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Old 08-13-2017, 04:02 PM   #1
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Opinions On This Class B Camper Van?

I created another post regarding class B camper vans, but haven't gotten any responses yet.

In the meantime I've done some thinking, and it may be easier for me to buy something in good condition, although it looks like I'd have to spend a fair amount more, compared to buying something cheap with a good foundation, but that needs work, and hiring somebody to help me repair it.

I have an injury, so I'd need to hire help. I asked a couple people who I thought would be interested, but I don't know if that's going to work out.

What do you all think about this class B camper van? Is it a good deal?

https://bellingham.craigslist.org/rv...259151346.html

I talked to the owner, and it seems like everything works, and is in good condition, although she's not all that familiar with everything. Seems like her ex-husband is the one who knows more about it. One thing I need to test when I check it out is the cruise control. It has cruise control, but she didn't really know about it.

How would I go about figuring out the dry weight, weight with all the fluids etc., and the GWVR of this model?

And what would happen if you exceed the weight rating?

Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2017, 04:29 PM   #2
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First look says it would be a weekend warrior wagon if that is what you want and you are able to fully use it. The weights should be on a sticker probably on the driver door pillar. Fluids. etc are easily available on the internet based on the year of the base chassis. You can test the cruise during a test drive. No test drive, no sale.

My bigger question is how well it will suit whatever you want to do. It's not something to live in for a long period of time. You will have to be fairly agile to use it. You will find setting up and taking down the dinette every night is a real PITA. That leaves the overhead bunk for normal use. If you think you will live in it full time I think you will find it difficult and probably more expensive than you anticipate. There are multiple threads hear on attempting that.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:15 PM   #3
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Thanks for your thoughts. I'm also looking for a house to buy. The camper van would just be for traveling. However, I may want to travel for extended periods of time. I think I could make it work if the van has everything that I need to survive.

I found another van with a good foundation, for a low price, that would require a few modifications. I may go for that one, but I'd need to check it out in person too, of course.

The owners say that one's about 21 or 22 feet long, and that it's about 2 parking spaces in length. How unwieldy is that in practice? I'd like to be able to boondock etc., and not have to pay RV parks just to park. And the owner was telling me you can park it at rest stops and truck stops next to the big rigs, and nobody will say anything to you about it.

Aside from Craigslist, where should I look for class B camper vans for sale? I checked the classifieds here, but there's not much.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:39 PM   #4
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Check the ads here and on RVtrader. In fact just run a Google search on something like class B camper van or camper van.

Do a search here about boondocking, wallydocking, and free camping. That will get you into information overload. Watch for recurring themes. There are many.

The problem with a unit like that is tank size. You will need to dump and fill your water every couple of days. If you are not driving every day you will need to figure generator run time to keep your house battery up. Usually 2 hours when you get up to give you power through breakfast and top off the nights discharge. Again around dinner time for A/C, microwave and hot water as well as battery bank.

Your length is roughly the same as large full size vans and crew cab P/U's. Manageable but not in tight places.

The Bellingham Craigslist provided a general idea of where you are. I think you will find the county you pick for your house can make a big difference in cost of taxes, registration, insurance, etc. That is something you need to understand.
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:20 PM   #5
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I think the cheaper van has a 15 gallon tank and a 25 gallon grey/blackwater tank. The owner was saying I should be ok for at least a week, and I could get jugs for water.

I plan to use body wipes, and can deal with taking a shower once a week or so. I did that on a week-long camper minivan trip I did with a friend a few years ago. It worked, although now I want a space that will house everything I need to survive.

I am also thinking about having a relative in Texas register the van, if it'd be advantageous to do so, but it would live in Washington with me. I think you can do this according the website: Motorists | Two Steps. One Sticker. Texas DMV

"Special Circumstances

Out of State Motorists

If your vehicle is currently out of state and you are unable to complete a Texas vehicle inspection in order to renew your registration, you may self-certify that the vehicle is out of state and will be permitted to register online, by mail, or in person.


If you renew your vehicle registration using the out-of-state self-certification option, a remark will be placed on your vehicle record indicating that an inspection is still due. Once you return to the state, you must complete a Texas vehicle inspection within three days of arrival at your home, duty station, or destination. It is very important that you keep the VIR issued after completing your inspection in case you are stopped by law enforcement before the remark is removed from your vehicle record, which takes about 48 hours. The remark will be removed only upon payment of the state’s portion of the inspection fee and verification of inspection at your county tax office."


Another thing is that the van has had a lot of "RV" stuff removed, and has been remodeled to be a plumber's work van. Does that mean it can be classified as a regular van instead of an RV? Is an RV more expensive in terms of the taxes, registration, insurance, etc.?
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:54 PM   #6
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Washington is developing a reputation for aggressively collecting motor vehicle taxes and fees. There are a couple of threads here about it. Essentially they look for how much a unit is seen in an area. Given the increase in license plate scanners it can be done automatically. Ditto credit card records.

As a general comment trying to register out of state for tax purposes is getting harder every day. High tax states/counties have too many ways to track people. The number of ways increases frequently as the number of cameras continue to grow and database sharing expands.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:09 PM   #7
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IMHO, if you are going to buy or build up a class B conversion van, it should come from the factory as a high roof or don't buy it.

