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Old 08-02-2021, 02:46 PM   #1
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Yet another Coleman Mach basement air question

I am in the midst of overhauling my basement air conditioner. My outside blower motor and pillow bearing are bad. I have sourced and purchased the new and improved pillow bearing from Grainger, but having a hard time replacing the blower motor. My unit is a Fasco 1468a302. I have seen on older posts that the replacement part number is 1468a3029, however when I search for that part number I keep getting reference to part number 14683069. Is this a direct or suitable replacement part? If so, I see in the picture it has the long shaft, but also a shorter shaft on the other side. Is this acceptable? Also the RPM range on mine is 875, but the 1468a3029 and 14683069 is 1050-1570 (roughly), is this acceptable? These parts apparently are getting somewhat hard to find. I'm hoping someone smarter than me has some insight. Thank you in advance
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:23 PM   #2
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No actual experience with these. I can tell you sometimes the OEM part # is a one off # of other common motor. I have cut many more common motor shafts to repair HVAC s fans. Or the longer shaft made no issue as long as fan was in same place . These motors were through small supplier and they would cross reference #s or specs for us.
Good luck I hope you find what you need.
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:10 AM   #3
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Is this the motor your looking for?
https://emotorpro.com/products/coleman_1468a-3029
What is wrong with existing motor?
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Old 08-03-2021, 07:19 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Is this the motor your looking for?
https://emotorpro.com/products/coleman_1468a-3029
What is wrong with existing motor?
I think so, but the RPM range on this one is much higher. What I am trying to find out is if that matters. I see the draw is very similar, but I don't know what happens if the fan spins at a higher rate.

My motor's internal bearings went out due to the pillow bearing wearing out and causing a lot of vibration (my assumption). The fan will fire up and run for a period of time, but overloads after a few minutes and shuts down. From past posts, this seems to be a common problem since the old pillow bearing requires periodic oiling. The ones i bought at Grainger are sealed bearings.

Wile the unit is out of the RV I am replacing both pillow bearings, this motor, all capacitors and relays. Anything that isn't pressurized will be new. We are also relocating the outdoor fan capacitor into the opening where all the other capacitors are for future access. My AC guy is also cleaning the coils (both). I hope to never pull the unit out again. Oh, also replacing the metal fan with the newer plastic fan.
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:34 AM   #5
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You say the rpm range of the existing motor is 875. The drawing says the high speed rpm is 875 same as your existing motor.
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Old 08-04-2021, 07:00 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
You say the rpm range of the existing motor is 875. The drawing says the high speed rpm is 875 same as your existing motor.
You are absolutely right. Weird. When I look up that motor it states the RPM range much higher, and when I messaged Coleman they told me the same. I am so confused.
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:17 PM   #7
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I would not replace your motor with another motor that was rated at more then 875 rpm. If your existing motors bearings are bad and they are ball bearings just get new bearings. If you have a motor shop in your area they can likely repair your motor or sell you a new motor to replace the old one with something similar that would work ok.
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Old 08-04-2021, 05:31 PM   #8
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Could you tell us the model of your air conditioner? Ours was rebuilt this spring and the best place to get right the motors was Airxcel. We decided it was best to do both motors and bearings, compressors and 5 shreider valves and a bunch of freon.. so basically rebuild. But its great now.... better than new.
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Old 08-19-2021, 06:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SewFishy View Post
Could you tell us the model of your air conditioner? Ours was rebuilt this spring and the best place to get right the motors was Airxcel. We decided it was best to do both motors and bearings, compressors and 5 shreider valves and a bunch of freon.. so basically rebuild. But its great now.... better than new.
Sorry my reply is so late. My model number is 6537A671.
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Old 08-25-2021, 08:37 AM   #10
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Problem solved. So I finally determined i could use the 1468a3029 in my AC and ordered one on Ebay. Well it arrived yesterday and to my surprise the one that was sent was 1468a302. The exact motor I removed. Every supplier told me this motor was no longer available, but apparently it is. It is a Gentec and not a fasco, which worries me some, but at least my unit is back together and ready to go back into my RV. Thanks everyone for all the help. After all this and the changes i made to the connections for the ducting, if it needs to come out again, I think i now have enough experience to make short work of it.
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binkley2 View Post
Problem solved. So I finally determined i could use the 1468a3029 in my AC and ordered one on Ebay. Well it arrived yesterday and to my surprise the one that was sent was 1468a302. The exact motor I removed. Every supplier told me this motor was no longer available, but apparently it is. It is a Gentec and not a fasco, which worries me some, but at least my unit is back together and ready to go back into my RV. Thanks everyone for all the help. After all this and the changes i made to the connections for the ducting, if it needs to come out again, I think i now have enough experience to make short work of it.
binkley2,
Congrats on r & r'ing your basement A/C. I too just got mine back in yesterday. Apparently it's an almost identical model to yours only, I have no "A" in the model number. Hmmmm. Wonder what the "A" stands for or represents?

