?? Wire end Crimpers - What do you USE ??

[Busskipper]

Wire end Crimpers - What do you USE?

Simple but actually not. -

I'm the owner of a 2005 Coach - over the years it has had numerous issue with electrical connections - I carry all the tools to make repairs - Multi meter - Test Light - Replacement ends - Wire stripper - and a Crimper.

My weak link seems to be the Crimper - for years I've just used what I'll call the "Cheap" single crimp - non ratcheting - almost always fails crimper.

Last summer while on the road, I was repeatedly repairing all the old previously repaired connections - Soldered most of them but not all. I got to thinking - there has to be a quicker way to make these connections work.

So in a search i found that there is a Ratcheting Crimper (Actually there are many) - being that these old Hands just don't get them Tight, they might be the solution to my problem. -

So the simple Question - if you use a Ratcheting Crimper - Which One is Will Work?

This is my choice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...YTXHYQ2K&psc=1

Good or Bad ??? All suggestions welcome couple things that I usually think hard about - Cost - Good Reviews - Works. -

TIA

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by Busskipper

Wire end Crimpers - What do you USE?

Simple but actually not. -

I'm the owner of a 2005 Coach - over the years it has had numerous issue with electrical connections - I carry all the tools to make repairs - Multi meter - Test Light - Replacement ends - Wire stripper - and a Crimper.

My weak link seems to be the Crimper - for years I've just used what I'll call the "Cheap" single crimp - non ratcheting - almost always fails crimper.

Last summer while on the road, I was repeatedly repairing all the old previously repaired connections - Soldered most of them but not all. I got to thinking - there has to be a quicker way to make these connections work.

So in a search i found that there is a Ratcheting Crimper (Actually there are many) - being that these old Hands just don't get them Tight, they might be the solution to my problem. -

So the simple Question - if you use a Ratcheting Crimper - Which One is Will Work?

This is my choice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...YTXHYQ2K&psc=1

Good or Bad ??? All suggestions welcome couple things that I usually think hard about - Cost - Good Reviews - Works. -

TIA

Darn you Busskipper...... I have a large hydraulic crimper for cables and a pretty good manual crimper for 10/12/18 connectors but now I'll probably need one of these too... Sometimes I hate the internet

[Airboss68]

Good choice on style of crimper.

Used one to completely wire all the aircraft electrical and Avionics connections in the plane in my avatar and in rewiring the aircraft in my signature. Never a problem in either.

I have been using it also to replace several old poorly done and poor quality connectors on my bus.

I suggest this one>>>https://www.steinair.com/product/rat...er-frame-only/

With these jaws>>>https://www.steinair.com/product/ins...inal-die-only/

They cost a bit more but much better quality and precision.

The second component of this problem is, however, the quality of the connectors. Use good grade aviation connectors.
Search this site for the size/style connectors you need>>>>
https://www.steinair.com/product/14-...e-butt-splice/

I would also consider ordering this>>>>https://www.steinair.com/product/ter...it-450-pieces/

It should cover most, if not all of your connection needs.

With these crimpers, jaws, and connectors you will get good gas tight connections.

[texasrs]

Bill, that looks like a good replacement for my old crimper. I ordered one.
(hands gettin' old)


Ray

[US1]

Originally Posted by Busskipper

Wire end Crimpers - What do you USE?

Simple but actually not. -

I'm the owner of a 2005 Coach - over the years it has had numerous issue with electrical connections - I carry all the tools to make repairs - Multi meter - Test Light - Replacement ends - Wire stripper - and a Crimper.

My weak link seems to be the Crimper - for years I've just used what I'll call the "Cheap" single crimp - non ratcheting - almost always fails crimper.

Last summer while on the road, I was repeatedly repairing all the old previously repaired connections - Soldered most of them but not all. I got to thinking - there has to be a quicker way to make these connections work.

So in a search i found that there is a Ratcheting Crimper (Actually there are many) - being that these old Hands just don't get them Tight, they might be the solution to my problem. -

So the simple Question - if you use a Ratcheting Crimper - Which One is Will Work?

This is my choice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...YTXHYQ2K&psc=1

Good or Bad ??? All suggestions welcome couple things that I usually think hard about - Cost - Good Reviews - Works. -

TIA

My ratcheting crimpers are either Greenlee, Anchor, or Ideal.
The crimper you linked is the correct one for your normal crimps with the hard vinyl insulated sleeves. It’s not for use with the terminals that have the heat shrink sleeves.
The one you linked will cut thru the soft heat shrink. The correct crimper will have smooth jaws.

While ratcheting crimpers are indeed the best, there are specific ones for different terminals. For most uses, you’d be fine with 2 crimpers to cover your most common uses.

Heat shrink crimpers: https://comsmarine.com/seadog-heat-s...61a51d1eaae0cd

[tarnold]

When looking at the link, I also saw a Klein brand for a bit more. Went with it. My very old ratcheting crimper only had 2 slots and was hard to use. The handles on the Klein look like they can be used upside down when working in a tight spot.

[okcnewbie]

Darren over at MyRvWorks suggested these connectors to go with a good crimper so I bought them.
I also have a hydraulic crimper from HF with custom made dies as per Handy Bob if I remember right.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[David 70]

After watching the video in the post from Airboss68 I decided to go with the one he recommended. I wonder if the other less expensive crimp the insulation too hard. The cost difference is minimal.

[Busskipper]

Great Replies - only thing I can say is I may have forgotten the last critical Item on all my Tools - Good, but KISS.

Thanks - keep them Coming - sure we will have many different choices.

