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Old 08-31-2020, 08:11 PM   #1
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3.0L MB Diesel - Performance upgrades

Still new to my 2018 Winnebago ERA 70A on the sprinter (2016) 3500 chassis. I was wondering if there are any performance upgrades for the 3.0 MB diesel?


I am familiar with diesel tuners just wondering if there are any reliable "safe" type upgrades. Not looking for a ton of power maybe an extra 20 -30 HP and 40+ ft lbs of torque. I don't know what kind of transmission I have other than a 5 speed auto and no idea how much additional power it can withstand, it's kind of hard to find specs on it.


Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:03 PM   #2
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This is a first for me. I've been on most of the popular RV forums for over 10 years and I've never seen anyone ask about performance upgrades for the MB 3.0L diesel engine. There have been a few questions/threads about doing SCR/DPF/DEF deletes, but that's about it, that I can recall.
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:54 PM   #3
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Have not modified my Sprinter yet, but put a Race Chip tuner on my MB Bluetec diesel suv. Noticeable improvement. German company.
https://www.racechip.us/shop/mercede...-325lb-ft.html
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Old 09-01-2020, 08:51 AM   #4
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Just my two cents worth

I have no idea why you would want to mess with this ..... but, if I were you, I'd think twice about doing anything other than just driving the vehicle with the stock engine.

Any modifications you make could have a deleterious impact either on the motor, emissions system or both.

My advice is just skip this and enjoy your MB turbo diesel. You didn't buy the RV to become a "race car", the power plant is plenty for this purpose.
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Old 09-01-2020, 08:59 AM   #5
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I'm surprised you couldn't find any specs, they're everywhere online

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPalmer View Post
Still new to my 2018 Winnebago ERA 70A on the sprinter (2016) 3500 chassis. I was wondering if there are any performance upgrades for the 3.0 MB diesel?


I am familiar with diesel tuners just wondering if there are any reliable "safe" type upgrades. Not looking for a ton of power maybe an extra 20 -30 HP and 40+ ft lbs of torque. I don't know what kind of transmission I have other than a 5 speed auto and no idea how much additional power it can withstand, it's kind of hard to find specs on it.


Thanks.
Look, I don't think you should do any modifications of any kind on your engine and I wouldn't advise adding any "chips"....

The engine is a 188 horsepower, 325 foot pounds of torque between 1,400-2,400 RPM power plant.

Which means that you have a lot of torque at in this range.

And the 5 speed automatic is a heavy duty shift able transmission.

I have not had any difficulties climbing mountains in my Sprinter.
RV's have a lot of weight. I don't know what you're expecting in acceleration, but, for a vehicle this size, it's not bad.

And, my rear axle ratio is 4.10, I'm sure your ERA is similar.

Good luck, just enjoy the ride. The journey is the destination, you don't have to speed.
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Old 09-01-2020, 11:31 AM   #6
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I'm thinking the Mercedes Bluetech Diesel is already a famously touchy beast, and I would not be messing with it except to address specific concerns like the potential for "limp mode", or "black death", or hose and/or belt issues. In other words, I'd be focused on keeping it running as smoothly as possible, and not on venturing into the unknown. I'd save that kind of tweaking for my sports car, if I had one.
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Old 09-01-2020, 01:56 PM   #7
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One thought. Last fall I took mine out for its half hour every six weeks ride and I commented to my wife it didn’t seem to have its usual peppiness. It felt exactly like the turbo wasn’t engaging. Fifteen minutes into the ride my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic and the code came back as one of the exhaust air flow sensors. I figure the computer picked up on a bad reading and maybe disabled the turbo (I am assuming it has a dump gate that was opened or something like that). He said it’s way too early in the mileage for that to be bad do he reset it and the engine became immediately more responsive. 3500 miles later it is still fine.

Anyway, my point is that if it feels sluggish maybe something is wrong because I am quite happy with the output of mine when it’s running correctly.
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Old 09-02-2020, 02:14 PM   #8
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Appreciate the replies, but like I said new to the THIS diesel.


Adding 20 or 30 HP is NOT my need for (nor my idea of) a race car, have one, I am more concerned about pulling a trailer with a small vehicle on board up the mountains out west. I drive a truck that has 300hp and 500ft lbs of torque (from the factory) and is quite adequate for practically anything I need to tow. So forgive me if I think the 325 ft lbs is a bit on the squeamish side for pulling the ERA, a trailer and small run-around vehicle. Speed is not my goal but neither are extended runs at 30 mph at 2600 rpms.
It was just a question no need to get all purist on the new comer.


Thanks again.
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Old 09-02-2020, 02:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocinante440 View Post
I'm thinking the Mercedes Bluetech Diesel is already a famously touchy beast, and I would not be messing with it except to address specific concerns like the potential for "limp mode", or "black death", or hose and/or belt issues. In other words, I'd be focused on keeping it running as smoothly as possible, and not on venturing into the unknown. I'd save that kind of tweaking for my sports car, if I had one.

OK so I am familair with a "limp mode" on vehicles, but what the heck is the "Black Death"? Appreciate the advice, just finished a Service "B" (?), so hopefully the basics have been addressed.


P.S. I do tweak on my 2013 L77 Caprice 9C1....
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Old 09-02-2020, 05:13 PM   #10
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First off, I'm no purist. Most important thing here is that it's your Sprinter, and your wallet, do what you want. You asked for input, and you got some, that's all.

Meanwhile, Sprinter black death: https://sprintergurus.com/fuel-injector-black-death/
Oh, and this is fun to read: https://www.sprinter.repair/11-common-sprinter-problems
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Old 09-02-2020, 10:13 PM   #11
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Consider a pedal box. Pedalbox.com
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Old 09-06-2020, 08:28 AM   #12
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I'm happy with the MB diesel engine in my class C the way it is but I don't plan on towing anything.
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPalmer View Post
I drive a truck that has 300hp and 500ft lbs of torque (from the factory) and is quite adequate for practically anything I need to tow. So forgive me if I think the 325 ft lbs is a bit on the squeamish side for pulling the ERA, a trailer and small run-around vehicle. Speed is not my goal but neither are extended runs at 30 mph at 2600 rpms.
At the end of the day, it’s only a 188 hp @ 3800 rpm engine. The max torque value of 340 lb-ft @ 1400 rpm is basically irrelevant - that’s what transmissions are for, and the shallower the torque rise, the more gears you need, more or less. Like the once common 2-stroke 318 hp 8V71 Detroit Diesels with Road Ranger trannies with a zillion gears - because they needed them (and were horrid to drive).

Pulling a load up a hill at some speed requires power. The more you have, the faster you can move the load up the hill, assuming you can keep it up in the power band. And the M-B doesn’t have all that much to start with, though it’s been plenty good enough for my van (no trailer).

Caterpillar’s RD6 tractor from the 1940’s output about 350 lb-ft of torque (max value). But it won’t pull my van up a mountain very fast since it only put out 52 hp max @ 850 rpm (actual rated speed).
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Old 09-09-2020, 01:18 PM   #14
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Yep, get that. I am not unhappy with the MB 3.0, I just think if I do start pulling a run around car, nothing heavy around the 4000lb range with the trailer, I would like a bit more for my comfort. I also won't throw the baby out with the bath water, if upping the HP has deleterious effects on the drive train then oh well. Just my past history with diesels even the old 6.5's from GM you could really wake those up without killing them prematurely.

By the way my uncle used to drive an early 60's Mack tractor & trailer with the 13 speed road ranger. It was cool to watch him lock the steering wheel in his elbow, then operate the TWO shift levers at the same time....of course I was a kid then and didn't understand how awful that probably was to drive.
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