...still looking...

[FayreLylith]

So, the adventure with the American Cruiser ended with the loss of my deposit, and my not being able to even report this %$&#* because in MD, this kind of scam is a civil issue.

Now I'm looking at a Roadtrek 190 Popular...Winterbagoal, I think you're a Roadtrek guy...I'll post the link here-if you see anything of note, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts!

Thanks to those who've chimed in-always appreciated.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1883135943303/

Best,

[FayreLylith]

I've seen this one before, but looking at it with "new" eyes after reading one of the posts under another thread.

I've already got a daily driver, but I suspect I could use this interchangeably. I hadn't given enough thought to the safety aspects of a Class C...especially with dogs in tow. The insight is greatly appreciated.

I'm doing more digging on this, but Airstream seems to be a universally well regarded brand. Anything I should be aware of?
https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/200...-FS-5011494392

Best,

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by FayreLylith

So, the adventure with the American Cruiser ended with the loss of my deposit, and my not being able to even report this %$&#* because in MD, this kind of scam is a civil issue.

Now I'm looking at a Roadtrek 190 Popular...Winterbagoal, I think you're a Roadtrek guy...I'll post the link here-if you see anything of note, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts!

Thanks to those who've chimed in-always appreciated.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1883135943303/

Best,

I had a bad feel about the American Cruiser or whatever it was called. Sorry about your luck with that one.

re: 2005 Roadtrek 190P

I'd be curious about what looks like damage to the paint on the hood? How?

Start the engine and drive it, if possible, in a residential area with lots of braking and turns, to see if the automotive stuff works. Lights, turn signals, heater defroster, all the cockpit stuff. Then if possible, take it on the freeway and see if it accelerates and the transmission shifts up/down smoothly, and it rides well on the flat, and steers well in lane changes. Feel for any unusual vibration, in the steering wheel, or the driver seat. Listen to the exhaust, is it louder than it should be? Ask if it has had any major engine work done. I did the "Dexcool intake manifold gasket" repair on my 2002. My 2002 had the 5.7L V8, but the 2005 might have the 6.0L one. I'm not sure. Both engines are good solid GM technology (except for that Dexcool thing). The mileage sounds a little low for 15 years old, but who knows on that one. Maybe it was used as a daily driver backup, or only to visit the grandkids once a year?

Get underneath if possible (if you/they have a creeper?) and make sure there isn't a lot of corrosion on the frame and body. Make sure the dump hose pipe and the holding tanks look clean and firmly attached. Look for signs that the generator has been "dragged" or "submerged" - these things sometimes get used to tow things like boats and more than one owner has submerged the genset trying to launch a boat, or dragged the generator going into or out of steep grade parking lot entrances/exits. Look for "scrapes" on the tail end of the vehicle.
Also have a look at the fibreglass running boards from underneath - they're also prone to getting damaged going into or our of steep graded driveways and such. Make sure the external storage cabinets/compartments are lockable and open and close smoothly. Make sure they have the keys to them. I think it looks like it's got the ones with the drawers inside the pull out a little for easier access.

Other than that, download a brochure from Roadtrek's website, the link is at the bottom of their homepage, and print the last few pages that list all of the equipment. Then create a checklist of the systems that are installed, and get them demonstrated if you can by the seller.

Start with the generator, and see what the hours are on it, if it has that display. If they say it works, fire it up, let it run for a minute or two to warm up, then one at a time try the microwave oven, and then try the A/C to make sure they both work, too. If they say the generator doesn't work, ask them to plug the shore power cord into a 15A powered AC outlet, so you can test the microwave/air conditioning. Test them separately on shore power, as both will draw a lot of amps, particularly the A/C. I used to run mine in the driveway if I was doing something inside it in hot weather, and it usually would start and run without tripping the house's breaker.

