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Old 05-02-2022, 09:12 AM   #1
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How to replace battery in 2017 Coachmen Galleria 24T

We bought this used RV last year and now must replace the battery. Does anyone out there know how this is done? We thought we could unscrew it from below, but that is not working; the screws just spin. Is there another access point that we don't know about? You would think the manual would explain, but it does not.

Also, what is the best battery to get? Basic questions, I know, but we are brand new to the rv world. Given the trouble we are having replacing the house batteries, I am thinking lithium is the way to go so we won't have to deal with it for a very long time. We would like to boondock and the current batteries drain within 24 hours.

Thank you!
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Old 05-02-2022, 11:58 AM   #2
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Are you speaking of the Chassis or House battery?

Chassis Battery you can watch this video:

House Battery you may need to contact the factory for where they specifically mounted yours. These can be in various locations with different types of mountings.

As for the best battery this is subjective. Depends on your requirements, uses and/or desires.

For Chassis Batteries the go to now are AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat). These resist issues in the cold and keep the liquid (acid) from splashing around and provide better contact to the lead plates in the battery.

For House Batteries you have so many options. Deep Cycle, AGM, Lithium or if you have space for at least 2,4 or more you can go with 6 volt batters wired to provide 12 volts.

Good luck!
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Old 05-02-2022, 02:40 PM   #3
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Not a straight forward answer, but maybe start by reading this thread...

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f259/bat...ia-492061.html
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Old 05-08-2022, 07:08 PM   #4
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We are in the same boat…

So I have a 2016 Galaxy and had to replace the house batteries underneath on the passenger side…they had to drill through the floor to expose the head of the bolt so one had to hold it while another had to unscrew the nuts
(Perhaps visa- versa)…as to Lithium batteries, you must buy a new controller …I’m guessing you have a hundred watt solar panel on top.

I’m told you have to redo the controller when introducing lithiums…don’t forget, you get charge from your solar to the car battery and then there’s the plug in mode to consider….It’s above my pay scale. I would like to pack my entire roof with panels and a good size battery bank so we could boondock. This idea is very complex and I’ll leave it to a professional.
Good luck to you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhtolzmann View Post
We bought this used RV last year and now must replace the battery. Does anyone out there know how this is done? We thought we could unscrew it from below, but that is not working; the screws just spin. Is there another access point that we don't know about? You would think the manual would explain, but it does not.

Also, what is the best battery to get? Basic questions, I know, but we are brand new to the rv world. Given the trouble we are having replacing the house batteries, I am thinking lithium is the way to go so we won't have to deal with it for a very long time. We would like to boondock and the current batteries drain within 24 hours.

Thank you!
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Old 05-20-2022, 09:31 AM   #5
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I just did this in my 2017 Galleria. It was a nightmare. In the end I bought a nut splitter and split all 4 of the nuts that hold the battery holder under the chassis. I added steel spacers with lock screws for each bolt, above the U Frame that holds the batteries and reattached with new stainless steel nuts.

What I found was that the nuts were tightened all the way onto the collar of the bolts and the threads were partially stripped and therefor seized.

The primary problem being that the bolt collars were visible through the mounting bracket, so I added the spacer (1/4" steel plate.) the secondary problem that the bolt heads, which are underneath the fancy finished floor are not accessible nor are they spot welded to the metal floor (which is what I would have done)
All in all pretty embarrassing for whatever Coachmen engineer/mechanic was responsible for that.

My coach had 2 Diehard Lead Acid (Maint required) batteries originally installed, but you could not get to them to maintain them. One of the two lost a cell last summer and they both died over the winter.

I installed a pair of VMax AGM batteries to replace the flooded ones.I also did a handful of other upgrades. I have not gotten out yet to see how well it all is working, but on a few short drives and testing in the driveway all seems good.
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Old 05-20-2022, 12:05 PM   #6
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Let us know how it goes! I have a Coachmen Beyond, which has very similar wiring. My battery is also under the chassis in the same location. There are lithium batteries of 300 Amp Hours which are almost identical in size to the AGM, even have the terminals in about the same location. My main question will be if the generator will handle it, and if there is a fuse on the line from the generator which might blow (Ford's have a 60 amp fuse on the positive going to the coach, but I'm not sure if Coachmen runs of this or not)

If you do go lithium, I think this might be a very easy replacement for the BIM that they use. It's a DC-DC charger that would limit curren draw from the alternator while charging. Orion-TR.

PS: The AGM's are about 187 lbs, so have a jack handy to handle them.

[From the replies above, it's lucky with my battery bracket both bolt head and nut are accessible from underneath. I think I'll go out and douse them with a spray to resist corrosion right now . . .]
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Old 05-20-2022, 07:31 PM   #7
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^^^ EDIT: I did not see an edit button, so wanted to clarify: I meant Alternator, not Generator.

"My main question will be if the alternator will handle it, and if there is a fuse on the line from the alternator which might blow (Ford's have a 60 amp fuse on the positive going to the coach, but I'm not sure if Coachmen runs of this or not)"
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