Roadtrek E-trek question

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by MWeiner

OK, we saved money purchasing a used RV, but, when we were at 8,800 feet in the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, our absorption refrigerator failed to operate and exactly when our generator failed causing us scramble for ice and ice chests to save our food...this is no way to spend time on vacation.

Now we have a compressor refrigerator that only takes 2.2 amps per hour, even at 24 hours, that's 52.8 amps. I have a solar panel system and produce at least 30 amps per day.

In addition I have a Victron 712 Bluetooth battery monitor synced to my Android phone. It will send me an alert if my dual 6 volt AGM batteries get too low.

I have a 7 cuft compressor fridge/freezer that sounds similar to yours in power draw. I'm currently (no pun) in the process of upgrading to 2 LiFePO4 100ah batteries to help with it's care and maintenance. I've only got 300W/15A of solar, plus driving/plugged in/generator, but that should easily handle replenishing them as they're pretty much idiot proof (good thing). No need to recharge to 100% after use, unless you take them down to zero SoC. So, we'll see how that all works out. If my batteries get too low, my inverter shuts off, so that works for me. Might have to adjust that setting, now that i think of it.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by RossWilliams

We use a small backpacking camp stove as both a backup and to avoid cooking inside unless the weather is bad. We have run out of fuel for the stove more often than we have run out of battery juice.



Obviously an all-electric system needs more batteries and some convenient way to charge them. Between the underhood generator and the solar panel, we have yet to have a serious problem keeping them charged. Sub-zero cold weather has been the biggest problem. The batteries lose capacity and the solar panel is not at its most productive in the winter.

I'm confused by the references to the E-Trek and AGM batteries. I thought the E-Treks were all lithium batteries?
Also, do you own an E-Trek?
Sorry, more confusion.

Lithiums lose far less charge when idle and in the cold, than any FLA/AGM combination based on current technology, as far as I know.
I live, and sometimes find myself stopping, where the temps can be below freezing for much of the fall/winter/spring. To that end I'm installing Relion's RB100-LT models, which can be discharged at sub freezing temps as most LiFePO4 batteries can, but that can also be charged at lower than 32F temperatures. They state the LT Series can be charged at temps as low as -4F / -20C. They utilize some of the charging current to heat the batteries internally, and then the BMS allows charging to start/resume.
Agree about the solar panels lower efficiency in colder weather, and when the sun is lower in the sky, if you can even see it. Redundant charging options are the obvious answer, but they will also vary in efficiency and ease of use.

The age old problem with running heavy loads off of batteries has always been not how much capacity do you need/have, but more so, how do you replenish the power you've used, quickly and efficiently?

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

I have a 7 cuft compressor fridge/freezer that sounds similar to yours in power draw. I'm currently (no pun) in the process of upgrading to 2 LiFePO4 100ah batteries to help with it's care and maintenance. I've only got 300W/15A of solar, plus driving/plugged in/generator, but that should easily handle replenishing them as they're pretty much idiot proof (good thing). No need to recharge to 100% after use, unless you take them down to zero SoC. So, we'll see how that all works out. If my batteries get too low, my inverter shuts off, so that works for me. Might have to adjust that setting, now that i think of it.

My Zamp Solar Panel system is 160watt and works fine.
I have no desire to switch to Lithium batteries, and I believe it's not easily done without the proper wiring?? Or, at least someone told me this???

Here's a picture what my meter looks like....

[RossWilliams]

"I'm confused by the references to the E-Trek and AGM batteries. I thought the E-Treks were all lithium batteries?"

Not the early Etrek models. Through 2016 I think, they had eight 6 volt AGM batteries with 9600 WH. I have a 2015 Etrek. The confusion is that when they switched to lithium they also made lithiums available as an upgrade to other models and put the Etrek name on the optional lithium upgrade as well as the Etrek model.

