Windshield Frame Reinforcement

[GreggLegal]

I've been working on a 35-foot 1996 Pace Arrow Vision. The right side windshield popped out slightly. I got it pushed back in but the technician said this is a common problem even on RVs that are not this old. The only permanent solution I'm finding online is to reinforce the frame with steel or aluminum square bar or something similar that might be easier to bend to fit the frames precisely. I am leery of cutting into the corners on the interior, around each windshield, because wiring is probably going through them. But the reinforcement needs to be as close to the exterior fiberglass as possible, and it would make sense to hide it on the inside. Has anybody got a methodology for doing this project efficiently without damaging anything? Would be better to put the reinforcement on the outside and then just cover it with more fiberglass? How would I attach the reinforcements to the fiberglass without the fasteners pulling through the fiberglass?

[jacwjames]

Monaco coach had a problem with windshield cracking on several model/year coaches.

They devised a Halo Kit to reinforce the windshield area but also a jig to check clearances between windshield and frame.



Do a search for Halo Kit and read up on it. Might give you some ideas.


All the repairs they did were on the inside as adding anything to the outside would be unsightly.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Would be better to put the reinforcement on the outside and then just cover it with more fiberglass? How would I attach the reinforcements to the fiberglass without the fasteners pulling through the fiberglass?

You reinforce it by adding to the steel frame that supports the front cap, preventing the rectangular windshield box from twisting, shifting, or skewing within that framework. The fiberglass is just a a beauty skin and not strong enough to support or stiffen anything.


I owned a '96 Southwind (badge sister to the Pace) for 3 years and experienced the problem you describe. The windshield glass shifted/lifted just enough to allow a slight leak. A glass shop was able to re-seat and the problem went away. Probably would have returned from time to time, but I traded it for a new 2002 NRV Dolphin - and later experienced the same problem on rough Alaska roads!


The basic problem is that the chassis aren't very rigid and the front cap assembly moves around a lot, pretty much floating. That movement eventually loosens the windshield in the frame and a corner pops out a bit. Stiffening that cap frame and it's windshield cage can help.

[Dutch Star Don]

Before you go too crazy, windshields in that era were held in by the rubber gasket. Nowadays, they're glued in. Often, the repair for your issue is to have the windshield reinstalled by gluing it in, still using the gasket.

Unless, you know the windshield has continuously popped out over the years, your repair may be simple, glue it in. Maybe talk to a few more people about that era coach.

[GreggLegal]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Monaco ... devised a Halo Kit to reinforce the windshield area but also a jig to check clearances between windshield and frame.

Thank you! According to https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/halo-kit-392127.html, "it took ... the better part of two days with two techs working on it...."! Dang! That makes it sound like it would not be worth doing if I have to pay someone else to do it, plus pay for the kit. Eight days times four is 32 hours, at $100 is $3200 -- if I could even find someone to do the work for that rate. My RV seems to be worth only $5000-$7,000 despite a bunch of work I've put into it.


Fortunately I have a welder friend who lives on the property where the RV is parked. Maybe he could do the welding cheaply enough and I can do everything else. I would not trust the vehicle on a road trip because if the windshield falls all the way out, there goes another $1500-$2000.


Replying to the other commenter about gluing the glass into the rubber, several people have told me that if I do that it will pose a risk of cracking or breaking the windshield. The rubber gasket on my RV is designed to let the windshield flex a little. I wish I knew how the glued models keep that from happening. But maybe they the only way any of them keep that from happening is at the cost of cracking the windshield if the coach twists too much.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by GreggLegal

Replying to the other commenter about gluing the glass into the rubber, several people have told me that if I do that it will pose a risk of cracking or breaking the windshield. The rubber gasket on my RV is designed to let the windshield flex a little. I wish I knew how the glued models keep that from happening. But maybe they the only way any of them keep that from happening is at the cost of cracking the windshield if the coach twists too much.

The rubber still allows the windshield to flex, but keeps the windshield adhered to the rubber, not the frame. Unless you know the coach has had a history of popping the windshield, your fix is glue. If you can say it's popped out on three of the last six trips, then you need more work.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Don't make this problem harder than it needs to be. As Don says, windshields of that era were vulnerable to pop-out, but only in a few cases would it be a common event. And a bit of caution when leveling or maneuvering in tight quarters goes a long way toward avoiding the issue. And when it happens, it's usually not difficult for a glass shop to reset it. I'd not attempt any drastic solutions unless the windshield was popping frequently.


Is this Pace one of the ones with a 3-point leveling system? One key to avoiding windshield problems with those is to always put the single front jack down first and lift the front about 3 inches before putting the two rear jacks down. That lets the front end float rather than getting twisted by the pressure of the rear jacks. No twist pretty much eliminates the stress on the windshield frame.

[GreggLegal]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

The rubber still allows the windshield to flex, but keeps the windshield adhered to the rubber, not the frame. Unless you know the coach has had a history of popping the windshield, your fix is glue. If you can say it's popped out on three of the last six trips, then you need more work.

Thank you for that.

What kind of adhesive would you use?

[GreggLegal]

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

... a bit of caution when leveling or maneuvering in tight quarters goes a long way toward avoiding the issue. And when it happens, it's usually not difficult for a glass shop to reset it. I'd not attempt any drastic solutions unless the windshield was popping frequently. Is this Pace one of the ones with a 3-point leveling system? One key to avoiding windshield problems with those is to always put the single front jack down first and lift the front about 3 inches before putting the two rear jacks down. That lets the front end float rather than getting twisted by the pressure of the rear jacks. No twist pretty much eliminates the stress on the windshield frame.

Very good tip about how to use the three-point leveling system -- that is indeed what it has. It might also help to put enough boards or plastic panels down in such a way as to minimize how much the jacks need to come down to level the coach.
Even if only slight dislodgments are likely, the question is how far away would I be from a glass shop when it happens, what will the weather be like, etc.?

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by GreggLegal

Very good tip about how to use the three-point leveling system -- that is indeed what it has. It might also help to put enough boards or plastic panels down in such a way as to minimize how much the jacks need to come down to level the coach.
Even if only slight dislodgments are likely, the question is how far away would I be from a glass shop when it happens, what will the weather be like, etc.?

Window installers use a black adhesive that is super sticky. I don't recall the name of the product, but I bought a tube at a glass shop once. In regard to using it, you need to let a window installer do it in combo with the rubber insert.

My 2005 Monaco Diplomat had the three-point jack system. Monaco's instructions said to lower the front jack and make sure you get some lift, like 3" as noted above by Gary roamer. Even in automatic mode, the system put the front down first. Then level side to side with the rears.