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BThomas · 10-25-2020, 05:31 PM

I used to blow out the water system with air but had to drop that in the last RV as it had a washer/dryer combo (solenoid valves in the back) and now with the newer RV, a residential fridge with an icemaker. NO idea how to get air through the icemaker so it seems the antifreeze is my only option.

And for those that have the vacuflush system for a toilet (or two) - i run a couple gallons of windshield washer fluid through it to be sure all the water is gone (WW fluid is cheaper than antifreeze). I'd hate to have to replace or repair the tank/pump system. I've done it before and it's a mess and a pain as they put the system in the most inaccessible location possible!

Thanks for any advice on the icemaker - love to go back to air blowout!

Willie B · 10-25-2020, 05:40 PM

Last winter, our entry year into RV Life, we paid to have our new to us Class A DP winterized w/ the pink stuff. I also recall he had a compressor as part of the process. This spring, as I was purging the antifreeze and started to run water, I eventually found a burst washing machine line behind a bank of cabinets (the washer option was never selected when it was purchased new, but I suspect National ran the line regardless). Today, I decided to use the compressor method, and added antifreeze to the p-traps, toilet, etc. Don't know if this method is better, but comforted by all those in this string that have been doing it this way w/ success.

MacGyver612 · 10-25-2020, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdpuff

In the past all I've ever used was compressed air to blow out all my lines, drain water heater and run pump for a couple minutes then pour some RV antifreeze into the P - traps and never had a problem. "But" with our new to us coach it has an Aquahot so it needs to have RV antifreeze pumped into it to protect it. It does have a winterizing system built into it to simplify the procedure.
Good luck!

I use a water pump with a male hose connector to some hose (use clear to see pink)connected to the old water pump ( I took out of our old MH) and a longer hose on the suction side to put in bottle or 5 gallon pail. Put a 12v power plug on pump and plug into booster pack. Hook up to city fill and works great. I do blow out with air first to keep from diluting.

MacGyver612 · 10-25-2020, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdpuff

In the past all I've ever used was compressed air to blow out all my lines, drain water heater and run pump for a couple minutes then pour some RV antifreeze into the P - traps and never had a problem. "But" with our new to us coach it has an Aquahot so it needs to have RV antifreeze pumped into it to protect it. It does have a winterizing system built into it to simplify the procedure.
Good luck!

I use a 12v rv water pump, with a male hose fitting with barbed for clear 3/8 hose, to pump output, same clear hose on suction side to put in container or 5 gallon pail. Put 12v plug on pump, plug into booster pack and pump in through to city water connection. I do use air to blow out so not to dilute pink.

Bobby F · 10-25-2020, 06:49 PM

Forecast low tomorrow night here in MN is 10F - and it's two months until winter starts. So I had to winterize, even though I'm taking it south in 3-4 weeks.

Having dealt with plumbing systems in Minnesota for six decades, I know that it's not worth taking shortcuts. (Burst pipes and fittings always seem to happen in hard-to-reach, hard-to-repair areas, and can cause awful damage before you catch them.)

So, I drain the water heater, blow the system out with compressed air (takes maybe 15 minutes), then pump antifreeze through the 3-way valve on the pump through all outlets, (maybe 25 minutes), and then blow it out again. Belt and suspenders, because the cost of dropping pants is so high.

(And, BTW, water expands as it goes through the liquid/solid phase change, and then as the temp drops below 28 it behaves like a regular solid by contracting slightly - but at the same time, plumbing materials become much more brittle and susceptible to failure, so there is a heightened danger of burst when it's very cold. A line that holds a frozen plug at 25 degrees may well burst at 5 degrees. You don't even want to touch a flexible water line at -25 degrees.)

MacGyver612 · 10-25-2020, 06:53 PM

I use my old water pump to fill system, use a male hose connector on a clear 3/8 hose to output side of pump, use another clear hose on suction side to put in 5 gallon pail or pink gallon container. Put a 12v power plug on pump. Plug into booster pack and fill system. I also blow out with air to make sure not to dilute pink.