My guess is that putting 8 AGM batteries in a Mercedes 2500 Sprinter, much less a Ram Promaster, was not possible given weight considerations. So the move to lithium was likely driven by wanting to offer it in all their models, not just the Etrek and other 3500 Sprinter models. But that is just speculation.


"Lithiums lose far less charge when idle and in the cold"

That is true I think, but, as you note, you can't use most of them at all below -4F and can't charge them below 32F. If you live where -10F or lower is the high on occasion during the winter, that makes them suspect.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by RossWilliams

"I'm confused by the references to the E-Trek and AGM batteries. I thought the E-Treks were all lithium batteries?"

Not the early Etrek models. Through 2016 I think, they had eight 6 volt AGM batteries with 9600 WH. I have a 2015 Etrek. The confusion is that when they switched to lithium they also made lithiums available as an upgrade to other models and put the Etrek name on the optional lithium upgrade as well as the Etrek model.

My guess is that putting 8 AGM batteries in a Mercedes 2500 Sprinter, much less a Ram Promaster, was not possible given weight considerations. So the move to lithium was likely driven by wanting to offer it in all their models, not just the Etrek and other 3500 Sprinter models. But that is just speculation.


"Lithiums lose far less charge when idle and in the cold"

That is true I think, but, as you note, you can't use most of them at all below -4F and can't charge them below 32F. If you live where -10F or lower is the high on occasion during the winter, that makes them suspect.

My memory is bad on a good day, so that info about early E-Treks having 6V AGMs isn't too much of a surprise. Honestly, since 2016 when we first started to upsize our motorhome selection, I haven't followed the classbforum.com chatter as much as I used to when I was a Roadtrek owner, and I had forgotten when the E-Trek was even born. I do recall the relentless Roadtrek bashing you mentioned earlier. I think Roadtrek's methodology of rolling out their new "proprietary/top secret technology" as a teaser, just didn't go over well with the B van illuminati. I may have confused the E-Trek with some of the first Advanced RV models when they first appeared around the same time. I think the ARV units all came with lithium batteries in large (huge by my standards) configurations, unless the customer wanted something else.
Yes, absolutely on the weight of a large lead acid battery bank in any Sprinter based RV, but at least the upfitter can't/doesn't usually add so much crap that they use up most of the OCCC between the standing curb weight and the GVWR. In the B van conversions, I mean. My Navion had just under 1500 lbs of OCCC, after Winnebago used up the rest, but that's the price we paid for the Sprinter based motorhome, and we can accept that.
My Navion came with 2 cheap dual purpose NAPA batteries, and they weigh 30 lbs more than the 2 Relion RB100-Low Temperature replacements I'm swapping in next week. The factory installs are rated at 62 Ah each, and the replacements are 100Ah each. I'm hoping it will all work out OK. I don't typically camp in snow (except for once at Bryce Canyon in March), so I think the low temperature enhancements on the new batteries will cover off most cold weather situations we're ever likely to encounter. If it gets below 25F where we are, for more than a few hours overnight, we're heading farther south asap. I just wanted the cushion of being able to charge at a relatively high rate of current, below freezing, which is what Relion's LT Series promises.

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

My memory is bad on a good day, so that info about early E-Treks having 6V AGMs isn't too much of a surprise. Honestly, since 2016 when we first started to upsize our motorhome selection, I haven't followed the classbforum.com chatter as much as I used to when I was a Roadtrek owner, and I had forgotten when the E-Trek was even born. I do recall the relentless Roadtrek bashing you mentioned earlier. I think Roadtrek's methodology of rolling out their new "proprietary/top secret technology" as a teaser, just didn't go over well with the B van illuminati. I may have confused the E-Trek with some of the first Advanced RV models when they first appeared around the same time. I think the ARV units all came with lithium batteries in large (huge by my standards) configurations, unless the customer wanted something else.
Yes, absolutely on the weight of a large lead acid battery bank in any Sprinter based RV, but at least the upfitter can't/doesn't usually add so much crap that they use up most of the OCCC between the standing curb weight and the GVWR. In the B van conversions, I mean. My Navion had just under 1500 lbs of OCCC, after Winnebago used up the rest, but that's the price we paid for the Sprinter based motorhome, and we can accept that.
My Navion came with 2 cheap dual purpose NAPA batteries, and they weigh 30 lbs more than the 2 Relion RB100-Low Temperature replacements I'm swapping in next week. The factory installs are rated at 62 Ah each, and the replacements are 100Ah each. I'm hoping it will all work out OK. I don't typically camp in snow (except for once at Bryce Canyon in March), so I think the low temperature enhancements on the new batteries will cover off most cold weather situations we're ever likely to encounter. If it gets below 25F where we are, for more than a few hours overnight, we're heading farther south asap. I just wanted the cushion of being able to charge at a relatively high rate of current, below freezing, which is what Relion's LT Series promises.

