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Old 03-22-2021, 08:28 PM   #1
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Wiring NIGHTMARE - 93 Pace Arrow Furnace

There are no diagrams available and I have rewired this thing 30 times. Does anyone happen to have a 93ish pace arrow by Fleetwood on a f450 chassis please take a pic of the furnace blower motors like this. I cannot figure it out.
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:56 PM   #2
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While you're waiting for somebody to post photos of their wiring for the same model as yours, you might want to take a look at some of the generic stuff that is posted online.

Many of the old Atwood furnaces are wired similarly no matter what RV they're in. There are lots of videos out there that you can view that may give you an idea of how to wire it correctly as most are replacing the motor or other parts.

I'll attach one of the better videos that will illustrate a lot of wiring and the guy narrating is pretty good at explaining things. At about 6:37 he shows how to connect the new motor wires after replacing the motor. He screws up the first attept to position the wheel so has to replace it but overall, he's good at explaining things so it may or may not help you to view the video.

I've also attached a wiring diagram that I have in my files. It's for an Atwood furnace but I'm not sure if it's for the exact model you have or not but it may or may not give you some clues as to how the wiring is suppose to be connected.

As I mentioned, if you go online, there are many more videos along with a lot of documentation about Atwood furnaces ...installation, parts diagrams, troubleshooting, etc., etc.

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Old 03-22-2021, 10:57 PM   #3
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What is make and model of furnace? With that information you can download the installation manual from bryantrv.com
To determine the MH supply wires you need a VOM - volt, ohm meter.
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Old 03-22-2021, 11:35 PM   #4
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The Model number of that Atwood Furnace would help.

You have the wiring diagram right there on the cover panel.

Basically

12VDC+ Fused Source....goes to that On/Off Circuit Breaker Switch

From the Switch/CB DC+ goes to TDR (Timed Delay Relay)
Opposite side terminal is DC+ to Motor

When Thermostat Closes the DC+ from T-stat comes back/goes to TDR
AND to Sail Switch & High Temp Limit Switch---that heats a coil inside the TDR and allows the DC+ go to motor to start FAN
Opposite side terminal is GROUND

When Fan comes up to 75%/better speed the Sail Switch Closes via Paddle sticking out into the air stream (2 white wires thru that grommet in motor cover go to/from sail switch)
When switch Closes DC+ goes to Circuit Board (White Wire in connector)

Circuit Board then sends DC+ to Gas Valve (Red Wire in connector)
And High Voltage Current to Spark Electrode (Large Orange Wire)

Black and Yellow in connector are Grounds






Can't tell from your Photo...exact wiring on terminals of the TDR

But you have a LOT of 'connections' ---wire splices/butt connectors etc
None of those are good/reliable for solid contacts
**Would have been better off using Wire Nuts then go back and secured with electricians tape AFTER you test furnace operation



Red Wires on the On/Off CB ----one is 12VDC+ from Fused Source/other is 12VDC+ going to TDR
Thin Red wire should be connected to the DC+ Fused Source going to on/off CB

Thin WHITE wire should be 12VDC+ coming from the Thermostat (to Sail Switch---white wire/grommet and then back out of grommet to High Temp Limit Switch)


TDR has 2 single terminals
One terminal is DC+ from the on/off cb switch
Opposite side terminal goes to motor

Other terminals should be doubles
One set is DC+ from thermostat and to Sail Switch/Limit Switch
Opposite set goes to ground block



Think your thin Red and thin White Wires are not correct

Thin Red should be connected to the RED to the on/off cb
Thin White should be connected to TDR AND go to Sail Switch

Plus the Wiring at TDR


Model...that will get a clear wiring diagram
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Old 03-23-2021, 09:02 AM   #5
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What he said ^^^^^^
Loose all the splicing....
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Old 03-23-2021, 10:22 AM   #6
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Can anyone shed some light on my wiring issue please. I'm literally out of ideas.

