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Old 04-28-2022, 09:54 AM   #1
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Drained batteries in Class B

Greetings all,

Two questions:

1. Is this wait time normal in today's world?
2. Does the explanation about the battery issue sound logical?

I just purchased a 2017 Coachmen Galleria 24T and on our first trip attempting to use the battery (no hook ups), it drained in less than 24 hours. I took it to a local Camping World for repair and was told that the lead batteries were connected to AGM port and that caused the issue. We decided to replace the lead with AGM and were then told that the batteries are fused to the bracket and so that will have to be replaced as well.

Our vehicle has been at the Camping World now for 2 weeks and we have no date for completion. Is this something we can do ourselves?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. We are brand new to the RV world and excited to hit the road.
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Old 04-28-2022, 11:37 AM   #2
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1) Wait times vary by dealer. RVing has become very popular during the last 2 years of covid, so it probably is about right for a shop like CW. They're all busier these days.
2) I would doubt that explanation of why they drained so quickly. Is your fridge a 3-way by any chance? AC/DC/Propane? An absorption fridge left on DC without the engine running or plugged into shore power will kill the coach batteries very quickly. If it is a 3-way, only run the fridge on DC while traveling. Switch to propane or AC when stopped.
The part about fused to the tray/bracket sounds a bit fishy to me, as well.

Based on anecdotal experiences read on various forums, Camping World is generally not the best place to get RV repairs done, unless you really know your stuff and do some homework before you get there.

For a battery issue, you might also take it to a NAPA, O'Reilly, AutoZone or the like, and get them to have a look at it.
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:20 PM   #3
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" the lead batteries were connected to AGM port "

AGM batteries are lead acid batteries. I would hope they're connected to some kind of port.

Could be that some important detail was lost in the translation, but it can be reasonably assumed that the batteries that are there were in use for some period of time by the previous owner. So something changed - they were damaged or you're using them in a way beyond their capability.

You can prove these batteries good or bad, and while you're waiting I would highly recommend this. If they prove good, you just saved yourself replacing perfectly good batteries. It would also reveal that it's not the batteries, it's you (how you're using them). If they're bad, well then they're bad and you start with known good batteries and go on from there.

There is nothing magic about replacing a set of house batteries. If they're readily accessible, an outfit like batteries plus will do it. Or just buy them and put them in yourself. If this is a warranty deal that only CW can do, well then you're kinda stuck, so decide if the value of these batteries is worth more than the use of your unit.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:34 PM   #4
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The wait is normal. The explanation sounds strange. It wouldn't shock me that the batteries drained while you were using them and not recharging them. Depending on what was running, it's likely that was normal performance. If the charger was configured for AGM instead of lead acid, that wouldn't have an effect on the rate of drain, but might have damaged the batteries. As others have said, you can just remove the battery and test it or get it tested for free at any auto parts store. If it's bad, you can probably get a replacement there also. The batteries being fused to the bracket also sounds strange. I can't imagine a scenario where any of the above would cause that. If the batteries boiled over because the charge rate was too high, maybe that's what they mean. It would cause some corrosion, but I wouldn't describe it as fusing.

In any case, batteries are a simple thing to learn to do yourself. They're just like any other batteries you have ever used, except they're bigger. They can be tested with very inexpensive equipment and maintaining them is a simple, infrequent process. The inverter and charger on your unit are also very straightforward. It would have been simple to check the settings and the type of batteries you had to make sure they were a match.
Also, any battery place can swap out the batteries for you. You don't need a special RV mechanic to change the batteries. If you need a new bracket, you can do that yourself. If it was corroded from acid boiling over it can probably be cleaned up and reused or replaced via Amazon.
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Old 05-20-2022, 10:40 AM   #5
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I have a 2017 24Q which I got new (it was a dealer demo of sorts) in 2018. It had 2 100 aH Lead Acid batteries installed in it. The chassis battery on the sprinter (Under front footwell is AGM 100aH). The unit has a 100W solar panel on the roof connected through a Go Power solar controller which maintains both the House and Chassis batteries (It only charges the chassis battery if the house batteries are fully charged. A 100W Solar panel
gives you about 7.5 Amps in full sunlight. Thats not alot of replenishment after you take off the running load. There was also a tie from the alternator through an isolation diode and 25 amp fuse to provide some DC current to the house side when the engine runs. When the generator runs or you are plugged in there is a 55AMP 13.6 converter on the battery bus. I tool it dry camping for a few days last summer and here are the things I learned:

