Wheel bearing adjustments

[almacd1814]

Originally Posted by TeJay

almacd1814,

While I don't disagree with your assessment you forgot this one aspect of vehicle (RV) services. Many of us do not trust shops to do work that we can do ourselves or may be able to do with just a bit of coaching. Some jobs like tire pressures, wheel bearings, chassis lubrication, replacing SB bushings, rotating tires (19.5" only) oil/filter changes, checking antifreeze, brake bleeding and I'm sure I've missed several other somewhat routine services as well.

Then there are many who have better or even great skills but perhaps never worked on truck type chassis like myself. I can do a brake job in all respects in my sleep but I've never dealt with a chassis of this size. Many of these posts gives me a bit more in depth information working on an RV chassis. Every, even small idea on special tools, tricks and ways to do this job better based on the heavier weights and special tools is always good information.

There's a very well done (MarvinG) step by step thread on here with excellent information and pics on a complete brake service on the Ford F-53 chassis.

Just in my case alone I've got better than 50 years experience working on and teaching you name it (house building, cement, marine, some aircraft, plumbing, mechanical/electrical, wood working etc,etc). Add everybody's experiences and you'd probably have better than 400 or more years combined. We all have certain skills in areas some are better on one type of repair than others and all the readers have to do is sort through what's posted and make their own decision. That's what makes this such a great FORUM. No one person usually has all the answers. Some are better than others and after enough reading one can usually know who to trust but don't skip posts because you might miss a good idea or bit of help.

I love this forum. In a way I'm still teaching which was a field I didn't aspire to initially but after about 3-5 years of experience my students told me I was darn good at it. My lesson plan was very simple: NEVER, NEVER treat my students the poor way I was treated all the way through college.

I do not disagree with you. My problem is the miss information coming from people that think they know what they are doing, but don't. Going to people that don't have a clue about mechanical repair. There are some things that should be left to the professionals, like air systems, brakes, suspension. Misinformation and faulty repairs are what kills people. Most of these people refer to "preload" but don't know what it means. There bearing end play is set to .003-.005, the bearing "preload" comes into play once the bearing heats up and expands to take the end play out of the equation. That is preload. Set the bearing up without end play and replace the spindle and hub assembly when the bearings seize up and the hub assembly parts company with the motorhome.

[Dominiqueb]

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Hello everybody
[Mod Edit]

I want to thank each of you who reached out and helped me. You give me hope in humankind. Be Happy we still have good people on Earth. [Mod Edit]

Have a wonderful Christmas

[alank]

Originally Posted by almacd1814

There bearing end play is set to .003-.005, the bearing "preload" comes into play once the bearing heats up and expands to take the end play out of the equation. That is preload. Set the bearing up without end play and replace the spindle and hub assembly when the bearings seize up and the hub assembly parts company with the motorhome.

Sorry, but I have to disagree. If you start out with .003" - .005" of end play, you have a loose (relaxed) bearing, there is no preload. The bearing may heat up during its normal operation and develop a normal operating tightness, but that's all after the fact and not preload

A preloaded bearing starts out with its components under pressure before it is put into its normal operation. That is preload.

Isn't it wonderful to have various opinions.

[Spk64]

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[Cobra Mini]

Just make sure that when you have the vehicle up on a jack make sure you have a jackstand under it and when you grab the tire to check for freeplay make sure that you NEVER EVER PUT YOUR HANDS AT THE TWELVE and Six oclock position always 130 and 730 oclock or even 3 and 9 because if for some unknown reason or another the weight of the vehicle drops down and your hands are at 6 and twelve you will probably lose your fingers or get hurt pretty badly, Be safe and good luck.

[mackwrench]

......whew, been a long thread!

~Wheel bearing ADJUSTMENT to taper roller bearings is measured in thousands as ...... end play. A human hair is like 0.002 so it's best practice to measure the end play with a dial indicator.

If one follows the recommended procedure, a dial indicator may not be needed.

However, many folks make the adjustment by hand, and that's OK, maybe their dad, or grandpa showed them and ain't never had a issue on a boat trailer, pick up or the like.....but on heavy truck, large RV etc...it's a critical adjustment. So hopefully do the right thing. The final adjustment depends on the spindle threads per inch.



~PRELOAD that's applied to taper roller bearings is measured by the amount of effort to turn the component, like a rear axle ring and pinion bearing or transmission shaft bearings, usually measured in inch-pounds.
A spring loaded tool Is used to measure the effort it takes to rotate the bearings. (Looks like something you weigh a fish with)

Instead of dicing it out, just Google RP618

[TeJay]

mackwrench,

I preferred to use the phrase, (Little to no play) when checking for the bearing adjustment. Yes, there's still the thought of what is little to no play? If the bearing expansion clearance is .001 to .003 and a human hair is around .002. (IMHO) I believe it becomes somewhat obvious what is meant.

I always turned the spindle nut out just a bit until play was felt then slowly tightened it until the play just barely disappeared.

[mackwrench]

Originally Posted by TeJay

mackwrench,

I preferred to use the phrase, (Little to no play) when checking for the bearing adjustment. Yes, there's still the thought of what is little to no play? If the bearing expansion clearance is .001 to .003 and a human hair is around .002. (IMHO) I believe it becomes somewhat obvious what is meant.

I always turned the spindle nut out just a bit until play was felt then slowly tightened it until the play just barely disappeared.

Ain't nothing wrong with that!

[mackwrench]

Here's a good read from a respected industry trade magazine:



https://www.truckinginfo.com/1013561...006G3433078G4O