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Old 03-23-2021, 10:59 AM   #7
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I do not like shutecase power taps. I have had trouble with two RVs in the past with bad connections using the shutecase power taps. Too many wire strands cut. Corrosion of the copper wire.
Try moving the connections to see if it is intermittent.
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Old 03-23-2021, 11:36 AM   #8
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Now that you have posted the wiring diagrams on the cover (was lacking that in your Other Posting)

The Connector to the circuit board shows it is a 85-ii furnace
(White/Red/Black/Yellow)

So as suggested in your Other Posting.........get rid of all of those spllce connector/butt connectors and start with all wiring disconnected
Then connect that RED DC+ Power wire to the on/off CB Switch and follow the wiring diagram for the 85-ii furnace
One circuit at a time...and use Wire Nuts to connect new wires with good spade connectors to the TDR (Timed Delay Relay), to the Thermostat wires (small red/white wires) and to/from Sail Switch (White wires in grommet)

WHEN you have all wires connected as per that 85-ii wiring diagram and furnace tests by running THEN go back and secure all wire nuts with electricians tape


***Per your Other Post you are Frustrated and with all the wiring/rewiring you have gotten confused.
Start FRESH...get rid of all of that 'bird nest' wiring (except the OEM wires to ON/Off Switch (Large RED) and to the Spark Electrode (Large Orange AND that Black Wire from circuit board connector---is is for the ground rod Spark Electrode Uses)
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Old 03-23-2021, 11:46 AM   #9
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https://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-furnace-components/

Just saw this posted yesterday and I save it.

I warned all of my techs if they got caught using those chincy intermittent nut driving pieces of crap I would fire them. They could get away in an emergency using wire nuts but never on coax of course.

Ok, just added my rant.

So now, just what are your symptoms our new friend?

Find a good ground for your voltmeter to start. And not one of the wires in the birds nest soup there. Your ground could be faulty and would just add misery.

Run a wire from a good clean ground. If you must, use an extension cord with three prongs and plug your meter into the ground connection of the cord. Cram a nail or round screwdriver in with the probe so things do not come loose. Take a measurement at your batteries to be sure your meter is reading correctly. Then, and only then can you take measurements accurately.

The link I posted looks fairly good to get you going.

The furnaces are usually not complex but damaged wiring will make you crazy.

Sharpen your positive probe on the meter so it will be able to pierce a wire if needed and wrap all but the smallest portion in tape.
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Old 03-23-2021, 12:05 PM   #10
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Kserieskid,

I believe your Pace Arrow is on the F53 Ford chassis, not an F450. Old Biscuit is your best answer so far.

It will help people if you added a signature line. Upper left hand end of the teal colored toolbar, select the USer CP and go to Signature edit.

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Old 03-23-2021, 12:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
https://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-furnace-components/

Just saw this posted yesterday and I save it.

I warned all of my techs if they got caught using those chincy intermittent nut driving pieces of crap I would fire them. They could get away in an emergency using wire nuts but never on coax of course.

Ok, just added my rant.

So now, just what are your symptoms our new friend?

Find a good ground for your voltmeter to start. And not one of the wires in the birds nest soup there. Your ground could be faulty and would just add misery.

Run a wire from a good clean ground. If you must, use an extension cord with three prongs and plug your meter into the ground connection of the cord. Cram a nail or round screwdriver in with the probe so things do not come loose. Take a measurement at your batteries to be sure your meter is reading correctly. Then, and only then can you take measurements accurately.

The link I posted looks fairly good to get you going.

The furnaces are usually not complex but damaged wiring will make you crazy.

Sharpen your positive probe on the meter so it will be able to pierce a wire if needed and wrap all but the smallest portion in tape.
OP has rewired it incorrectly and needs to start from scratch

Plus his furnace uses a TDR (Timed Delay Relay) in addition to a circuit board
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:19 PM   #12
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Wow thank you all so much I'm new and had no idea I had responses. I'll handle them one at a time lol.
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:20 PM   #13
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I was told it was a 450, and I have installed calipers rotors and a few other things from an f450. Although now I think about it, could be interchangeable
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Old 03-25-2021, 12:24 AM   #14
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The F53 chassis

is a bare chassis unique to the motorhomes (and similar vehicles). It does share some components with the F-250 and 350 series trucks although I'm not too sure about suspension parts. Does make it handy if the guy at the auto parts store can't find F53 in their computer, try F-250/350 or E-350 (van bodies).


As for de-confusing your wiring, try copying the wiring diagram on a piece of paper (doesn't have to be perfect looking, just has to match the diagram). As you trace and re-install each wire, color it on your drawing with a marker. That will help you see which wires are done and which are left to do. (The copy on paper is preferable to using markers on the wiring diagram printed on the furnace door.) Wiring diagrams are just that; they do not always show the wiring running exactly as it is in real life.
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