Aside from the issues of the roof seams on the Navion, I decided to go for the Class B Sprinter 3500 with the dual wheels and tires, for the extra weight capacity. It was a sacrifice for the extra space, a trade off. I also was grateful for the two 6 volt AGM sealed batteries that are 224 amp hours...... I'm really surprised that your Winnebago came standard with cheap batteries.....

Was it your only option to get the two 100 amp hours batteries? Why couldn't you get a higher capacity?

On my Sprinter the OCCC is over 2,500 pounds.

Yes, I think that I heard that the AGMs were used on the early E-Trek models..... Can you even upgrade to lithium? Or, do you need to have it wired to be compatible?

Someone told me that, but, heck, I'm not sure.?

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by MWeiner

Aside from the issues of the roof seams on the Navion, I decided to go for the Class B Sprinter 3500 with the dual wheels and tires, for the extra weight capacity. It was a sacrifice for the extra space, a trade off. I also was grateful for the two 6 volt AGM sealed batteries that are 224 amp hours...... I'm really surprised that your Winnebago came standard with cheap batteries.....

Was it your only option to get the two 100 amp hours batteries? Why couldn't you get a higher capacity?

On my Sprinter the OCCC is over 2,500 pounds.

Yes, I think that I heard that the AGMs were used on the early E-Trek models..... Can you even upgrade to lithium? Or, do you need to have it wired to be compatible?

Someone told me that, but, heck, I'm not sure.?

Roof seams? What are you talking about? It's a one piece fiberglass roof. There are no seams.

The 2 X 100Ah batteries are drop ins. No special wiring required. (Who have you been talking to about upgrading to lithium?) They're GR31 specced, fit in the battery bay, and all I have to do is connect them, and reset my Zamp charge controller to the Lithium charge profile, and I'm good to go. The PD9245 and alternator will help recharge, but aren't necessary. These Relion Low Temperature Series batteries can charge at much higher current rates below freezing than normal lithium batteries, according to the Relion website. If they don't, they'll be on their way back. My new 200Ah total is almost 100% usable, at full voltage discharge, and doesn't have to be recharged immediately, unless I deplete it to 0% SoC. Your 6V golf cart batteries are 50% usable (that's 112Ah), that means you only have half the total amp hours available for use, before you start to degrade them, unless you recharge them to 100% after use. 6V golf carts do/should have to be recharged as soon as possible after that level of discharge, to help preserve their efficiency and longevity.
Winnebago (and most other upfitters) don't always use the best OEM throw away equipment, to keep retail prices lower, and most people will want to fiddle with that stuff anyway, after they buy. I know I did.
You do have more OCCC than my Navion. No question. I have more room and a dry bath, but that's what we wanted, and were willing to compromise on OCCC to get it.

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

Roof seams? What are you talking about? It's a one piece fiberglass roof. There are no seams.

