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Old 10-27-2020, 03:07 PM   #1
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Winterize with no chemicals?

How to proper a winterize the plumbing in my RV without using any chemicals?

I guess I should put some air pressure on the pipes?

Someone knows the proper procedure where to connect the air pressure hose?
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:31 PM   #2
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Do a search for Camco Blowout Plug. It's an air fitting that screws into your water hose or supply port. Be sure you lower the air pressure from your compressor to less than 50psi.
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:37 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dominiqueb View Post
How to proper a winterize the plumbing in my RV without using any chemicals?

I guess I should put some air pressure on the pipes?

Someone knows the proper procedure where to connect the air pressure hose?
You connect to the city water port, with the adapter shown.

The first thing you'll probably need to do is set your water heater bypass valves and then drain the water tanks (both fresh and hot). Gravity is probably good enough got both--read your hot water tank manufacturer's manual.

Then with low pressure air (I use only 30 psi, which is lower than others), blow out the hot and cold lines working from the closest fixture to the furthest, and then go back again through them all just to be sure. Don't forget the exterior shower, toilet and any devices you have that use water. Ice makers and clothes washers may require special procedures. Then reset your water heater bypass valves.

Some people run the pump to clear it. I would instead just pump a small amount of antifreeze into it with the siphon hose, but that ruins your "no chemical" rule.

Oh, and you will need antifreeze for traps (including the shower) as well as the brown and grey tanks.
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:48 PM   #4
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Thank you so much!
Your answer is perfect!

Thank you sir!
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:01 PM   #5
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Use an air regulator and keep the pressure 30 to 50 PSI. The piping should be rated for about double the pressure but you really don't want to test it. I use a quick disconnect https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Con...%2C503&sr=8-13 and just leave the air hose connected while I'm in the coach opening valves. When finished I leave the system pressurized. Come spring if there is still air in the system I know I'm leak free.
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:11 PM   #6
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I would not do this without antifreeze if you live in a very cold climate.
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:25 PM   #7
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I would not do this without antifreeze if you live in a very cold climate.
I'm not sure why the OP doesn't want to use chemicals. Personally I don't drink out of my RV's system so I don't really care what's in the water much. It could be urine and that would only impact where I rinse off my toothbrush and take a shower.

That said, as I've mentioned recently, I and some others here use a process to start by draining the pipes first using the low point drains, then fill the pipes with antifreeze using the siphon hose on the water pump, then blow out the system. That then supplies a lot of the antifreeze you need for traps and waste tanks. I suspect that would also address your concerns in that the chance of any residual water left undiluted by antifreeze would be near zero. And this process too leaves you ready for your next trip without any preparation besides adding water to the fresh and hot water tanks.
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:40 PM   #8
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I havenít blown out our RV for the last five years because we winter in Arizona. But when I did, I used the male hose fitting to male air chuck. I like this adapter because I can open a couple of faucets and connect the air line to the adapter. I take out water heater plug to let it drain and close the bypass. I connect the air hose. I donít have to stay with it. I open another faucet and close the first two. I go through all the faucets, hot and cold until nothing drips. Open low point drains one at a time and leave them open. I dump all the tanks leaving valves open and open all faucets. Add a cup of RV antifreeze to each trap. Donít forget washer trap even if you donít have one installed. You may have one pre-plumbed. I have traveled 4 days where the high temp was 14F and low of 11F. No problems.

The question most ask is how much air pressure. Probably 40-60psi is normal. Since I have done it so much, I use 120psi, but I am very careful how use it as stated above. Until you know how your system works donít use more than 60psi.
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:41 PM   #9
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If your coach has Aqua Hot system I would definitely us antifreeze for my hot water line for sure.
Also depending where you are, if gets below -20 I prefer going with the RV antifreeze in the lines.
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Old 10-27-2020, 05:52 PM   #10
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Old 10-28-2020, 03:52 PM   #11
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Thanks for your answer, it's very good, but I'm planning to be self-contained and I have a membrane water system to make all the water drinkable, and I'm use gray water to flush.

Chemicals does not work for me
Definitely on a black water tank it's okay.

Could you try to explain for me again about the places I should blow air, and how to?

Your answer is very clear but unfortunately English is not my primary language and I'm a little confused, I sincerely appreciate your reply.
Thank you!
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:23 PM   #12
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How will you verify all water is gone, and not simply allowing air to bubble through water pockets?
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodspike View Post
You connect to the city water port, with the adapter shown.

The first thing you'll probably need to do is set your water heater bypass valves and then drain the water tanks (both fresh and hot). Gravity is probably good enough got both--read your hot water tank manufacturer's manual.

Then with low pressure air (I use only 30 psi, which is lower than others), blow out the hot and cold lines working from the closest fixture to the furthest, and then go back again through them all just to be sure. Don't forget the exterior shower, toilet and any devices you have that use water. Ice makers and clothes washers may require special procedures. Then reset your water heater bypass valves.

Some people run the pump to clear it. I would instead just pump a small amount of antifreeze into it with the siphon hose, but that ruins your "no chemical" rule.

Oh, and you will need antifreeze for traps (including the shower) as well as the brown and grey tanks.
This is what i have done for the past 5 years. I also winterize my Motorhome more than once a season, when I get an itch to go camping in the winter. This is a really fast and efficient way to do this. I also leave all the water fixtures open. I also use the rv antifreeze to clear the pump, but take of the filter housing. As soon as it drains out I shut the pump off. When de-winterinzing I just run clear water from a bucket through the pump until clear. Then add a new filter and good as new.
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:42 PM   #14
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This is a true story.
I have a friend who blows out his water lines , drains all tanks and HW tank then pours cheap Vodka in his FW tank . Runs the pump to get a little in the waterlines .
He has never had anything freeze or burst.
He does use RV anti- freeze in the p-traps and in the toilet bowl.
He said one flush in the spring seems to clear the lines , with no smell or foul taste .
He doesn't like the idea of chemicals in the FW system.
To me , it seems like an awful waste of Vodka !
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