Which Class A MHs handle the best - and why?

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by CountryB

Is that product similar to (same as) the Sumo springs everyone is recommending?

No, totally different concept.

[koda59]

We started out in. 2005 Georgie Boy Landau 35 ft. I did the mod to the front suspension, put anti sway brace support on back, firestone air ride and still had the sway when trucks passed.
We now have a 2008 41 ft Four Winds Mandalay with 4 slides. It has the Cummins 400 diesel engine with a jake brake, not a engine exhaust brake. With my gas and my diesel I average 8 mpg. Depending how much traveling or sitting would depend on which RV is best for you. Another thing to consider is if you will be towing a car.
Some gas class a have a 3500 pound hitch and others have a 5000 pound hitch.
Which ever way you go my recommendation is buy the floor plan that you like the best. Second get as many slides you can afford.
Third get all 4 corners weighed after you have it loaded the way you want.
You might want to have the alignment checked. If it is a diesel have the ride height checked.
If you buy a diesel I would recommend the side radiator vice the one in the back.
If it has a freight liner frame I recommend you take the freight liner 2 day course in Gaffney.
Check the age of the tires that they are not over 7 years old.

[A Traveler]

Originally Posted by NC25T

...If a gas RV has a few extra feet back there the actual weight behind the rear axel is still a fraction of what a DP has.

That may be true, but it's not the weight behind the rear axle that is the problem, it's the length. The longer overhang provides more area for crosswinds to act on. It also provides more leverage for that wind to cause the wandering and "tail wagging the dog" syndrome that plagues coaches with a long rear overhang.

Picture this...a 3-foot long 2x4 with rollers at each end, attached within a few inches of the ends. That will be a very stable "scooter."

Now take one of the rollers and picture it moved to a point almost in the middle of the 2x4's length. That's not going to be anywhere near as stable as the first "scooter." It will be very easy to change the direction of that scooter with some sideways pressure behind the rear roller.

The exact same principle applies to a motor home chassis. Keep the wheels close to the ends and the chassis is stable. Move one set of wheels more towards the middle of the chassis length and you get an unstable chassis that is a "white knuckle drive" in any kind of wind.

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by CountryB

I'm in the market for a Class A. This will be my first. My wife and I are looking for a 32 to 36ft from about 2010 to 2015. (based on the prices I've seen on RV Trader, we can't afford newer than 2015).

I've been reading some threads about MHs not handling well. Wandering, getting pushed by passing Semis, etc. Having to put a lot of concentration into keeping it centered on the road, Etc.

What do I need to look for to know if the MH I'm considering buying will handle well? Obviously I can't drive all the various MHs to know which is okay. Those of you that have owned/driven multiple models may be able to help.

I know that within the same model there can be different handle characteristics due to worn parts and mis-aligned front ends. But assuming the MH is in good shape, alignment is correct, and tire pressure is right - is there anything else to consider?

1) Should I stick with the upper-tier brands or better known brands (like Tiffin, Newmar, Winnebago, etc.)? Any others?
2) Is a MH with "air suspension" better?
3) Do they handle better if heavier, or shorter or longer?
4) Is there a specific chassis (like a Freightliner) that is more desirable than another?
5) Does tire size matter?
6) Is a rear-engine diesel better than a front-engine gas (regarding weight distribution with regards to handling)?
7) Do I need to look for a model with a steering stabilizer (if yes, any specific type)?

Newer isn't always better and IMO, it's quality first and then age for fitting one's budget.
As for handling, along with driver skills, first and foremost, it's how much overhang there is behind the rear wheels for the tail to wag the dog. There's other factors as well, such as a long wheelbase, a tag axle and the type of chassis in general.
Naturally, there's no comparison with a big and heavy, air ride DP, which usually takes care of most poor handling factors, that might otherwise be apparent.
Having said all this and as I've said before, I've had no complaints with any of them, we've owned.

