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Old 12-01-2020, 05:59 PM   #1
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2008 Pleasure Way Advice

I just purchased this 2008 Pleasure Way from an elderly private seller who was unable to show me how “anything” works and I’m a first time RV owner. I have figured out a lot on my own but I need help with a few things and on the top of my list is the Suburban furnace. I cannot find the “shut off valve” to turn it on. The heater is built into my kitchen cabinet and the switch is not anywhere on the top, sides, or bottom of what is exposed. There is no on/off switch on the thermostat either. Anyone have any clues? Thanks !
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:08 PM   #2
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If I understand the question, the "shut off valve" is often the main propane tank valve, as it was on my 2002 Roadtrek. If you know where the propane tank is located, it's probably a matter of turning one of the nearby valves to it's "open" position to supply the onboard appliances. Which model do you have, and do you have the owner's manual for ir? There were 4 models in 2008. If it's the Lexor, the propane tank is loicated behind a panel at the rear bumper. The valve you want to open is the brass looking one with the black hose attached to it, as shown on page 12 in the 2008 Lexor TS OM.
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Old 12-01-2020, 10:57 PM   #3
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I believe Winterbagoal is correct. In both of my roadtreks the only valves are the main supply valve on the propane tank and the thermostat setting. If you have the 12V relay on or are plugged into 120 volt AC, the thermostat and furnace should have power. Open the propane valve and slide the temperature lever up and it should light and the fan start.

Good luck.
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Old 12-02-2020, 06:48 AM   #4
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Yes, the thermostat is the on/off switch. If it is all the way to the left (colder) then as you move it to the right (warmer) you will feel it go past a detent or click. The furnace will light when the thermostat is set warm enough. When you turn it off, be sure you feel it click again.
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arm View Post
I believe Winterbagoal is correct. In both of my roadtreks the only valves are the main supply valve on the propane tank and the thermostat setting. If you have the 12V relay on or are plugged into 120 volt AC, the thermostat and furnace should have power. Open the propane valve and slide the temperature lever up and it should light and the fan start.

Good luck.
Thanks for adding that. There has to be DC power available to the furnace for it to work. Coach battery enable/disable switch must be "enabled".
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:22 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I have the Excel TS model and I do have the propane turned on. I am able to light my stove just fine. When I turn the thermostat up (to say 85) I do hear a click and same when I turn it off. But nothing happens. I was reading on line that the Suburban furnaces have this shut off value (sometimes as referred to as a switch) that must be turned on. From the pictures it looks similar to a light switch except smaller and can be located on the top, bottom, side of furnace. I tested it again last night when the temp inside was about 50 and "nothing".
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:34 AM   #7
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There is a thing called a sail switch that must function properly before the burner will light. It can be blocked by debris in the intake port on the outside of the motorhome. Can you check that with a flashlight or a short piece of wire to see if anything is stuck inside the "air in" port? The intake/exhaust ports are loacted behind a silver plate with an upper and lower vent hole. This plate will be on the outside of the van, usually very close to where the furnace is located inside. See the pictures in the Owners Manual page 12. I've had mud dawbers or other flying insects try to build nests in mine once before. I was able to fashion a wire with a hooked end on it and drag out most of the paper debris to clean it up.
As for a dedicated on/off switch on the furnace itself, you might want to try to get the exact model number of the furnace and see if there's a schematic diagram that shows where it is located, or even if yours has one. You could contact Suburban for some help?
Here are some more troubleshooting hits on the internet.
https://www.google.com/search?ei=n6X...sclient=psy-ab
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Old 12-02-2020, 12:35 PM   #8
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I really appreciate the advice !
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Old 12-17-2020, 05:59 PM   #9
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Hi everyone - still working on getting my heater to work. It's a Suburban furnace Model Number NT-16SE. I cannot find any sort of switch to power it on and the thermostat does nothing. Like I said earlier, my stove works just fine and so does my water heater so I know I'm getting propane inside the Van. I've had several folks look at it and it's a big mystery. Thought I'd circle back to my forum folks in case anyone might have another nugget of advice. I'm now up North and pretty chilly . Happy Holidays everyone !
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Old 12-18-2020, 01:25 PM   #10
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If there is no secondary switch, and you have power & gas to the furnace, the only thing left is the control module/board inside the furnace.

You would need to bring it to an RV repair shop, or if you or someone you know, have the tools and can remove/replace the furnace to save the labour costs.
On my 1996 I removed the furnace and took it to the RV dealer and had it repaired and bench tested. The board was $89.00 and shop labour $35.00 so with tax it was about $130.00 CND. They quoted 2 hours labour to remove and replace at $138.00/hr.
It took me about 15 min. out and 20 min back in. In the Roadtrek it was very easily accessible, under rear seat. That may not be the case in your Pleasure Way.

Hope this helps you and you can get some heat soon.
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Old 12-31-2020, 06:53 PM   #11
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On my 24k btu Suburban Furnace I have had sketchy startup results.

I have learned to turn the heat setting to zero at the thermostat.

Then turn the furnace off at the thermostat and wait for a couple of minutes.

Next, turn on the furnace at the thermostat.

Then slowly move the temp control up to exceed the existing air temp significantly.

You should hear the blower start up to blow on the sail switch.

20 seconds later listen for a couple of clicks of the ignitor. Then the heat should become detectable.

Whenever possible, we get better and quieter results from a $30 electric heater if you have shore power.


This is randomly successful on my 26 yr old furnace.


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...-Nt-16seq.html
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