What high capacity oil drain pan are you DIY guys using?

[jarwiebe]

Originally Posted by Roy1

My oil pan has 2 drain plugs I remove the top plug and remove 2 1/2 gallons then the bottom plug for the second 2 1/2 gallons the filter holds around a gallon poke a hole in it to lighten it before removing it.

^^^^
Same as what I do.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by BMGM37

You can actually install the Fumoto Valve before your first oil change, I did and didn’t lose a drop of oil. You remove your oil filler cap on the valve cover and secure a shop vacuum hose in the hole and secure and seal with duct tape. Turn the shop vac on and pull the drain plug and install the Fumoto valve, used this trick several time.

BMGM37,
Well, your procedure is right EXCEPT, there's more to it on various engines. For instance, on ours, which is like many, many CAT owners out there, you have an additional HOLE to seal up. And that is, the BLOWBY tube!!!!

Some diesel engines have closed crankcase ventilation systems and don't have a *Blowby* tube. I don't know how the *vacuum* trick will work on those. But, on ones WITH a blowby tube, like our C-7 CAT, the end of that tube, MUST be sealed up with duct tape and whatever. If you don't, guess what, you're gonna have a BIG MESS even with the vacuum system in place, on the oil fill port.
Scott

[Ray,IN]

I cut a 55G drum at 12" from the bottom for a drain pan, each inch of height holds slightly more than one gallon.
I will not use a Fumuto type drain valve, it would be the lowest point under the MH since the oil drain plug is in the crankcase bottom.

[426smartin]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

I cut a 55G drum at 12" from the bottom for a drain pan, each inch of height holds slightly more than one gallon.
I will not use a Fumuto type drain valve, it would be the lowest point under the MH since the oil drain plug is in the crankcase bottom.

55 gal drum is what i used also and set it on my creeper to pull it out. Have an old battery transfer pump to put it in the jugs.

[desertdd]

I use one very similar to this one. My Kitty cat holds 23 quarts so this one has plenty of capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/FloTool-Drain...SZKJ5C0XBRZQZC

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by Doug427

I'm thinking about putting one of those Fumoto valves on with the first oil change I do, but in reading on line I see that some guys claim that in some situations the valve hangs down and may contact the ground in certain incline, etc situations. I don't have the coach here to look, it's over at the storage yard, but I'll have to get under there and take a look to see how exposed and vulnerable to that it may be.

I installed a fumoto valve only found 2 problems, it takes twice as long to drain (34) quarts, and it can’t drain all the oil due to it raising drain hole.

[RKins]

I bought a 26qt oil container at Discount Auto back in 2016 and also added a fumoto style (EZ Drain) drain plug on the coach. I've had one on my 2006 Tundra since '06 and it is such a wonderful device.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

I installed a fumoto valve only found 2 problems, it takes twice as long to drain (34) quarts, and it can’t drain all the oil due to it raising drain hole.

Hey Roost,
Do ya warm up the engine prior to draining? I've done it with a cold engine and a warm engine. By far, the warm or hot engine is SERIOUSLY faster in that, that oil is like water when it drains. But, on a cold or luke warm engine, it's like 80 wt gear oil. Waaaaaay too long to drain. Letting even our engine, the C-7 idle 'till it gets warm, could take a week. So, I take it out and drive it for a few miles before draining. That makes the flow considerably smoother and faster.
Scott

[Pigman1]

Originally Posted by desertdd

I use one very similar to this one. My Kitty cat holds 23 quarts so this one has plenty of capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/FloTool-Drain...SZKJ5C0XBRZQZC

My pan looks similar to this, although I didn't get it on Amazon. Some cautions regardless of what you do: DO NOT get an open top pan. Oil weighs about 10 pounds a gallon so 24 qts weighs something over 65 pounds. Pulling that out from under the coach will make waves, and that means a mess. I have taken 3 serious hits on my oil pan, enough to put dents in. I won't use a Fumoto, but I do use this on my rig, my truck and former cars. https://www.uniquetruck.com/section/...nger+oil+drain Fram sold these years ago.

[ArtJoyce]

I use a NAPA drain pan about 16 quarts. But my cummings is about 18 quarts to drain.

On my cummings I have two drain plugs. A upper and lower one. My upper plug will drain about 11 quarts, which I first drain. The plug at the bottom of the engine oil pan drains the rest.

[nbluesky]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Hey Roost,
Do ya warm up the engine prior to draining? I've done it with a cold engine and a warm engine. By far, the warm or hot engine is SERIOUSLY faster in that, that oil is like water when it drains. But, on a cold or luke warm engine, it's like 80 wt gear oil. Waaaaaay too long to drain. Letting even our engine, the C-7 idle 'till it gets warm, could take a week. So, I take it out and drive it for a few miles before draining. That makes the flow considerably smoother and faster.
Scott

Should always drain it when the engine has been run and warmed up. It circulates the impurities and stuff that can settle. You want that to drain out when you change it!

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by nbluesky

Should always drain it when the engine has been run and warmed up. It circulates the impurities and stuff that can settle. You want that to drain out when you change it!

Agreed, you should always warm up a engine before a oil change.

Thing of a cup of hot chocolate that has set and cooled over time. When you pour it out, a layer of chocolate stay's in the bottom of the cup vs a stirred up cup that will completely drain out. An oil pan that is drained cold will build up a layer of sludge on the bottom of the pan over time.

[Ivylog]

I had to replace the aluminum oil pan on my ISX after cracking the corner going into a fuel station...so much for designing so that can’t happen. Wanted to save the 12 gallons of oil with 3K miles on it. Put a small shop vacuum on the crankcase vent tube so no loss of oil while installing the Fumoto valve on the side of the oil pan.

[HarryStone]

Originally Posted by nbluesky

Should always drain it when the engine has been run and warmed up. It circulates the impurities and stuff that can settle. You want that to drain out when you change it!

That just doesn't exist with modern filters and detergent oil. Any impurities and stuff that can settle has already been circulated thru the filter and removed. The only thing left is sludge, if your engine has any, and no amount of engine warming and oil heating will remove that. The only reason to warm up the engine is to make the oil flow better, it eases removal.