Great replies. - - -

[FormerBoater]

This is a topic that is near and dear to me. Most of my career was spent in the connector business.



Solderless Terminals and Splices + application tooling was a component of the product lines produced by my employers (Amp, Molex and Hollingsworth).


The single indent tool that is in virtually every electricians tool belt is the absolute worse crimping tool to use on a pre-insulated terminal or splice, but if you examine the wiring on most RV's (yes even high end DP's) you will see that the majority of RV manufacturers allowed their electricians to use this tool wherever they needed to crimp a ring, quick disconnect or splice.



Fleetwood (back in the late 80's and early 90's) made the investment to standardize on one manufacturer's crimp terminals and splices and made the investment in that manufacturer's application tooling (i.e. crimpers and semi-automatic machines).


I am not aware of any other manufacturer that made this investment with the exception possibly of Winnebago. Most bought from a variety of vendors with purchase price being the deciding factor. Hence all of the electrical issues that folks experience that we all read about constantly on these forums.


Regarding the input from those who have posted before you are spot on that a ratchet crimping tool with dies for pre-insulated terminals and splices is vastly superior to using the single indent crimpers.


If you want to go one better, use only products from one manufacturer and their crimping tool that is designed specifically for their product.



Look closely at the terminal or splice to determine who made it, if they are not proud enough to put their logo on it...move on it is likely Chinese in origin.


Amp, Molex, Hollingsworth, Thomas and Betts and Panduit are all top quality manufacturer's that offer military grade, QPL listed (assigned a military p/n and listed as meeting the specifications of MS25036 or Mil-T-7928 for pre-insulated products). These products will all have nylon vs PVC insulation material.


There is no doubt that the environment aboard a MH is a harsh one for electrical connections. I am not opining that you need to use military spec items on your rig, but the cost difference is modest and the quality difference is huge!

[Fiesta48]

Vise grips work great, adjustable for different size connectors. 1 less tool to carry. Crimped correctly, never have to fix later. Do this by crimping twice, 2nd time 90 degrees to first.

[Busskipper]

The solder connectors work well - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But we still need to replace the End Connector - Thus the need for a Good Crimper - old hands think the Ratcheting one will help - Keep up the Contributions - think we are all learning a lot.

[Jzack]

Lots of great info here. I've been using the "absolute worst" single indent manual crimper for almost 25 years but with very few failed connections. If there is a problem it is usually from moisture getting inside the crimp. I do have a hydraulic crimper with dies that I use for large gauge wire but it is too big for small jobs.

A trick I've learned is to strip back twice as much wire as necessary and fold it back on itself. This makes it far easier to totally fill the void in the connector before crimping. After the crimp, always give it a good tug to make sure it's tight. Done. It does take strong hands though so the ratcheting style crimper the OP mentioned looks like a good option for aging hands.

[rickemo]

Originally Posted by FormerBoater

This is a topic that is near and dear to me. Most of my career was spent in the connector business.



Solderless Terminals and Splices + application tooling was a component of the product lines produced by my employers (Amp, Molex and Hollingsworth).


The single indent tool that is in virtually every electricians tool belt is the absolute worse crimping tool to use on a pre-insulated terminal or splice, but if you examine the wiring on most RV's (yes even high end DP's) you will see that the majority of RV manufacturers allowed their electricians to use this tool wherever they needed to crimp a ring, quick disconnect or splice.



Fleetwood (back in the late 80's and early 90's) made the investment to standardize on one manufacturer's crimp terminals and splices and made the investment in that manufacturer's application tooling (i.e. crimpers and semi-automatic machines).


I am not aware of any other manufacturer that made this investment with the exception possibly of Winnebago. Most bought from a variety of vendors with purchase price being the deciding factor. Hence all of the electrical issues that folks experience that we all read about constantly on these forums.


Regarding the input from those who have posted before you are spot on that a ratchet crimping tool with dies for pre-insulated terminals and splices is vastly superior to using the single indent crimpers.


If you want to go one better, use only products from one manufacturer and their crimping tool that is designed specifically for their product.



Look closely at the terminal or splice to determine who made it, if they are not proud enough to put their logo on it...move on it is likely Chinese in origin.


Amp, Molex, Hollingsworth, Thomas and Betts and Panduit are all top quality manufacturer's that offer military grade, QPL listed (assigned a military p/n and listed as meeting the specifications of MS25036 or Mil-T-7928 for pre-insulated products). These products will all have nylon vs PVC insulation material.


There is no doubt that the environment aboard a MH is a harsh one for electrical connections. I am not opining that you need to use military spec items on your rig, but the cost difference is modest and the quality difference is huge!

I worked for AMP/Tyco/TE Connectivity for 43 years. Much of TE Connectivity’s product still uses the AMP logo. The industry standard RBY (red, blue & yellow) covers 10-12, 14-16 & 18-22 wire gages. For many years AMP produced their Champ Crimping tool which was a hand held single point of contact tool. This tool was sufficient for the RBY product line. Once you get larger wire gages than the RBY product hydraulic crispers come in play and in the even larger industrial wire sizes crimpers charged by shotgun style of power are used.
One important feature of a solderless terminal is the strain relief. This is an extension of the plastic sleeve to support the wire insulation. If only the wire is crimped and the insulation hangs out of the terminal the vibration over time will weaken the wire and can cause a failure. In some cases the terminal itself has an insulation barrel that gets crimped along with the wire barrel to eliminate the possibility of strain relief.
This is probably way more information than most are looking for but hey, some days I have more time on my hands than others .