[Kro1957]

I have and currently drive for 2 different carriers. Some tag, some without, some front end Diesel, some D/P., some with bags and again some without. I think you get the picture.
Now, if I am on a 500 trip with a group I like the D/P, tag with air bags, just the best ride. I put it on 75 and go. I can do the very same trip with a front end diesel, single, it is still very stable but just not quite as smooth.
And with the small buses, they are all front end diesel and they also just not as smooth as a air bag ride. Many of those buses I am in all day long for 8 hours of driving.
With that said, I drive professionally so it is a every day thing for me. Now, shift gears to my driving my personal D/P. I only do 200 - 250 mile legs. Yes, I have done 700 a day but the norm is much less. I have a D/P, Freightliner Chassis with huge air bag suspension. It's quiet and rides great. Oh, a tag would be perhaps a little more stable for the steering but I have no problem with passing, tracking what so ever. We can easily do a 250 mile leg and I am not tired at all. However, I am not driving for hire, this is pleasure and any concerns at all are with the other drivers and their rigs. Not mine.
One last thing I might mention, is I do enjoy having the engine exhaust brake. Even in the largest of Motorcoaches I drive and in my coach, it is a great feature.

[NC25T]

Originally Posted by A Traveler

That may be true, but it's not the weight behind the rear axle that is the problem, it's the length. The longer overhang provides more area for crosswinds to act on. It also provides more leverage for that wind to cause the wandering and "tail wagging the dog" syndrome that plagues coaches with a long rear overhang.

Picture this...a 3-foot long 2x4 with rollers at each end, attached within a few inches of the ends. That will be a very stable "scooter."

Now take one of the rollers and picture it moved to a point almost in the middle of the 2x4's length. That's not going to be anywhere near as stable as the first "scooter." It will be very easy to change the direction of that scooter with some sideways pressure behind the rear roller.

The exact same principle applies to a motor home chassis. Keep the wheels close to the ends and the chassis is stable. Move one set of wheels more towards the middle of the chassis length and you get an unstable chassis that is a "white knuckle drive" in any kind of wind.

I get what your saying however I think there are other variables involved then just the overhang

When I was RV shopping a few years back i felt the RV that was the longest drove the best. No clue how the rear overhang compared vs the shorter coaches. Also thought there was a big difference between the same model RV one on a Ford chassis and the other workhorse, drove a workhorse Bounder 38P & Ford Pace Arrow 38P as well as a few shorter Fleetwood coaches, I can't recall the models. Back then (2009) I felt a pretty significant difference between those two chassis how they dealt with wind, uneven roads etc, it was more noticeable comparing the workhouse 38P vs a 33-36ft Ford Bounder which again I can't recall the models.

A chassis where the wheels are pushed out to be close to the ends of that chassis, if that chassis isn't stiff (thus flexes) vs longer overhangs and stiffer chassis.... it can also result in those white knuckle situations.

Thus to me just looking at the overhang isn't a good way to determine road manners. Test drive is the only way

[awol50]

Originally Posted by CountryB

Thanks for the great replies and info.

We are most interested now in the Tiffin Allegro RED (33AA).
and like the Winnebago Forza 36G. I hear Newmar is very good too but not seeing any of those on RV Trader in my price range.

From my research, I want a diesel (340HP) with Exhaust brake and Allison transmission.

Price range is $100K (maybe $120 max).

I have a 2016 Forza 36g. Drives well. Solid steering feel and brake feel. Notice very little to no side push when getting passed or passing. Run 105/95 f/r psi in tires.

[F53Challenge]

A TRAVELER. I agree regarding impact overhang has on handling. My coach is a white knuckler. Do you know of a site that lists the stats for various coaches of wheelbase divided by length? I have been doing the math and research for various coaches, takes too much time. If I had a list of those coaches that rated say 54% or greater, I'd rent one take it camping and decide it it is time to make a change. thanks.

[robertkathy]

which ever you get, a steering stabilizer will help if you are going to tow get a wdh with a stabilizer try to get 22.5 tires.

drive safe and limit the hours at each time.

i never drove an rv til after i payed for mine in full (never owned a truck larger then a ford ranger) my first drive was friday night rush hour though phx

i am happy with my winne adventurer 38t even with the trailer

[Pmiller1]

I've had my rig since 2014 thought at first it rode and drove ok but the last few months ive done some tweeking and think I now have the best riding driving in wind rain ruff roads rig on the road .But the 450 mile day would wear me out. list of things ive done.
1 . replaced front four shocks with bilstins
2. instaled the safety + steering stablizer system
3. instaled air pressure stabilizers on rear tires ( crossfire system)
4. I run 110 in the front 100 rears


I ran 900 miles two days with wind gust rain hills and ruff roads was not tierd at all... and the road was bad too lol hit one area wife said all 6 wheels were off the ground !!!

