|
|
06-10-2014, 04:44 PM
|
#15
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 472
|
Any broken bolts on the front of the engine should be easy for a professional to remove.
It's the head and manifold bolts that are most difficult to access and remove. Accessory bolts - easy peasy!
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
06-10-2014, 05:42 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Aiken,SC
Posts: 1,025
|
I certainly wouldn't replace an engine because of a couple of broken bolts.Like previously mentioned before,if I couldn't do it myself I would take it to a good repair shop and them remove the broken bolts.and if they can't do it either,then I would have the bracket or whatever it is,welded to the block.
__________________
Good Sam Life Members
Served in U.S.A.F.
|
|
|
06-10-2014, 05:50 PM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,903
|
If the motor is still in the MH, taking it to a machine shop might be a problem. I suggest calling around to locate a machinist that is willing to bring his tools to your MH and extract the bolts or drill them out and re-tap the holes. I certainly would not spend the money to replace the block before having a machinist try to remove the bolts.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
|
|
|
06-10-2014, 06:15 PM
|
#18
|
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 46
|
I would buy a new rv. My answer to the original question.
|
|
|
06-10-2014, 11:05 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Orting, WA
Posts: 222
|
broken bolts are generally a piece of cake. The easiest way is to place a nut over the top of the broken off bolt. You can do that even if its even with the surrounding surface. Then weld the nut to the broken off stud/bolt. If its small enough, you can do it with a wire feed, but in general a tig welder makes the job easy. I generally just hold the nut in place with the tip of a screwdriver and then touch the tig torch to the broken stud enough to stick the nut to it. Then fill up the nut with steel rod and you can just turn it out when it cools. Make sure you wait until it cools some. They normally come out quite easy because of all the heat you used.
__________________
Toni Froehling
2005 Country Coach Inspire 51431
Orting, WA
|
|
|
06-10-2014, 11:22 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Commercial Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 127
|
courtjester:
Great suggestion. I'll include that idea the next time I break off a bolt. Thanks!
Erich
__________________
Erich Weinberg and Kathryn Whiting Five Star DEF
|
|
|
06-11-2014, 09:07 AM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 977
|
I'd say 95% of bolts that we get in at the shop break due to the threads being seized in the hole. If you are lucky and it didn't break off flush with the surface you may be able to use a stud puller but usually the bolt just snaps again at the surface. If it is seized usually nothing is going to take them out but time and a drill. Can't tell you how many people have brought this type of work to the shop with some sort of easy out busted off in the bolt. If the bolt is seized in the hole an easy out is not going to work. Not an easy job at all especially when the engine is installed. May be impossible to drill out while still in the vehicle even with a 90 degree drill, access sometimes is just impossible. Also unless your very good at it you will need to helicoil the hole after you drill it.
|
|
|
06-11-2014, 09:14 AM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 2,971
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBro
does it cost more to buy a new rv or to buy a new engine and have someone put the new one in?
its a ford mallard 88 with a v8 ford e350 460 engine
I have to bolts broken off in the block and extractors won't work and im not ballsy enough to retap it.any tips would help to fixing my problem id rather not have to buy a new engine or rv.
|
My thoughts are to just repair it and it's not like the engine is completely shot. Even with a new engine in a nice coach, you'd be lucky to realize $3K for it in a sale and would be giving it away in a trade.
__________________
07 Revolution LE 40E_1 1/2 Baths_Spartan MM Chassis_06 400HP C9 CAT_ Allison 3000
Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (SOLD)
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|