My father had a van with a fiberglass top added and it just was not nearly as rigid going down the road as it should have been. I don't mean a little bit of flex, I mean it flexed a lot.

15 gallons of water isn't much. He is probably young and healthy, so carrying water jugs isn't a problem, but your situation is different.

As a practical matter, I am a big believer in using bottled water for anything that is the least bit related to drinking or food. It isn't all that much more of an effort to think about using a bottle of water to rinse off with and then you can just skip 90% of the plumbing needed other than a drain system.

From a cost perspective, the combination of a pick up truck and small camper (used) is very competitive with a van conversion approach.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:47 PM   #8
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I know that technically it's possible, but I'm wondering if they really have the manpower to track people that aggressively. Is there a thread on this issue? Regardless, I'll call the DMVs in both states to see what they say, and proceed with what seems best.

Yeah, the only alterations I intend to do are to the interior.

Actually that guy seemed older, and I'm almost 40, but I think a lot of people think I'm in my 20s. I'm strong enough in my upper body, especially since I use forearm crutches. I think it's mainly that I'm unsteady in my legs. I think I could fill up the jugs at a store, then either get help, or push them out to the van in a cart, and maneuver them inside myself. In a pinch, I could get bottled water.

From what I understand, truck campers are the most expensive per square foot, and what I saw seemed to reflect that. And you have to buy 2 things: the truck and the camper. On the other hand, I've seen older class B vans that have supposedly been well-maintained for much less. I also like the idea of direct access to the back without having to get out. I suppose that's not the biggest deal, but I don't know how I'd feel about it in practice these days.

Does anybody know about this stuff?

Another thing is that the van has had a lot of "RV" stuff removed, and has been remodeled to be a plumber's work van. Does that mean it can be classified as a regular van instead of an RV? Is an RV more expensive in terms of the taxes, registration, insurance, etc.?
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:57 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BreakAes View Post

I am also thinking about having a relative in Texas register the van, if it'd be advantageous to do so, but it would live in Washington with me. I think you can do this according the website: Motorists | Two Steps. One Sticker. Texas DMV

"Special Circumstances

Out of State Motorists
I would NOT try to register out of state.. WA takes a VERY dim view and can fine you as much as you will pay for the rig....
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:19 PM   #10
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I found the thread: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/regis...es-287848.html

The van I'm leaning towards now is very inexpensive, so I'll probably just register it in Washington anyway.
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:15 AM   #11
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I know that technically it's possible, but I'm wondering if they really have the manpower to track people that aggressively. Is there a thread on this issue? Regardless, I'll call the DMVs in both states to see what they say, and proceed with what seems best.
That is the point. Hardly any manpower involved. It's all done by computers sharing data then filtering through it. It's not free but the fines more than cover the cost of the computer plus some money for serving papers. Everything after that adds on to the cost.
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Old 08-14-2017, 05:35 AM   #12
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The one thing I am surprised that no one has mentioned is the age of that camper van. I am not sure the exact years of that body style, however I had a 1989 camper van on that body style, I think they changed to a more aerodynamic looking front end in 91 or maybe 92. We are talking 25+ years old, pre OBD-II diagnostic port which was introduced in 96, which means finding a mechanic these days that has a clue how to work on it may be challenging. As I recall the thing I hated about that van was how cramped the drivers side foot well was, the next one I owned was a '94 or maybe '95 model on a GMC van chassis which had a much more room for the drivers feet, and drove much better than my '89 Ford econoline chassis.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:41 PM   #13
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Tomorrow I'll be going to look at this one: https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/198...192F-122861254 It seems really promising. The owner told me he did a lot of work on it, and it's in good condition. I should have somebody who can help me remodel the interior.

Any thoughts on it? If it really is in good condition like he said, and I'd just need to do a few modifications to make it work for me, it seems like it'd be a really good deal at that price.
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:25 AM   #14
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The one thing I am surprised that no one has mentioned is the age of that camper van. I am not sure the exact years of that body style, however I had a 1989 camper van on that body style, I think they changed to a more aerodynamic looking front end in 91 or maybe 92. We are talking 25+ years old, pre OBD-II diagnostic port which was introduced in 96, which means finding a mechanic these days that has a clue how to work on it may be challenging. As I recall the thing I hated about that van was how cramped the drivers side foot well was, the next one I owned was a '94 or maybe '95 model on a GMC van chassis which had a much more room for the drivers feet, and drove much better than my '89 Ford econoline chassis.
Thanks, I'll just have to see how I feel when I try it out.

If the Econoline van is in good shape, is $7,000 a good price for it with 83,190 miles?

I saw the $1,000 Transvan from 1980 today, and it was a mess. I passed on it.

I think I know what you mean about the cramped foot well, because one problem I had was with the fact that the seat wouldn't go back far enough to make accessing the controls ok for me with my injury. It was difficult to keep the right amount of pressure on the accelerator, and I think if the seat went back further, it would have been easier. I'm not for sure with the way that old van is though.

The brake pedal required more force than I would have liked. I think the accelerator was more of a pain in the ass, but both issues put together made things really suck. It's funny that I was told it was in good shape. I think the owner was being honest about what he felt, but for example at the end of the test drive when I turned the steering wheel to the left, it got really hard to turn, and would pop the transmission out of drive and into neutral!
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