Midwest Automotive Designs (MAD) Owners Class B Group

[Briwhite]

Bryan,

I’m glad you managed to get help, I’ve left numerous messages and never got a response- what’s your secret?

[camper83]

Technically we should be going through a Dealership for service and warranty work. Problem is that Midwest is a Micro Manufacturer compared to the big guys like Winnebago, Airstream or even Pleasureway. This means that there are less opportunities for dealers to really learn the product and to embrace it. This puts more work back on to Midwest while they are trying to bring dealers up to speed. Still, some dealerships just want the sale and aren't ready to tackle the nuances of how these vans operate! Nick has been helpful to me at MW!

[archytek]

I crunched my passenger side running board and called Midwest to order a new one. She asked for photos and I sent a few. That was 5 weeks ago...I've heard nothing from them. I pulled it off and fiberglassed it myself.

[camper83]

Originally Posted by archytek

I crunched my passenger side running board and called Midwest to order a new one. She asked for photos and I sent a few. That was 5 weeks ago...I've heard nothing from them. I pulled it off and fiberglassed it myself.

You gotta stay after them. They are running at top speed as a Micro Builder. No big budgets or swollen up Customer Service Department. Not making excuses, and if they want to continue to grow they must do better but they're never going to be a Winnebago at these price points. People see the inside of these vans and most are stunned by the luxury!

[Chuck4084]

Originally Posted by TruckCamper

We have the the same High Point MW and have experienced the same issues. (We always removed the turntable when moving) - you can wedge some foam in the door......ditto with the shower door....not a perfect solution but somewhat helpful.

When the trim kit broke (in two places) I asked about a new kit...it was not worth the cost, so I took the whole thing apart. Pretty easy.

The MW is screwed to the Trim kit.
The trim kit is screwed to the cabinet - (Bad plan Midwest Automotive !)

I made new mounts for the MW from aluminum angle. Remove the case from the MW to be sure that the new mounting screws don't extend into something vital. I used three screws on each side of the MW and three to mount to the cabinet.

To prevent the MW from putting too much pressure on the cabinetry I split some pipe insulation and placed it under the feet of the MW and ensured that it was snug. DO NOT BLOCK ANY VENTS in the MW on the bottom or top!

Using the old trim kit as a template I made new one out of wood. The new trim is attached to the aluminum. There is a small gap between the trim and cabinetry (see attached pics) but it is hard to see and prevents the trim from bending and breaking. (I also added some small 'shims' at the top where the cabinetry curves.)

So far 5000 miles of (quieter) microwave goodness. (The door still rattles)

FYI - Some other notable noisemakers: The screen door (what a total waste - we replaced that with the Rolef roll up screen), the shower curtain rings, and bathroom/shower door.

There are still rattles and other annoyances...but little by little we are finding them and eliminating them.

And just FYI, a veteran RVer told me that after every trip I/we should check every nut and bolt in the ENTIRE RV....impractical but SOLID advice

Hey TruckCamper - you mentioned you replaced the screen door with a Rolef roll up screen. I need to do the same thing before the screen door rattle drives me nuts. For the life of me I can't see how to take out the existing screen door. It can't be that difficult, I must be missing something. How did you get yours out? Thanks

[TruckCamper]

I didn't do the swap. It was done by an up-fitter in Washington.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

[Chuck4084]

Originally Posted by camper83

We just bought a Midwest Passage 144. Left refrigerator on for about 16 hours while parked and battery went low. Got it back charged up but panel won't come on now. Yesterday I was able to plug in the 30 amp city power and the panel came on but today it won't activate? Yesterday the voltage was at 13.8 and solar was working fine. Turned off panel last night and now it won't start. Any suggestions?

We've had our Firefly panels fail to start and the main board needed to be reset. Here's a link to the reset procedure from Firefly. Might work, might not, but can't hurt:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaDXqt3SAIw

[Chuck4084]

Originally Posted by TruckCamper

I didn't do the swap. It was done by an up-fitter in Washington.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to get it out in one piece. Looks like the only way is to drill out the rivets.

[Northmesa92]

Just wanted to introduce myself. I am a new MAD Passage 148 owner. I purchased it used with 9500 miles at La Mesa RV in San Diego. It is a 2020 model. I have not been able to find anything on the internet that even mentions there was one in 2020. It is perhaps a prototype. Any information on it would be appreciated.

[camper83]

Hello NorthMesa92! We own a 2023(2021 chassis) Passage 144. MW has only made the campers for a few years but for 20 plus years they've made Sprinter Limo's.

