What should I do to prevent Diesel Fuel problems?

[sstehman]

We had an algae problem in August and it cost us quite a bit to resolve (plus a $450 towing bill) paid for by Good Sam Roadside Assistance. The fuel line got clogged from algae (a whole other story).

We now use this product faithfully - Killem by FPPF as recommended by the Cummins repair center. And we make sure the tank is always full.

Here is the link - http://www.fppf.com/products-by-name?task=catalog.product&id=20

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Mekanic

...
The best way to keep the air and water (that is in the air) out of you tank [to stop algae] is to keep the tank filled to the neck. ...

While I agree with that, nothing is perfect. LOL

There is no guarantee that bad fuel can't introduce algae, water, sludge and other undesirable elements into our coach's fuel system. The best we can do is pay attention to where we get our fuel as best we can and follow good practices such as keeping the fuel topped of during extended stays. Besides, it is no practicable to keep the tank topped off to the neck. I certainly don't stop every night when traveling just to do that.

Take for example B20. Cummins says that introducing B20 into your fuel can cause it to clean out stuff and send it to your fuel filter. Therefore the user is suppose to cut the fuel filter change interval in half for the next 2 replacements. That is probably more easily quantified if a user has a specific supplier and will get B20 all the time afterwards.

The problem is that when (I'm not sure "IF" is appropriate yet) B20 starts becoming the most prevalent fuel available that we will need to be prepared for the potential impact. Remember that one of the biggest concerns with B20 is it's cleaning action and how it can potential remove bad stuff in your fuel tank that other blends leave behind.

Consider this. You go to your favorite fuel place and they now serve B20. You know this, have studied it and are prepared for the extra fuel filter cycle. As long as you always get good fuel including B20 you should be able to follow the extra fuel filter replacement cycle and be done with it. The reason is (in a perfect world) is that if all the fuel you get is clean, the initial affect of B20 is on YOUR fuel lines and tank as the B20 is cleaning out YOUR fuel system. Once you get that done, back to normal filter changes. The problem is that as dealers add B20 to there fuel storage systems they are going through the same process. Yes...they should be filtering out the slug that B20 is pre-ported to be cleaning out but they will also probably have similar issues until B20 has done its "thing" and cleaned out most of THEIR fuel impurities.

I'm not cheer leading for B20. I'm just trying to make sure I understand its impact. If that means I will consider a more regimented fuel additive plan, then so be it. I'm certainly not going to beat anyone over the head with yes or no to any additives.

[HikerMichael]

Friends - I've been reading this thread with interest. New owner of a well maintained 2009 Jayco Seneca with a Duramax Diesel after years of towing with my F150. I filled the tank today as it's prepped for winter outdoor storage.

On my way to fill it, I stopped and bought a diesel supplement (Power Service) for anti-gelling. At the service station where I filled the coach, which is also one of the best reputation diesel shops in my area, the technician I spoke with said the diesel fuel was winter blend and already had "all the stuff in it" that I needed, including the anti-gel. In fact, I think it was treated already with Power Service, based on the sign.

A) I got about 48 gallons of winter blend in my 80 gallon tank, and the remaining 30 gallons is from this summer. Should I add the supplement at all? enough to treat 30 gallons? or enough to treat 80 gallons? I'm new at this, hoping to get it right this year so going forward is easier!

B) I don't think this has any biocide in it - I see mixed reactions on whether this is necessary. i'm one who tends to do a little extra and do the "unnecessary" things as long as they aren't harmful. Question for those in the "don't bother with the algae treatment" camp - is it harmful to the system? i.e. if I do it for peace of mind even if unneeded, no harm other than a few bucks, right?

Thanks all! We hit the road for our first extended trip as soon as my kids are done with school in June, so want to treat it right!

- Mike

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by qchair62

Get a good 2 micron add on filter like the one from GDP. Glacier Diesel Power | Diesel Performance Truck Parts | Dodge Cummins Ford Duramax | - Product Detail
Granted, it is for a Cummins but you can get them for almost any engine. You can never have too good a filtration system. The larger micron factory filter/water separator get the big stuff, the 2 micron gets everything else. Fuel pumps are expensive,

Be careful here.........starve a Cummins engine..........runs bad , no rpm's.....etc.
Starve a Cat.........(above highlighted)(Heui pump)
2 Micron is really low........Use the proper fuel filters speced by the engine manufacture and do not starve the engine by using to low of a micron rating thinking that this is better.

[CountryFit]

after letting it sit in parking yard for about two months, i went back there yesterday. my tank hadn't been full, about 80% so i thought better to fill it up. it was fired up on first crank. not sure whether the star tron enzyme made a difference, but might have been.

drove a few miles to a shell station (no bio blend), filled to neck, drove back and parked at the same spot. hopefully no worry for next 3 months

[DD788Snipe]

A friend of mine sent this to me sometime ago. It's from a Chevy & GMC Duramax forum but has good info on additives and worth the time to read. I add Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost whenever I take on fuel and Biobor JF when in storage. I'm going to change to Opti-Lube XPD after this next road trip.
Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum - View Single Post - Lift Pumps