Steve-ON · 10-25-2020, 08:49 PM

we get -30 to -40 5 months out of the year and antifreeze seems to do the trick for us

cekkk · 10-25-2020, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike8253

The OP lives in Idaho. I expect his winters will be more severe than yours. I've used RV antifreeze since I started RV'ing in 2004, and have never had issue with the water system after I purged it in the spring. And of course no issues over the winter time either. Unless you absolutely don't want to be bothered with the process of putting antifreeze in your system, I would much rather have the assurance of protection over a cold winter rather than hoping that blowing out the lines will provide it.

X2.

Daveyjo439 · 10-25-2020, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN_Traveler

I’ve never really gotten a good answer as to what pressure is too high and puts the plumbing at risk. You’ve used 40 ... do you know how close that is to the “edge” of safety?

I think my owners manual says 40 psi.

Bobby F · 10-25-2020, 10:26 PM

If you use the water hose from a hookup ever, you should have a pressure regulator on your inlet side so that the park's water pressure doesn't blow out your plumbing inside.

Set your compressor regulator to the same pressure as your water pressure regulator.

Goodspike · 10-25-2020, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby F

So, I drain the water heater, blow the system out with compressed air (takes maybe 15 minutes), then pump antifreeze through the 3-way valve on the pump through all outlets, (maybe 25 minutes), and then blow it out again. Belt and suspenders, because the cost of dropping pants is so high.

That's pretty much my system, although mine is probably a smaller RV. There's no way filling mine up with antifreeze takes 25 minutes.

And yeah, I'm worried about the consequences. A pipe behind the shower enclosure or somewhere else hard to get to busting. Most the system is fairly accessible, but that's not where it's going to break!

Unplanned Tourist · 10-25-2020, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BThomas

I used to blow out the water system with air but had to drop that in the last RV as it had a washer/dryer combo (solenoid valves in the back) and now with the newer RV, a residential fridge with an icemaker. NO idea how to get air through the icemaker so it seems the antifreeze is my only option.

And for those that have the vacuflush system for a toilet (or two) - i run a couple gallons of windshield washer fluid through it to be sure all the water is gone (WW fluid is cheaper than antifreeze). I'd hate to have to replace or repair the tank/pump system. I've done it before and it's a mess and a pain as they put the system in the most inaccessible location possible!

Thanks for any advice on the icemaker - love to go back to air blowout!

I just put 120 volts to the solenoid behind the fridge while the air is hooked up. You will hear the water blow out of the line inside your freezer. Once it's just blowing air cut the power, and it's done.

As far as the washer goes, the factory manual says to turn to a warm wash for a few minutes, then a spin cycle. This is with air pressure in the system. 2 cups of antifreeze in and another short time on spin. Done.

THenne1713 · 10-26-2020, 12:39 AM

Recent photo from 5th wheel owner underbelly, PEX went UNDER aur duct flex and formed a water trap, simple re-route and proper PEX pipe support would eliminate problem... but POINT is: YOUR RIG could also have similar simple issues/ risks?

PalmerAlaska · 10-26-2020, 08:50 AM

There are and will continue to be almost as many opinions as there are posts regarding the "blowout method" vs the "pink stuff" method. Because of where I live (Alaska) when I was new to the RV world I actually paid to have my RV winterized the first fall I had it because I didn't want to take any chances regarding damaged plumbing due to freezing. I read up on the process over the winter, the do's and don't's, etc., and because of the many different opinions I opted to do both. Drain and bypass the water heater, blow out all the water lines and then pump the "pink stuff" through all the lines. I mentioned this to an RV tech that I arbitrarily ran into one day and he said that I was wasting a lot of time, that it wasn't necessary to do both. He said that in all the years he's been in the business he's never used anything except the RV anti-freeze method, and he's never had a related issue. So from then on, several winters now, I've used only the RV anti-freeze method without any issues. Just my two cents worth.