As for the sealed bearing from Grainger, well, I got that very same bearing, approximately 8-9 years ago and installed it. All was good for several thousand miles and multiple years on the coach and use of that A/C unit. Our coach is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and that basement A/C unit has done quite well over the 10 years and 100,000 miles we've put on it. But, in the last year or so, that basement A/C unit has gotten a bit louder and louder in clanging. Hmmmm.

I was prepared for the worst when I removed it a few days ago, thinking a cracked fan or bad motor. But, what it was was, that sealed bearing I installed from Grainger, had both Allen set screws, SELF STRIP! and therefore, the collar that the set screws are in, was very slightly bouncing around on the motor shaft, NOT GOOD!

So, I removed that bearing, and tried to not only drill out the original threads for the 10-32 set screws but, also drill a new set of holes for tapping, for new set screws. AIN'T HAPPENING!!!!!!!! That collar is some hard 'Chit" man! So, on the hunt I went for a replacement bearing. The bearing itself was in flawless shape. It was the set screws that went bad.

I determined two things.

1. The motor shaft where the set screws make contact, is ROUND. Those set screws need a FLAT surface to make a better contact point.
2. Those set screws need some sort of Loc-tite on them to prevent self-loosening over the zillion hours of operation.

So, I got extremely lucky here in our little town of Lake Havasu City AZ and found a place that had TWO replacement bearings, almost identical to the one I removed. The main difference is, the ones I procured are not "sealed". They are somewhat sealed. By that I mean, there is a metal type cover over the bearings that has real tight clearance to the spinning collar. It does not have the neoprene (or whatever it's made of) type seal.

My thought is, in that *somewhat* clean operating environment, that bearing ought to last us oh, maybe around 3-5 years or so, just guessing. And, if that's the case, I bought TWO of those replacement bearings, just in case!!!! And the best part, I got them for $10 each, can't beat that with a stick!

The other thing I did was, mark that motor shaft where the Allen set screws are gonna bite in and, I simply ground a flat spot on that shaft, in two places, for two set screws.

I didn't want to use the green Loc-tite I had because, that stuff is extremely tough break free, if and when needed. So, the third thing I did was, use Silicone to coat the threads of the set screws in the new bearing. Silcone will cure and won't let the set screws self-back out. The flat spot, will also help in keeping the collar from rotating on the motorshaft.

It's all back together and, back to the quiet operation it used to be, YAHOOOOO! Anyway, hope yours is gonna work fine too.
Scott

P.S. In the pics, first, sorry for the rotated one, my stupid phone does that quite often. I hate that phone. Second, in the pic with the bearings, the new one is on the left and the old one is on the right, and the rubber collar, is centered. You can see the steel semi-seal in the left, new bearing. It will work for quite a while since it's not really operating in a dirty environment.
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Old 08-26-2021, 06:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
binkley2,
Congrats on r & r'ing your basement A/C. I too just got mine back in yesterday. Apparently it's an almost identical model to yours only, I have no "A" in the model number. Hmmmm. Wonder what the "A" stands for or represents?

As for the sealed bearing from Grainger, well, I got that very same bearing, approximately 8-9 years ago and installed it. All was good for several thousand miles and multiple years on the coach and use of that A/C unit. Our coach is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and that basement A/C unit has done quite well over the 10 years and 100,000 miles we've put on it. But, in the last year or so, that basement A/C unit has gotten a bit louder and louder in clanging. Hmmmm.

I was prepared for the worst when I removed it a few days ago, thinking a cracked fan or bad motor. But, what it was was, that sealed bearing I installed from Grainger, had both Allen set screws, SELF STRIP! and therefore, the collar that the set screws are in, was very slightly bouncing around on the motor shaft, NOT GOOD!

So, I removed that bearing, and tried to not only drill out the original threads for the 10-32 set screws but, also drill a new set of holes for tapping, for new set screws. AIN'T HAPPENING!!!!!!!! That collar is some hard 'Chit" man! So, on the hunt I went for a replacement bearing. The bearing itself was in flawless shape. It was the set screws that went bad.

I determined two things.

1. The motor shaft where the set screws make contact, is ROUND. Those set screws need a FLAT surface to make a better contact point.
2. Those set screws need some sort of Loc-tite on them to prevent self-loosening over the zillion hours of operation.

So, I got extremely lucky here in our little town of Lake Havasu City AZ and found a place that had TWO replacement bearings, almost identical to the one I removed. The main difference is, the ones I procured are not "sealed". They are somewhat sealed. By that I mean, there is a metal type cover over the bearings that has real tight clearance to the spinning collar. It does not have the neoprene (or whatever it's made of) type seal.

My thought is, in that *somewhat* clean operating environment, that bearing ought to last us oh, maybe around 3-5 years or so, just guessing. And, if that's the case, I bought TWO of those replacement bearings, just in case!!!! And the best part, I got them for $10 each, can't beat that with a stick!

The other thing I did was, mark that motor shaft where the Allen set screws are gonna bite in and, I simply ground a flat spot on that shaft, in two places, for two set screws.