We've had several issues with the MW up fitter (camper parts) but Nick at MW has been great at helping us. I have some mechanical abilities so he had a Technician get on two video calls to replace 1)Master Power button which was easy and a solenoid in the back. This could've been done by a Dealer but it was faster if I did the repairs. 2) I also replaced the Transfer Switch Box that sits on the Inverter. Again it was easier than I expected.

Finally I did have to take it to a Dealer for Tank Sensors that weren't working as well as the Fantastic Fan which had a bad switch board.

The padded luxury inside this van is second to none! It's a good looking van especially with the front spoiler and the black Off Road Rims and TA Ko2 tires!

We're still a little frustrated with some noises around the Microwave housing and/or the Screen Door mounting area (not sure what's causing the noise). But we'll stay after it until it's as good as it can be!

The Mercedes Diesel is best at speeds over 35 mph. From 35 to 80 mph this thing is quick and effortless to drive while getting 19 mpg!!!

[TruckCamper]

I just want to pile on.....while our experience with MAD and support has not been great. Nick has gone out of his way to help. He is a really good resource (great since that is his function at MD).

Camper83 - we are having a problem with the solenoid the is activated by the Master Power button. (Our panel does not come on quickly - sometimes not at all..so could be the Master Power Button as well) We have a 2021 Passage 170 Ext. I want to hear about changing out the solenoid and access to the area that holds the solenoid and inverter. (ie do I have to remove the rear bed to gain access to the solenoid and inverter. I don't see any other way.)

Perhaps some helpful info......the metal surround to our microwave completely shook itself apart. I made new ears from aluminum angle to mount the microwave more securely and fashioned a wood frame to replace the metal frame. Whenever we are on the move we take the glass plate out of the MW and store it under one of the side seats (along with the induction burner cut out) so that they don't rattle. The MW makes enough noise on its own no matter what we do.

As for the screen door - it sucks. We replaced the door with a Rolef screen door (made in Canada). Without doubt one of the best things we have done to the van. (see previous posts for other upgrades)

Our Grey, Black and Fresh water sensor are almost useless (despite the tanks being sanitized and flushed by the dealer). That is the next thing we will have repaired. The macerator is also very temperamental and has been replaced once. Best advice...nothing but bodily fluids in the black water tank.

The materials used in the van are among the best we have seen. Construction debris has been a real problem and we have been told that some of our problems are a result of poor build practices, screws and saw dust falling into places that will clog and require a lot of work to remove.

Just note: It is an RV. Use it, break it, fix, it rinse repeat.

Enjoy it...we really have despite some of the set backs.

Best of luck.

[camper83]

Hello Truck Camper. I think the solenoid may be in a different spot on your 170 vs our 144. It's under a carpeted piece of wood that's screwed down with one screw on the 144. It was fairly easy to replace but it took time because I couldn't get my hands fully into the area. But once the mounting screws were removed it was easier to get at the two cables to loosen them up. Not sure if you're still under warranty but Nick can help get you the correct solenoid for your rig! Thanks for the tip regarding the microwave. I kind of suspected that I'd need to remove it to see what's causing all the noise. We always remove the glass base while driving.

[TruckCamper]

Thank you Camper83....

Unfortunately I have to remove the bed to access the solenoid and the inverter....

More info.

I bought the Xantrex remote module for the inverter. NOTE: For the Xantrex Freedom X 3000 inverter the correct remote is the: Xantrex 808-0817-02 Please note '2' as the last digit in the part number.

Nick at MAD also noted the there is an issue with the 20 pin cable which we are still investigating.

-Keith

[PowerHousePV]

We have a new (to us) 2022 MAD Passage 148 on the Ford Transit chassis. I’ve downloaded the owners’ guide and videos from

• https://midwestautomotivedesigns.com...nual-Guide.pdf
• https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...p9UUMn6mv0bbjH

Unfortunately, some of the information they contain is not directly applicable to the Passage 148. Is there a similar set of documents/videos that are better suited to the equipment on the Passage 148?

My most pressing information needs revolve around the fresh water system.

• Where is the fresh water tank drain or drain plug located?
• Are there low-point drains for the cold and hot water sides of the system?
• Is there a winterization bypass valve for the water heater?

o If so, where is it?

o If not, is it safe to run the RV anti-freeze through the water heater?

• Is there any preparation I need to do before sanitizing the fresh water tank and fresh water distribution lines?

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me!