The 2 X 100Ah batteries are drop ins. No special wiring required. (Who have you been talking to about upgrading to lithium?) They're GR31 specced, fit in the battery bay, and all I have to do is connect them, and reset my Zamp charge controller to the Lithium charge profile, and I'm good to go. The PD9245 and alternator will help recharge, but aren't necessary. These Relion Low Temperature Series batteries can charge at much higher current rates below freezing than normal lithium batteries, according to the Relion website. If they don't, they'll be on their way back. My new 200Ah total is almost 100% usable, at full voltage discharge, and doesn't have to be recharged immediately, unless I deplete it to 0% SoC. Your 6V golf cart batteries are 50% usable (that's 112Ah), that means you only have half the total amp hours available for use, before you start to degrade them, unless you recharge them to 100% after use. 6V golf carts do/should have to be recharged as soon as possible after that level of discharge, to help preserve their efficiency and longevity.
Winnebago (and most other upfitters) don't always use the best OEM throw away equipment, to keep retail prices lower, and most people will want to fiddle with that stuff anyway, after they buy. I know I did.
You do have more OCCC than my Navion. No question. I have more room and a dry bath, but that's what we wanted, and were willing to compromise on OCCC to get it.

Okay, when we went shopping for an RV, I test drove four models; a Galleria, Navion, Fuze, and my Roadtrek. While the Galleria was just as nice as my Roadtrek, there were certain features my wife didn't like.....

The Fuze felt and looked cheap, had a very noisy 5 cylinder engine that was supposed to be more powerful than the Mercedes Benz 3 litre, it was a 3.2 FIVE....it didn't feel as smooth. I don't know... Also, the front driver's compartment was a constipated mess of obstruction with an oversized center console making it necessary to be a contortionist to get out of the seat and walk back to the rear... what a mess. The driver's seat could not swivel.

And, the only model available for us to look at was the twin beds....

Worse still was the OCCC and towing capacity.....

Anyway, when we were considering the Navion, I asked them about the "roof warranty" and they told me that the roof had a 10 years warranty... but, because it was fiberglass, I had to check the seams because they were not guaranteed, yes, the sales team brought this up right in the showroom... what else did I need to hear....?

They said just climb up on the roof... and check it out or fix it..... It was a major turn off....

That coupled with the "tail wagging" on turns, plus the lower price of the used RV, was enough for me to consider the used model over the brand new one..

Let me ask you this, I replaced my shocks and antisway bar around 40,000 miles.... I had a lot of vibration and shaking over speed bumps making my cabinets rattle... After I got the new suspension installed the RV drives 💯 percent better... more stable going in and out of driveways and over speed bumps.....

Do you still have the original suspension??

Finally, I'm getting around 20 MPG if I'm driving around 60 MPH on the road... I find it's more comfortable going slower and have more control. What's your consistent MPG in the Navion?

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by MWeiner

Okay, when we went shopping for an RV, I test drove four models; a Galleria, Navion, Fuze, and my Roadtrek. While the Galleria was just as nice as my Roadtrek, there were certain features my wife didn't like.....

The Fuze felt and looked cheap, had a very noisy 5 cylinder engine that was supposed to be more powerful than the Mercedes Benz 3 litre, it was a 3.2 FIVE....it didn't feel as smooth. I don't know... Also, the front driver's compartment was a constipated mess of obstruction with an oversized center console making it necessary to be a contortionist to get out of the seat and walk back to the rear... what a mess. The driver's seat could not swivel.

And, the only model available for us to look at was the twin beds....

Worse still was the OCCC and towing capacity.....

Anyway, when we were considering the Navion, I asked them about the "roof warranty" and they told me that the roof had a 10 years warranty... but, because it was fiberglass, I had to check the seams because they were not guaranteed, yes, the sales team brought this up right in the showroom... what else did I need to hear....?

They said just climb up on the roof... and check it out or fix it..... It was a major turn off....

That coupled with the "tail wagging" on turns, plus the lower price of the used RV, was enough for me to consider the used model over the brand new one..

Let me ask you this, I replaced my shocks and antisway bar around 40,000 miles.... I had a lot of vibration and shaking over speed bumps making my cabinets rattle... After I got the new suspension installed the RV drives �� percent better... more stable going in and out of driveways and over speed bumps.....