1) 200aH Lead Acid = 100 aH usable. You don't want to run your batteries below 50%
2) Nominal Draw on the system is about 1AMP with nothing running.
3) Fridge pulls around 3.5 Amps on 12 Volts depending on where you have it set duty cycle can be pretty high, the overhead fan on low pulls 2.5 Amps, the pump pulls 10 Amps when running, the TVs pull an Amp each, the overhead lights pull 1.5 Amps.
4) Monitoring Battery health just by voltage doesn't cut it. I added a battery monitor.

Without charging you run through 100aH pretty quick.
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Old 05-21-2022, 08:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgano7700 View Post

1) 200aH Lead Acid = 100 aH usable. You don't want to run your batteries below 50%
What makes the other 50% "unusable"?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP View Post
What makes the other 50% "unusable"?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Typically you don't want to run a Lead Acid (or AGM) battery below 50% of its capacity. So when planning I would use 50% of the capacity as the baseline. You can run them down further occasionally, but most of the manufacturer's literature I have read says that doing that regularly shortens the life of the battery.

Lithium Ion is a completely different story if you go that route. I did not, I am in the NE and like to use my rig in the winter (without water once winterized.) and I don't want to have to worry about the temperature limitation for Lithium Ion.
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgano7700 View Post
Typically you don't want to run a Lead Acid (or AGM) battery below 50% of its capacity. So when planning I would use 50% of the capacity as the baseline. You can run them down further occasionally, but most of the manufacturer's literature I have read says that doing that regularly shortens the life of the battery.



Lithium Ion is a completely different story if you go that route. I did not, I am in the NE and like to use my rig in the winter (without water once winterized.) and I don't want to have to worry about the temperature limitation for Lithium Ion.
Of course running them down below 50% will shorten their life's, but so does running them down below 75%.

Maybe we should only use 75 % as a cut off # for extra life.

Batteries are like tires, use them and they wear out, sit on them and they just rot.
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Old 06-13-2022, 04:53 PM   #9
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I just recently purchase a 2022 Travato 59K. I parked it and pressed the coach battery switch to off. Three weeks later the coach batteries and the chassis battery were dead. After getting a jump start I used the generator and also drove the motor home until I was sure both chassis and coach batteries were fully charged. $ days later I noticed the charges on the batteries had dropped a little. Ok maybe expected parasitic drain. BUT when I went to check out the coach battery switch i was surprised. With the coach battery switch off, I still had lights in the coach that worked and I could turn the Inverter on and off. If the switch was truly off I would expect a no go on lights and on the inverter working. What,s wrong with my thinking. rhb4297
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Old 06-14-2022, 06:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhb4297 View Post
With the coach battery switch off, I still had lights in the coach that worked and I could turn the Inverter on and off. If the switch was truly off I would expect a no go on lights and on the inverter working. What,s wrong with my thinking. rhb4297
What's wrong is you're not thinking like the Winnebago engineers or marketing department that decided what the battery switch should and shouldn't control. Maybe there's a combination of actions you can take in addition to or instead of the battery control to achieve storage conditions. It could very well be the only quick and easy one is to disconnect a cable or add your own switch. Or if you care to do a deep dive you can attempt to get engineering/build schematics for your RV, determine what needs to be changed and modify the system to match your expectations.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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