Skid Wheels for STEEP driveway ??

[WV John]

I have a Class B rig (Regency Ultra Brougham). If I had designed it I would not have so completely exposed the waste dump tube on the back corner -- I'm always concerned I going to rip it off !!
That said my real problem is just getting the rig up into my driveway! The first time we came home after buying it I drove up through the yard but if the grass is wet that is not an option as I later found out. I ended up building ramps which btw probably couldn't be any less high (they are a bit more than 6 inches in the middle) to have comfortable clearance!

My question will skid wheels like these that I have listed below allow me to clear such a drastic clearance (I have never used or and any of these) ???
I am attaching pics of my rig and the ramps and the driveway as well.

If I have to keep using the ramps I might end up with back surgery! They weigh more than 75lbs a piece. I have to put them in the truck and drive them down our long steep driveway -- a real pain in the fanny!!

Also , with the ramps, I have pulled straight into the driveway. I have read that many people "back in" when going into steep driveways, but the driveway is so steep I'm not sure the rig would back up - it seems to bog down , like the transmission is slipping). Would you guys recommend backing in or pulling in assuming the skid wheels might be an option??


https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Skid-Whe...48-979014.html

[TandW]

Had that same type of street curbing that extended across the drive entrance. PITA. Only needed two short 2x10s laid perpendicular to drive curbing to prevent scraping while backing up.

[WV John]

Originally Posted by TandW

Had that same type of street curbing that extended across the drive entrance. PITA. Only needed two short 2x10s laid perpendicular to drive curbing to prevent scraping while backing up.

Admittedly it is possible that the ramps are over kill but it seemed that they were required , not because of the weird curbing, but because of the steepness of the driveway. Any experience with the skid wheels?

[TandW]

Originally Posted by WV John

Admittedly it is possible that the ramps are over kill but it seemed that they were required , not because of the weird curbing, but because of the steepness of the driveway. Any experience with the skid wheels?

No. The Allegro is the one I had problems with. The View we travel in now has simple V-shaped skidders that occasionally scrape, probably only because they are much lower than anything else back there.

[Winterbagoal]

If you only need an inch or two of chassis lift, why not look into adding air adjustable shocks or air bags? It might let you clear the approach, and improve the ride and handling, too.

[stallsmi]

We had a trailer with low clearance. Metal skid wheels attached to the frame were inexpensive and did the trick.

[jacwjames]

My old driveway was like that and I found it was better to back in with both the Class C & the Class A DP we currently have.

I did install a set of skid roller but mine are different. They do help and if you have trouble in your driveway you will probably have problems in other places (think gas stations etc) that they would help in.

[IMDiesel]

WV John
The problem I would have with skid wheels is installing them in a way that doesn't compound the problem, by lowering your rear contact point even more.Thus making contact when you normally wouldn't causing UN-necessary strain on your frame.
Can't tell by the pictures but I think about a dozen bags of Quickcreet cement could permanently replace the ramps to fill in the dip. Of course water drainage along the curb may be an issue.Or not.

Good Luck.

[WV John]

Originally Posted by IMDiesel

WV John
The problem I would have with skid wheels is installing them in a way that doesn't compound the problem, by lowering your rear contact point even more.Thus making contact when you normally wouldn't causing UN-necessary strain on your frame.
Can't tell by the pictures but I think about a dozen bags of Quickcreet cement could permanently replace the ramps to fill in the dip. Of course water drainage along the curb may be an issue.Or not.

Good Luck.

So assuming I tried the Quickcreet idea - how would you go about doing this? Would you make forms and thne pour the Quickcreet or were you envisioning something else?? I tried 16x16 pavers today and een though they were on the level ground many of them cracked!

Thanks

[Isaac-1]

I have the larger 6 inch size of Ultra Fab swivel skid wheels (rated for class A up to 34 ft) on my 17,000 GVWR 28 ft class A, this is after breaking one of the 4 inch skid wheels on my first trip with them I think the first time it touched the ground pulling out of a visitor center, so far so good after 10,000 plus miles with the 6 inch, though they do drop down lower than needed due to their size, I might have been better off with the 5 inch model.

[IMDiesel]

Originally Posted by WV John

So assuming I tried the Quickcreet idea - how would you go about doing this? Would you make forms and thne pour the Quickcreet or were you envisioning something else?? I tried 16x16 pavers today and een though they were on the level ground many of them cracked!

Thanks

WV John,
Pavers are subject to individual loads and will break{as you know}. While bagged cement will work as a single unit when cured. It will also crack and break apart. But the severity of the separation will be reduced with a steel support IE: rebar, But rebar is too thick for this application so a wire should be used. Local Hardware stores should have what you need. Some people have even had success with bundled or crumpled chicken wire. Something to tie it all together. Don't over do it. And expect cracks anyway.

Maybe someone with professional cement experience can chime in.
Depending on the effort and quality of material used will determine how permanent a solution this is.

As far as forms I would be inclined to not use them, but with 6" in the center of depth you may need some support as the cement would probably not hold that slump. It's gotta have enough water mixed in to work so it will probably run at 6"?
And just to be clear I was thinking TWO runs and not the whole with of the entry, As that would be much more cement. But that might be cleaner looking.

Hope this helps.

[PalmSprings]

Skid wheels have to be sturdy enough to take the pressure (psi) and it can easily be enough to break or fx wheels and their swivel frame. Also,youll soon discover that youl be grounding out more often cause the wheels will be
6 to 10 inches closer to the pavement/concrete
If you can go solid steel plate aka skid plate, mucho better. Not going to tear you rig or the driveway if the plate built well and has a strong structure attachment.. Scratches yes,but thats it. Might have to have , as just 1 example, heavy eq fab shop or 2 take a look and see if it can be done or who they might recommend