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Old 08-04-2021, 06:26 PM   #15
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Why I use the Bedding and Glazing compound, it doesn't "set up", glue, or "dry". Specified as the correct material to use along with a rubber gasket on many a 1960's car back in the day and still is.
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Old 08-04-2021, 10:25 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Unplanned Tourist View Post
It's not a solid glue. Butyl is flexible, and remains so. It's more of a sealent than an adhesive, so the windshield can move to some extent.
Please call some class a glass shops before gluing both sides. Usually the rubber is glued to the frame. I owned a bodyshop for most of my life. Even on cars we didn't glue the glass to rubber. Sometimes a needle gun was used just under the rubber if there was a water leak.
As far as big windshields I always sublet them, labor is really cheap compared to the price of the glass.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:22 AM   #17
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Please call some class a glass shops before gluing both sides. Usually the rubber is glued to the frame. I owned a bodyshop for most of my life. Even on cars we didn't glue the glass to rubber. Sometimes a needle gun was used just under the rubber if there was a water leak.
As far as big windshields I always sublet them, labor is really cheap compared to the price of the glass.
You are correct. We never put it against the glass, only the window opening. The Peterbilt cabs were pretty stiff, so the glass to rubber seal was usually good enough without any sealer.
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Old 08-05-2021, 10:42 AM   #18
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Thanks all. Using butyl makes sense. They sell it as "tape" (like a flexible dowel) which I've used for other things before, or you can get it in a caulk tube.

At this point I think I'm leaving the seal alone. Also it's a single seal so I would have to pull both sides of the glass to replace it. That being said, I think I'll pull the glass, make sure the groove is good and clean, and replace it with no sealant. If I have any issues after that I can put some butyl caulk in there.

My price on the glass is $970. The price to have the shop do it is $2000. I'm doing it myself.
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