Wheels off ground when using auto level jacks. What's the definitive consensus?

[Nanci]

Our owners states that suspending the wheels off ground is not good. When on an unlevel site we will auto level and if the wheels are off ground my husband puts boards under them while I manually lift the motorhome jacks just a bit and then slightly lower them again to have the whees on the boards.

[michealwhela]

I like to keep all wheels on the ground but many RV parks and campgrounds do not understand the meaning of level. I always chock my coach wheels on the ground or not. To depend on the parking brake or transmission to always work is asking for trouble. I have had front wheels off the ground sometimes and rear wheels off on others. If it is only for a night or two I don't worry about it. Longer term I crib block the offending wheel (s). Never had a issue but chocking the wheels has prevented movement. My rule is if I park it I chock it when I stay in it. Nothing worse than a rolling coach when you don't want it to.

[Whitesoulpat]

Originally Posted by StarBlocked

I'm on my first big trip in my 2017 Thor Outlaw 37BG. I'm a stupid newb who isn't nearly as prepared as she thought she'd be, so it's been "fun."

One issue I keep encountering is campgrounds with extremely unlevel parking spots. I'm almost every single one, my auto-leveling hydraulics have had to lift the wheels off the ground.

A neighbor at one park said that's totally fine for one night, but that just doesn't feel right. The manual is silent on this issue (and countless others, but that's for another day). Online research shows mixed thoughts, but mostly seems to say it's a bad idea.

Is there any definitive answer? Does the make/model affect the decision?

It's a big deal, because one thing the manual does clearly say is that I can't extend the slide out without the RV leveled. It's been extremely uncomfortable making my whole brood cram in without the extra space from the slide out.

On a related note, is there any way to get the auto leveler to be more "efficient"? Here's what I mean. I've noticed that instead of making the minimum adjustments necessary to get the RV level, it just keeps going and going until it's way too high. For example, if my left side is too low, it will start by lifting the left side. Great! But then it lifts the right side, too? Then it keeps going back and forth until the whole thing is level, but way too high, and it could have been level several inches lower.

I've considered switching to manual, but it doesn't have a "bubble" for me to use, and I'd be uncomfortable eyeballing a hardware store level. Besides, I paid for an RV with auto level, and I'd really like to use it!

Thanks in advance for any and all help. I'm new to the RV world, and to this forum. I'm hoping I won't have to ask so many questions soon, but in the meantime I'm grateful for such a helpful bunch of people. Thanks!

Same leveling situation I have. It has worked maybe three times. Gateway tells me the rear sensor may have shifted. I haven’t addressed it yet.

[botiemad]

I've considered switching to manual, but it doesn't have a "bubble" for me to use, and I'd be uncomfortable eyeballing a hardware store level. Besides, I paid for an RV with auto level, and I'd really like to use it!
Here's an easy way to do it. I carry a short bubble level, the kind carpenters carry. The most level area in the coach is usually the kit counter. I put the level there, perfectly leveled the coach, then installed two inexpensive bubble levels on a hard surface where I can see them while manually leveling the coach. Follow the procedure in your manual for this. You are correct about the auto level systems, they play around forever until the coach has been tweaked every way possible. Don't worry about the wheels off the ground. Almost always, the F&R stabilizer bars will prevent excess travel. It also helps to dump the air prior to leveling.

[Stanley.13]

We had the same issue. We called the jack manufacturer and they put us though a process to reset the computer, took 5 minutes and is well now!

[Nodigg]

Anyone else use the door open to level the coach? I use the dash leveling lights for my manual leveling but then with the door open I make my final adjustments so the door does not swing forward or rearward, (in or out) when open and loose from the latch. ( I have no shock absorber on mine)

[RV1597]

It is not a good idea to have the wheels off the ground at any time. In addition to a reduction in stability, the tires also provide a grounding function in inclement weather. You should have a manual which explains how to "re-zero" the auto function. A post type level from any hardware store will help you. Place it on the counter and manually level the unit then reset the auto level function. It's actually an easy process and should be in the manual for the unit. Occasionally you will have to do the process. After you do it one time you will see how easy it is. Good luck!

[TeJay]

Still not sure how you can accurately eyeball a level on a counter top or in the center of your floor while leveling. My leveling system is just below my right hand easily reached from the drivers seat. That's also where I've installed the two bubble levels easily seen so I can manually level or watch the auto level do its thing.

Also agree the leveling system works best when it's within 1/2 a bubble from level. That may be 2 degrees I don't know.

Oh well life is about choices so make it as easy or difficult as you wish.

[Edingale]

When I first started RVing, I had a F53 frame gasser. One time I pulled into a parking lot because I had a flat tire. I put a portable jack under the wheel with the flat and changed the tire. Just as I got one nut back on, the jack began sinking into the asphalt. I madly rushed to get the other nuts back on just before the RV rolled forward. Whew! Close call.

Fast forward to current MH: When I first got my '98 Navigator (DP), I used the onboard leveling jacks to change flats. Found out later that the shock mounts were broken. Big bill to have new mounts welded on. Fortunately, HR had run a campaign on replacing the shock mounts due to insufficient weld on original build. -- Currently experiencing windshield separation on driver's side. Repair shop says abnormal flexing of frame causes this. Also had slideout stick a time or two in open position and had a devil of a time getting it back in.

Putting it all together, I now manually level my coach with the airbags inflated and the coach nearly level to begin with, then deflate the airbags. Then on departure, inflate the airbags before raising the jacks in order to minimize frame flexing and NEVER raise a wheel off the ground. I carry a 20 ton portable hydraulic jack just for emergency, but call road service and let them change flat tires.

[daletcummins]

Just another major concern with raising the tires off ground is you've surpassed the pressure rating of the oil seals in your Jack's and you will have leaking jacks with the warranty period. Rebuilding leveling jack can be very expensive.

[daletcummins]

Always bring enough leveling blocks to get you close. Then use your auto leveling to finish off. But never raise vehicle off ground.

[daletcummins]

Never extend large slides when not level . It causes the guides to over load and often break as the did on my 30 ft slide on my 40 ft Discovery
If not level it can even roll the slide wall seals out from the wall .

[TeJay]

I don't buy that the leveling jacks can't take a full RV load for extended periods of time. If they can safely lift 3 to 4 times the weight of the RV why couldn't or wouldn't they be able to handle 1/2 of the RV weight if two wheels were completely off the ground??

Don't get me wrong. I don't like lifting wheels off the ground and I try hard not to but come on. I also understand that no hydraulic seal will last for ever but we have millions maybe billions of hydraulic jacks all over many, many, many commercial and public industries.

I taught HS automotive class for 35 years and in all that time had fewer than 5 jacks fail and when they did it was always a slow leak with plenty of advanced notice because of fluid leaking on the ground around the failing jack. We always required the use of safety stands.

[Alaskabev]

We also have a Outlaw. First off, we were told to NEVER have tires off the ground. The rig is too heavy to be supported by just the levelers (ours are Lippert brand) Therefore we carry planks to shove under the tires so the tires are resting on something. We have come to the conclusion that the auto leveling is only good (most of the time) for asphalt and cement pad parking. It was a great marketing ploy that we fell for after rv’ing in a class C for 20 years with the orange blocks for leveleiers. Otherwise we do manual. I got online and found the directions for manual and printed them off and put in our book we carry with us. We purchased a simple tiny square self leveler for placement on the floor and of course my hubby swears by the refrigerator mode which is to open the door and If find it stays open then rig is level.
Glad to hear we aren’t the only ones that had this problem and concern.
LOVE amour OUTLAW . It’s a 2013 .