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05-06-2015, 03:26 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 402
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Leveling Blocks
So we are new to a class B, but not new to motorhomes. I bought a package of leveling blocks, but got to thinking about this: With dual back wheels, if I need to raise the back end two 'levels', it will take 12 blocks - 3 per wheel. But the blocks come in packages of 10! This seems remarkably ineffective.
Thoughts?
__________________
Niel & Carol Powers
Entegra Qwest 24R
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05-06-2015, 03:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,899
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Buy some 2 x 8 lumber (or 2x6) and make a few additional blocks/ramps.
Cut the ends at a 45 deg angle to make it easier to roll onto.
No matter what you do, you will need an oddball assortment of heights.
I dont' know what kind of leveling block you have now, but hopefully the 1 3/4" high wood is taller so maybe one wood block = two store bought blocks.
Dan
__________________
2014 40QBH Phaeton DP Cummins 380HP ISL, Freightliner XC, 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk TOAD
Blue Ox Aventa tow bar, SMI Air Force One -Cave Creek, AZ.
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05-06-2015, 04:44 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 125
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05-06-2015, 05:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Rural Independence, OR
Posts: 951
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With three of these you will be able to handle most leveling situations.
https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...r-leveler.aspx
__________________
2013 Leisure Travel Vans Unity U24MB, 635 watts solar, 440 AH batteries, 2000 watt inverter, Koni struts and shocks, Hellwig rear anti-swaybar, SumoSprings front and back, 2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox baseplates, Aladdin towbar and Patriot
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05-11-2015, 03:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Wong
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Mercedes gets pretty update about leveling it using the frame. They REALLY want you to level with the wheels and blocks. So I'll figure it out that way.
__________________
Niel & Carol Powers
Entegra Qwest 24R
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05-12-2015, 08:12 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Greer, SC
Posts: 670
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Buy a couple sets of the plastic lego-type blocks. They are really compact, yet sturdy, and light. An extra set on board is no big deal. And you have the option of various heights. Always level using blocks under the tires. Scissor jacks would be pretty fiddly and perhaps dangerous.
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06-03-2015, 05:34 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Small Town USA , California
Posts: 1,349
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I always make my own blocks from 2X10 material. I usually measure the area where you can store them and make the total length a little less than that. 1/2 of that is the length for the second block. I only carry 2 of these plus 2 extra block of the 1/2 size and that's always got me level. I use a 1/4 round router but to run over the edges and that helps so splinters don't easily develop on the edges. I never cut a 45 on the front edge as the tire easily climbs the 1 1/2". I see lots of people make the mistake of putting the loose block on top and can't get up it.....always slide the loose block under the built/stacked ramp. Also not only do I screw the top block on I cover with White glue and parked on top of them while drying. This step always helps when a block dries out or cracks but they will still stay together.
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09-25-2015, 05:37 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSprinter
So we are new to a class B, but not new to motorhomes. I bought a package of leveling blocks, but got to thinking about this: With dual back wheels, if I need to raise the back end two 'levels', it will take 12 blocks - 3 per wheel. But the blocks come in packages of 10! This seems remarkably ineffective.
Thoughts?
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Hotdogs and buns
Jerry and Donna
1997 FW Bounder 35U
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09-25-2015, 07:53 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSprinter
Mercedes gets pretty update about leveling it using the frame. They REALLY want you to level with the wheels and blocks. So I'll figure it out that way.
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My experience has been that "usually" my front end is lower than the rear.
So I have never had a reason to put blocks under the rear tires.
BUT IF I DID, one option would be to turn the rig around so the front end is lower. Might not work 100% of the time, but you are right, too many blocks for the rear wheels.
Regards,
Dan
__________________
2014 40QBH Phaeton DP Cummins 380HP ISL, Freightliner XC, 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk TOAD
Blue Ox Aventa tow bar, SMI Air Force One -Cave Creek, AZ.
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09-27-2015, 12:26 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Brooklyn MI
Posts: 376
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I use plastic leveling blocks with my class A and have had good luck!!
KC
__________________
2015 Thor Challenger 37KT
Trav'ler Direct TV dish, Progressive surge protected, Magna Shield covers, RV SnapPad, 5 star, and On the go Water softener.
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09-27-2015, 12:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 14,885
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I built jack pads using 3/4" marine grade plywood. Laminated 3 layers together. They are 12" x 12" but could be any size required.
I prefer plywood over the plastic blocks.
__________________
Gordon and Janet
Tour 42QD/InTech Stacker
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10-09-2015, 08:31 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 26
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I have the same type of rig.
Xplorer 236 19' 1998
Like the "lego" system
Have two sets. They store well and can be used in so many configs.
(Front and back tires)
Travel safe
=Jim=
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