Do you still have the original suspension??

Finally, I'm getting around 20 MPG if I'm driving around 60 MPH on the road... I find it's more comfortable going slower and have more control. What's your consistent MPG in the Navion?

Annual roof inspections are normal. Most class A/C manufacturers require them to keep the warranty in good standing. Not as critical on class B vans, as they might only have a few spots where sealant is used.

The Fuse was built on a Ford Transit chassis. Yes, low towing capacity. Beyond that, I've never even really looked at them, so I can't help you there. I did own a Sunstar that had Ford V10 and a similarly challenging cockpit area, that was noisy, and we got rid of it after one trip.

Mine is a 2018, so yes, all original underneath. No problems, except for some occasional curb roll, but that's it. I'm toying with adding some Sumo Springs to see if that helps.

Towing our Wrangler, around 13mpg, running solo around 15mpg. Speed does directly affect mpg in the Sprinter, to a degree. Faster, lower - slower, higher.

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

Annual roof inspections are normal. Most class A/C manufacturers require them to keep the warranty in good standing. Not as critical on class B vans, as they might only have a few spots where sealant is used.

The Fuse was built on a Ford Transit chassis. Yes, low towing capacity. Beyond that, I've never even really looked at them, so I can't help you there. I did own a Sunstar that had Ford V10 and a similarly challenging cockpit area, that was noisy, and we got rid of it after one trip.

Mine is a 2018, so yes, all original underneath. No problems, except for some occasional curb roll, but that's it. I'm toying with adding some Sumo Springs to see if that helps.

Towing our Wrangler, around 13mpg, running solo around 15mpg. Speed does directly affect mpg in the Sprinter, to a degree. Faster, lower - slower, higher.

Are you saying that I could just replace my AGMs with lithium batteries and not have to look at the wiring system? I know that they have some advantages and are lighter in weight. You're right about the 50 percent capacity, so, you can go "lower" on the state of charge???

Even though my Zamp Solar Panel system has a meter I can look at, it doesn't link to my cellphone or give me an alert/alarm......

You are so right about the speed and mileage.... faster, lower MPG....62-65 seems to be the sweet spot for cruising. Of course it's worse climbing uphill, but, at least the diesel engine is pretty quiet overall..... my gas car climbing up very steep grades has to rev high and it can be noiser than the diesel......

Ouch, one trip in the Sunstar??? I hope you didn't take a huge bath on that? I'll bet that your gas V10 was pretty noisy climbing up steep mountain passes, while it's a pretty big engine, it still needs a lot of RPMs to develop maximum power and torque. Isn't that correct? Plus, the gasoline engines suck a lot of fuel. ..I'm sure that was not good.

Check out Super Steer in Grants Pass, Oregon for some guidance on the suspension.... they can either send you the parts if you decide to to your own work or send it to your RV shop..... I don't know if you are confident in doing suspension work or do you even work generally on your rig.

I have my RV serviced professionally .... I don't work on my RV....

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by MWeiner

Are you saying that I could just replace my AGMs with lithium batteries and not have to look at the wiring system? I know that they have some advantages and are lighter in weight. You're right about the 50 percent capacity, so, you can go "lower" on the state of charge???

Even though my Zamp Solar Panel system has a meter I can look at, it doesn't link to my cellphone or give me an alert/alarm......

You are so right about the speed and mileage.... faster, lower MPG....62-65 seems to be the sweet spot for cruising. Of course it's worse climbing uphill, but, at least the diesel engine is pretty quiet overall..... my gas car climbing up very steep grades has to rev high and it can be noiser than the diesel......

Ouch, one trip in the Sunstar??? I hope you didn't take a huge bath on that? I'll bet that your gas V10 was pretty noisy climbing up steep mountain passes, while it's a pretty big engine, it still needs a lot of RPMs to develop maximum power and torque. Isn't that correct? Plus, the gasoline engines suck a lot of fuel. ..I'm sure that was not good.

