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Old 10-21-2022, 12:37 PM   #1
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Sprinter Rear Suspension Lift or DIY Upgrade

I have posted before about skid wheels for my steep driveway. I have a 2021 Regency Ultra Brougham and it just seems to sit low in the rear in general. Combine that with steep driveway, fairly frequent trips that require water in the tank, and the addition of skid wheels it just seems like Iím constantly bumping the rear - gas stations, campground entrances etc.
I have Sumo upgrades but it just seems like a couple of small rubber blocks to me (lol despite the cost)!

Has anyone added Air Suspension Shocks or other DIY rear suspension upgrades for a fully customized rig like a Regency Ultra Brougham. I have a diesel generator and I read somewhere that the space was pretty limited because of the generator, etc. My goal would be to raise the rear , even if just a couple inches , and to stabilize the ride. It would be great if it was adjustable like when more heavily loaded with more water in tanks etc.
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Old 10-21-2022, 02:05 PM   #2
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Maybe you could contact the manufacturer, Regency(?), explain your problem, and ask them what they might recommend.
The pictures on their website do show a rear end that looks like it's very close to bottoming out at the slightest bump. Very little wheel well clearance, too, or so it looks.
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Old 10-21-2022, 09:07 PM   #3
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So mine.. which is a totally different rv.. was sagging too.. so.. I stopped in at different local auto part stores and asked .. who does truck spring work.. then I called a couple of local rv shops and asked.. then good old Google search.. then connect them.. unbelievable the difference.. they added springs to the spring pack in rear.. this was big job for one old man to dyi .. i recommend you search truck spring shops.. they can do what you need..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 10-21-2022, 10:13 PM   #4
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First thing to do is run it over the scales and determine if your overloaded or not. If not, sounds like a perfect candidate for rear air bags and a small onboard air compressor to control the ride height from the drivers seat.
Not a costly solution, compared to new heavier rear springs which may give you a harsh ride.
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Old 10-22-2022, 08:58 AM   #5
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First thing to do is run it over the scales and determine if your overloaded or not. If not, sounds like a perfect candidate for rear air bags and a small onboard air compressor to control the ride height from the drivers seat.
Not a costly solution, compared to new heavier rear springs which may give you a harsh ride.
Have you had any experience with the airbags? I saw some of that online and I wasnít sure if that was something that I could do on mine or not.
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Old 10-22-2022, 09:18 AM   #6
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Have you had any experience with the airbags? I saw some of that online and I wasnít sure if that was something that I could do on mine or not.
Only on a GM chassis, our old Minnie Winnie that sagged in the rear.
Installation was fairly easy.
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Old 10-22-2022, 10:23 AM   #7
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Wonder if this would work on my coach?
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...ducts_id=57732

I saw somewhere that in the Class B+ coaches something got in the way like the generator or something
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Old 10-22-2022, 11:31 AM   #8
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Probably would work fine IF your coach does not exceed the rear axle rating. I've purchased many items from SD Truck Springs before, great company. If I was in your shoes I'd get scale weights (front/rear/total) and find a local reputable frame and axle shop and get their opinion.
I know the profile of your particular class B is "low slung" to begin with.
That's not a bad thing 95% of the time, until you exceed approach angles greater than yours. If you do not exceed axle gvw ratings I think adjustable air bags may be your best option. Just know, bags are not meant to compensate for overload conditions, merely a leveling device.
A good frame shop should be able to determine if bags will fit your application before you purchase a kit only to find out they won't....
That kit looks nice. Also look into on board air compressor system with dash mount regulator. I think we ran a Hadley system, worked great.
Someday we will downsize to something like your rig, but with the stuff we carry I'll likely be facing the same scenario lol.
Good luck.
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Old 10-22-2022, 11:37 AM   #9
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Keep in mind the MB frame warranty caveats. No cut, no drill, no physical structural alterations allowed. Clamps or use existing holes only or you void it.
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Old 10-22-2022, 02:01 PM   #10
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Keep in mind the MB frame warranty caveats. No cut, no drill, no physical structural alterations allowed. Clamps or use existing holes only or you void it.
I forgot to add "no welding".
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Old 10-22-2022, 04:35 PM   #11
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Is there really a situation that I’d be worried about a “frame warranty”? How long is that warranty anyway?
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Old 10-22-2022, 04:43 PM   #12
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Good question, 3 years, 36,000 miles, I believe? Just a guess.
If you void it, you'll probably need it, and if you don't void it, it will never need to be invoked. Murphy's Law.
Keep dragging it on the driveway approach, and you may find out.
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Old 10-22-2022, 05:05 PM   #13
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I forgot to add "no welding".
Winnebago wasn't too concerned when they cut the rear bumper mounts off the end of my "frame" with a torch during the build. I say "frame" because it is technically unibody.
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Old 10-22-2022, 05:09 PM   #14
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Winnebago wasn't too concerned when they cut the rear bumper mounts off the end of my "frame" with a torch during the build. I say "frame" because it is technically unibody.
As a Mercedes-Benz "trusted upfitter/partner", Winnebago can do what ever they want to it, to make it into a motorhome. After they're finished, and you take possession, the caveats kick in.
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