I didn't want to use the green Loc-tite I had because, that stuff is extremely tough break free, if and when needed. So, the third thing I did was, use Silicone to coat the threads of the set screws in the new bearing. Silcone will cure and won't let the set screws self-back out. The flat spot, will also help in keeping the collar from rotating on the motorshaft.

It's all back together and, back to the quiet operation it used to be, YAHOOOOO! Anyway, hope yours is gonna work fine too.
Scott

P.S. In the pics, first, sorry for the rotated one, my stupid phone does that quite often. I hate that phone. Second, in the pic with the bearings, the new one is on the left and the old one is on the right, and the rubber collar, is centered. You can see the steel semi-seal in the left, new bearing. It will work for quite a while since it's not really operating in a dirty environment.

Great information. I wondered about the set screws as well. I haven't put mine back into the RV yet as I am waiting on my Ac guys to come and acid clean my coils, so I think I will do the same flat spots on my shaft as well. My old motor was still working but would stop after a while (after it heated up). I believe this was due to the failed outer bearing, but wasn't willing to take the chance and not replace the motor. Even though my AC guys said the faster motor would work since I already have the plastic fan cage, I am happier knowing I got the same motor part number. Good luck with yours. I'm very hopeful that mine will perform much better when it is put back into the RV. I have been largely underwhelmed by the basement air. I even added a rooftop AC last year to help it out on very hot afternoons.
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Old 08-26-2021, 06:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
binkley2,
Congrats on r & r'ing your basement A/C. I too just got mine back in yesterday. Apparently it's an almost identical model to yours only, I have no "A" in the model number. Hmmmm. Wonder what the "A" stands for or represents?

As for the sealed bearing from Grainger, well, I got that very same bearing, approximately 8-9 years ago and installed it. All was good for several thousand miles and multiple years on the coach and use of that A/C unit. Our coach is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and that basement A/C unit has done quite well over the 10 years and 100,000 miles we've put on it. But, in the last year or so, that basement A/C unit has gotten a bit louder and louder in clanging. Hmmmm.

I was prepared for the worst when I removed it a few days ago, thinking a cracked fan or bad motor. But, what it was was, that sealed bearing I installed from Grainger, had both Allen set screws, SELF STRIP! and therefore, the collar that the set screws are in, was very slightly bouncing around on the motor shaft, NOT GOOD!

So, I removed that bearing, and tried to not only drill out the original threads for the 10-32 set screws but, also drill a new set of holes for tapping, for new set screws. AIN'T HAPPENING!!!!!!!! That collar is some hard 'Chit" man! So, on the hunt I went for a replacement bearing. The bearing itself was in flawless shape. It was the set screws that went bad.

I determined two things.

1. The motor shaft where the set screws make contact, is ROUND. Those set screws need a FLAT surface to make a better contact point.
2. Those set screws need some sort of Loc-tite on them to prevent self-loosening over the zillion hours of operation.

So, I got extremely lucky here in our little town of Lake Havasu City AZ and found a place that had TWO replacement bearings, almost identical to the one I removed. The main difference is, the ones I procured are not "sealed". They are somewhat sealed. By that I mean, there is a metal type cover over the bearings that has real tight clearance to the spinning collar. It does not have the neoprene (or whatever it's made of) type seal.

My thought is, in that *somewhat* clean operating environment, that bearing ought to last us oh, maybe around 3-5 years or so, just guessing. And, if that's the case, I bought TWO of those replacement bearings, just in case!!!! And the best part, I got them for $10 each, can't beat that with a stick!

The other thing I did was, mark that motor shaft where the Allen set screws are gonna bite in and, I simply ground a flat spot on that shaft, in two places, for two set screws.

I didn't want to use the green Loc-tite I had because, that stuff is extremely tough break free, if and when needed. So, the third thing I did was, use Silicone to coat the threads of the set screws in the new bearing. Silcone will cure and won't let the set screws self-back out. The flat spot, will also help in keeping the collar from rotating on the motorshaft.

It's all back together and, back to the quiet operation it used to be, YAHOOOOO! Anyway, hope yours is gonna work fine too.
Scott

P.S. In the pics, first, sorry for the rotated one, my stupid phone does that quite often. I hate that phone. Second, in the pic with the bearings, the new one is on the left and the old one is on the right, and the rubber collar, is centered. You can see the steel semi-seal in the left, new bearing. It will work for quite a while since it's not really operating in a dirty environment.
I just noticed you used a motorcycle jack to remove yours from the RV. I did the same and it made the process so much easier. I am one of those guys who hate to ask for help with anything. The right tool, even if it is not intended for the job, is invaluable. On to my next RV project, I am installing a residential refrigerator. Also very underwhelmed with the performance of the Norcold.
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Old 08-26-2021, 07:42 PM   #14
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when i pulled mine i just backed my toyota pickup up to it.it was the perfect height,just slide it out into the bed and worked on it right there,ran the wiring to it and ran it right there in the back to make sure it was working before i went to the trouble of putting it back in.
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