Check out Super Steer in Grants Pass, Oregon for some guidance on the suspension.... they can either send you the parts if you decide to to your own work or send it to your RV shop..... I don't know if you are confident in doing suspension work or do you even work generally on your rig.

I have my RV serviced professionally .... I don't work on my RV....

I wouldn't suggest that you simply swap out your AGMs for lithium, without doing some research, but if the charging setup you have now works for AGM batteries, it should work for lithium, and if you have a ZAMP ZS30A solar charge controller, it has a lithium charge setting that will take care of whatever the converter/charger can't. It's not rocket science, you just need to do your homework.

Yes on "going lower" with lithium. Most of the stated capacity on a LiFePO4 battery is usable. If it's rated at 100Ah, you can deplete it very low, say to 20% SoC remaining, and you don't have to completely recharge it after use. If you take it to 0% SoC, it's recommended that it be recharged asap, or you may compromise the future charge cycles available.
I'll have 200Ah available for use after my upgrade, but it's not likely I'll ever get close to using that much. My rooftop solar should keep them topped up, even in colder weather, as I mentioned.

I tend to cruise around 63mph give or take, to get those numbers.

No bath, traded it in where we bought it with low mileage and got a high trade in number on the Navion. No worries.
Yes it was noisy, yes it sucked fuel when it revved up into it's power curve between 3500-4500 rpm, going up hill, accelerating/merging into traffic, or any other situation where it required more power, it got louder and the gas mileage dropped to almost zero mpg. It was roomier than any other coach we've owned, and that was nice.

Typically no, unless it's really straight forward stuff, like battery upgrades. I would try almost anything on it, that doesn't require lifting it or drilling or otherwise modifying the chassis physically. Sumo Springs, I believe, don't require any drilling to install, so I might try that, too. Or, I can get them installed across the river in Saginaw, at a shop up there I've used before. Oil changes happen less frequently, but I use a MB shop for that sort of stuff while I'm under warranty.

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

I wouldn't suggest that you simply swap out your AGMs for lithium, without doing some research, but if the charging setup you have now works for AGM batteries, it should work for lithium, and if you have a ZAMP ZS30A solar charge controller, it has a lithium charge setting that will take care of whatever the converter/charger can't. It's not rocket science, you just need to do your homework.

Yes on "going lower" with lithium. Most of the stated capacity on a LiFePO4 battery is usable. If it's rated at 100Ah, you can deplete it very low, say to 20% SoC remaining, and you don't have to completely recharge it after use. If you take it to 0% SoC, it's recommended that it be recharged asap, or you may compromise the future charge cycles available.
I'll have 200Ah available for use after my upgrade, but it's not likely I'll ever get close to using that much. My rooftop solar should keep them topped up, even in colder weather, as I mentioned.

I tend to cruise around 63mph give or take, to get those numbers.

No bath, traded it in where we bought it with low mileage and got a high trade in number on the Navion. No worries.
Yes it was noisy, yes it sucked fuel when it revved up into it's power curve between 3500-4500 rpm, going up hill, accelerating/merging into traffic, or any other situation where it required more power, it got louder and the gas mileage dropped to almost zero mpg. It was roomier than any other coach we've owned, and that was nice.

Typically no, unless it's really straight forward stuff, like battery upgrades. I would try almost anything on it, that doesn't require lifting it or drilling or otherwise modifying the chassis physically. Sumo Springs, I believe, don't require any drilling to install, so I might try that, too. Or, I can get them installed across the river in Saginaw, at a shop up there I've used before. Oil changes happen less frequently, but I use a MB shop for that sort of stuff while I'm under warranty.

I have a vague recollection about talking with a battery supplier at Full River. They are a battery manufacturer.
Seems like I did inquire about lithium batteries and at the time he told me that the lithium battery was at least twice the price of the AGM ....AGM batteries are glass mat batteries, not lead acid and do last longer than really inexpensive batteries. Yes, I know that they can't be discharged as much, but, they are deep cycle 6 volt batteries.... and I have a way to be informed about the state of charge. You're probably right about me being able to switch them out. My Zamp Solar Panel system and controller has the option for lithium batteries. I just wasn't sure about the wiring in the RV? I can certainly call and ask Roadtrek now that they are back up and running.