I cannot believe how much diff it has made in my rig !! I don't think I can make it drive any better now !!!

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by CountryB

I'm in the market for a Class A. This will be my first. My wife and I are looking for a 32 to 36ft from about 2010 to 2015. (based on the prices I've seen on RV Trader, we can't afford newer than 2015).

I've been reading some threads about MHs not handling well. Wandering, getting pushed by passing Semis, etc. Having to put a lot of concentration into keeping it centered on the road, Etc.

What do I need to look for to know if the MH I'm considering buying will handle well? Obviously I can't drive all the various MHs to know which is okay. Those of you that have owned/driven multiple models may be able to help.

I know that within the same model there can be different handle characteristics due to worn parts and mis-aligned front ends. But assuming the MH is in good shape, alignment is correct, and tire pressure is right - is there anything else to consider?

1) Should I stick with the upper-tier brands or better known brands (like Tiffin, Newmar, Winnebago, etc.)? Any others?
2) Is a MH with "air suspension" better?
3) Do they handle better if heavier, or shorter or longer?
4) Is there a specific chassis (like a Freightliner) that is more desirable than another?
5) Does tire size matter?
6) Is a rear-engine diesel better than a front-engine gas (regarding weight distribution with regards to handling)?
7) Do I need to look for a model with a steering stabilizer (if yes, any specific type)?

Air ride - DP - Longer - Heavier helps
Good Tires - Proper pressure
Front end Aligned

Then just need to love to drive - It's a Beautiful Country, get off the worn out Interstates and Enjoy the Drive.

[Ivylog]

Originally Posted by Busskipper

[Then just need to love to drive - It's a Beautiful Country, get off the worn out Interstates and Enjoy the Drive.

You need to stop building and enjoy the ride. As for the Interstates, I was impressed with how good I-70 was from east of Denver to St. Louis (850 miles) last month. There is not much in the middle of the country I need to see again.

The best handling DP are those with 10 airbags...Prevost, Newell, Foretravel, and the big Monaco/Beaver/HR’s. Does not included the NEW Monaco’s that are not on the Roadmaster 10 airbags chassis.

A tag axle makes a huge improvement in handling and the outboard airbags keep it for leaning without sway bars.

I would not add a steering stabilize unless it’s adjustable on the fly. I unhooked the Safe-T-Plus someone added to my Navigator until I made it adjustable.

[CampDaven]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

You need to stop building and enjoy the ride. As for the Interstates, I was impressed with how good I-70 was from east of Denver to St. Louis (850 miles) last month. There is not much in the middle of the country I need to see again.

The best handling DP are those with 10 airbags...Prevost, Newell, Foretravel, and the big Monaco/Beaver/HR’s. Does not included the NEW Monaco’s that are not on the Roadmaster 10 airbags chassis.

A tag axle makes a huge improvement in handling and the outboard airbags keep it for leaning without sway bars.

I would not add a steering stabilize unless it’s adjustable on the fly. I unhooked the Safe-T-Plus someone added to my Navigator until I made it adjustable.

Ditto, except I’ve never needed a steer stabilizer.
Monaco RR10S is still superb

[Ivylog]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

I would not add a steering stabilize unless it’s adjustable on the fly. I unhooked the Safe-T-Plus someone added to my Navigator until I made it adjustable.

Originally Posted by CampDaven

Ditto, except I’ve never needed a steer stabilizer...Monaco RR10S is still superb

I would not have added a steering stabilizer (it had already been added) and after 14 years and 85K miles a RR10S did not need one. With one I noticed it made driving tiring under anything but perfect conditions...no wind and a flat road so I disconnected it.

Here is my DIY, less than $100 adjustable steering stabilizer mount:http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/maki...le-451209.html