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12-13-2012, 01:26 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Coast Florida
Posts: 12,995
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Ouch - my head hurts now. Thanks guys. The thought I had is this would be easier if you started with a base F53 chassis w/o a MH sitting on it. To see what is involved as practice - just thinking outside the box.
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12-13-2012, 02:03 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 98
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This guy is doing a 440 to Cummins conversion on an older Winnebago. Probably be a similar project on an F53.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/for...p?topic=6699.0
__________________
Retired USN Master Chief
1982-2005
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12-14-2012, 11:51 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 104
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On the newer ford f 53 they are basic 550 ford truck chassis. They are either wide frame or narrow frame trucks. It would appear a conversion to the new ford diesel would be a plug and play conversion. Because ford uses the diesel as a factory option.
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12-14-2012, 12:03 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,696
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Guy pulled int a space next to us a year or so ago driving an older GM Suburban towing a trailer - being a Dodge/Cummins owner myself, I immediately noticed the familiar Cummins sound. He had swapped in a '93 Cummins engine and tranny into his Suburban - reported a great power and MPG gain over the OEM gasser it replaced - the rig had also been otherwise restored,looked and sounded great!
Claimed the swap was pretty straight-forward and easy...
__________________
John Day....|'88 Winnebago Super Chief 27ft. Class A Eastern .....|'88 KIT model 240 24 ft. 5er Oregon ......|'02 Dodge/Cummins 2500 Quad Cab
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12-14-2012, 06:42 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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I was thinking Duramax due to the length. 4 cylinders long compared to 6.
My 5er was 19.2K total weight and my MH and 20' enclosed is 24K with both with full fluids. This has me wondering if a 5.9L Cummins would pulls the hills better or get better MPG than the current new V10.
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12-15-2012, 01:14 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kitts Hill, OH
Posts: 2,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
I was thinking Duramax due to the length. 4 cylinders long compared to 6.
My 5er was 19.2K total weight and my MH and 20' enclosed is 24K with both with full fluids. This has me wondering if a 5.9L Cummins would pulls the hills better or get better MPG than the current new V10.
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My total combined weight is right at 20K. It got 10 MPG on flat land running 65MPH and 9.0-9.5 in the colorado mountains. once I slid the fuel plate all the way forward it climbs the mountains and hills just fine now.
With the plate all the way forward it is supposed to be 230HP and 605TQ
It didn't seem to make any difference at all in the MPG.
Stock it was 190HP and 440? TQ .
as aero as a brick:
__________________
(RVM#26) THE U-RV 94 F-700/24 foot U-haul box home built RV
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12-15-2012, 03:02 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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I have my TST #11 plate all the way forward and the boost elbow closed. I can make 40 PSI boost on a hard 3rd or 4th gear run on flat ground even when not towing. When pulling big hills or strong head winds, I backed off the throttle when the EGTs got over 1250°s, which was around 60 MPH pulling the 5er up a big hill or 70 with a strong head wind.
What seemed strange was when I installed the plate or moved it forward, the first few test runs seemed to be an improvement, but later runs seemed to be less. Maybe just my seat of the pants torque meter getting re-calibrated or used to the power. I also put two clicks tighter in the governor springs. That got me to over 3k in lower gears, even when towing. Helpful with that big 3-4 gearing gap with my 5 spd. Mine started out as a 215 and the plate was supposed to uprate it to 280/680. With it all the way forward, I should be making 300/700. Never had it on a dyno. I did upgrade the clutch to a CON-O or F. Too lazy to dig out the receipt. There was no way I was going to tow with the stock auto. Once on the highway, it stayed in 5th gear except for that one hill into Yuma.
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12-15-2012, 07:36 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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I went from 10 to 9 MPG when they change to low sulfur diesel. Everything was the same, distance, weather, fuel station, speed and weight. The grade up Telegraph Pass into Yuma is 6%. That slowed my V10 down to 40 MPH.
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12-21-2012, 05:37 PM
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#38
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 79
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A Cummins is the choice to go with. Get a 1995 to 1998, with mechanical injectors. No electronics to worry about, and unless you live in California, less worry about emissions issues. Also the HP and torque output can be tinkered with quite a bit. The engine comes in at 969 lbs. so look at your front end carefully. If you get the Mopar version of the engine then put in the upgrade final drive nut in the tranny. when you modify the engine for output, it tends to beat the nut off of the final drive output shaft.
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12-21-2012, 07:07 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Cypress, Texas USA
Posts: 8,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgc44a
If you get the Mopar version of the engine then put in the upgrade final drive nut in the tranny. when you modify the engine for output, it tends to beat the nut off of the final drive output shaft.
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That only applies to the New Venture NV4500 5-speed manual gearbox.
Rusty
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12-25-2012, 08:37 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-B
Don't forget the added cost of changing to a diesel generator as well.
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you don'thave to change to a diesel generator. All you have to do is add gas tank for the generator. that is cheaper and actually easier to do, plus you would also no longer have the generator eating at your fule mileage.
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
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12-25-2012, 01:59 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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When they replaced my V10, they removed my front axle and other components, put a bridge over it, and lowered it from the inside.
For an engine/transmission transplant, you would have to do several trial fits for engine/transmission mounts, etc. Not sure if I would attempt it, even if I was much younger, and had a shop with the required equipment.
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