Glad you were able to "recover" from your turning over the Sunstar....way to go. Yes, 63 MPH.... that's good. Whenever we take roadtrips in the RV I have to alot extra time.

Call these guys at Super Steer... they are quite knowledgeable and will help you diagnose any stuff your concerned about with handling over the phone.... they really know their stuff. Installing shocks is something I would only have a professional do.... unless you are supremely confident. And, my RV shop had to remove and replace my exhaust system to install the antisway bar. They did it, I don't know how difficult that was, but they didn't expect that and said it took extra time, more than they figured or charged me for. I think that the total labor was around $700 for the shocks, antisway and trackbar.
Made a 100 percent difference.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by MWeiner

I have a vague recollection about talking with a battery supplier at Full River. They are a battery manufacturer.
Seems like I did inquire about lithium batteries and at the time he told me that the lithium battery was at least twice the price of the AGM ....AGM batteries are glass mat batteries, not lead acid and do last longer than really inexpensive batteries. Yes, I know that they can't be discharged as much, but, they are deep cycle 6 volt batteries.... and I have a way to be informed about the state of charge. You're probably right about me being able to switch them out. My Zamp Solar Panel system and controller has the option for lithium batteries. I just wasn't sure about the wiring in the RV? I can certainly call and ask Roadtrek now that they are back up and running.

Glad you were able to "recover" from your turning over the Sunstar....way to go. Yes, 63 MPH.... that's good. Whenever we take roadtrips in the RV I have to alot extra time.

Call these guys at Super Steer... they are quite knowledgeable and will help you diagnose any stuff your concerned about with handling over the phone.... they really know their stuff. Installing shocks is something I would only have a professional do.... unless you are supremely confident. And, my RV shop had to remove and replace my exhaust system to install the antisway bar. They did it, I don't know how difficult that was, but they didn't expect that and said it took extra time, more than they figured or charged me for. I think that the total labor was around $700 for the shocks, antisway and trackbar.
Made a 100 percent difference.

AGMs are lead acid, just that the lead/acid gel is infused into the glass mats between the plates to keep it contact with them. I had some, and they were state of the art before lithium in most applications.

You could probably upgrade to lithium, if you wanted to.
Check out these prices, I think they're typical. The number of charge/discharge cycles available in a lithium battery is often 10 times that of any kind of lead acid battery. That's one of the offsets for the price, greater life span. Also zero maintenance, mount them in any aspect, more consistent voltage supplied during discharge, faster recharge time. There are more.
https://relionbattery.com/products/lithium

My coach rides fine for now. If I decide it needs help, I'll head up to Saginaw.

[MWeiner]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

AGMs are lead acid, just that the lead/acid gel is infused into the glass mats between the plates to keep it contact with them. I had some, and they were state of the art before lithium in most applications.

You could probably upgrade to lithium, if you wanted to.
Check out these prices, I think they're typical. The number of charge/discharge cycles available in a lithium battery is often 10 times that of any kind of lead acid battery. That's one of the offsets for the price, greater life span. Also zero maintenance, mount them in any aspect, more consistent voltage supplied during discharge, faster recharge time. There are more.
https://relionbattery.com/products/lithium

My coach rides fine for now. If I decide it needs help, I'll head up to Saginaw.

Thanks for the clarification of the AGMs, I understand. What I do like is that they are all sealed and need no attention.

All right, you can certainly check out the suspension anywhere, these guys can respond to questions you may have based upon your experience behind the wheel.

On the lithium batteries link you sent me, I noticed that they are 12 volts, no 6 volts at all....interesting. Maybe that would work??

Right now, my batteries are fine....I guess I can look at it later.