Everything else is going to take longer time to test, like the refrigerator. It's probably a Dometic 3-way (AC, DC, LPG) absorption model. If you're going to see this unit, ask them to get the fridge working a few hours (6-12?) prior to going to see it, to see if it's cooling properly. I used to start mine the day before heading out on a trip, as they do take longer to cool than a compressor model. On propane, they'll run forever and just sip the fuel.

Ask about the age and condition of the coach batteries, and for them to show them to you. They should be in 2 separate pull out trays on the passenger side, fore and aft of the rear wheel well.

Test the 12V DC systems, like the interior coach lighting, and the ceiling fan, it's probably a "Fantastic Fan", and they should run at low speed very quietly, and they don't draw much power. Make sure it works, as it's one of the best ways to help keep the interior cool at night when you can't run the A/C.

Testing the water system could also be pre-arranged by request. Ask them to put some fresh water in the fresh tank, and to de-winterize it bfore you go to look. Then turn in the water pump, and try the toilet flush and the galley/bathroom sinks to make sure there's water flow. Test the water heater, again by pre-arrangement. Although it will heat up pretty quickly on LPG, if it's working properly.

Ask them to open the rear windows on both sides at the rear of the coach. Those things can be finicky, and it would be nice to make sure they'll open and close without falling out of their frames. Mine used a small crank to open/close.

There are so many other little things that should be tested before you decide, but honestly, "gut feel" is going to play a role in this, as well. Does the seller seem relaxed and honest, helpful and responsive to your requests? Why are they selling it? When I bought my Roadtrek, I just got a feel that the couple that sold it weren't trying to hide anything, and they just seemed honest to me. I didn't do half the tests I've suggested here, but bought it anyway, and put a lot of kms on it over the 9 years I owned it. It had a few things that needed replaced or repaired over that span, but it was a good motorhome and daily driver backup, when the cars/trucks were in the shop.

All these tests, will also apply to the Airstream Interstate. I like the AI, because it's on the older Mercedes T1N chassis with the 5 cylinder turbo diesel engine. Fantastic fuel mileage on those, and they can last a long time, if well cared for. More interior room than the Roadtrek 190P, but the bed(s) are a midships, which isn't my preferred choice for floor plan. It may work for you? It's at a dealership, so you might be limited on what they'll demonstrate for you, unless you make an appointment to go see it a few days ahead of time. Ask them to get it ready to travel, LPG, Fuel, Water, de-winterize, all batteries fully charged, it as if you were going to buy it, and immediately go on a trip. That way everything will be ready to test when you get there.

Either coach would work for me, and the prices are not too far over what I'd be willing to spend, providing everything is in reasonably good shape, and in working order. Obviously, it would be nice to get them both into a Chevy dealer for the RT and a Mercedes-Benz for the AI, to get a mechanical evaluation, but that's up to you. I might check the NADA RV pricing guide to see what the averages are for both, before making an offer. Doesn't necessarily reflect reality, but it can give you an idea of what others are paying for similar units.

Any more questions, fire away and I'll try to help.
I'm offline for a few hours.

[FayreLylith]

Winterbagoal, thanks very much...I should've known better on that AC-as I look back, there were multiple "tells" from the guy selling it-and I wasn't paying close enough attention.

After lurking on RVT, I've gone from 12 listings saved-to 4. 2 Roadtrek Populars, a 2005 Gulfstream, and the AI. Of the 4, the AI is what I'm leaning toward. I will absolutely be asking the dealership to prep the veh. before I go to see it.

Your insight is well appreciated. I'm going to try & limit the "newbie" expensive lessons to just one. !!

Best,

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by FayreLylith

Winterbagoal, thanks very much...I should've known better on that AC-as I look back, there were multiple "tells" from the guy selling it-and I wasn't paying close enough attention.

After lurking on RVT, I've gone from 12 listings saved-to 4. 2 Roadtrek Populars, a 2005 Gulfstream, and the AI. Of the 4, the AI is what I'm leaning toward. I will absolutely be asking the dealership to prep the veh. before I go to see it.

Your insight is well appreciated. I'm going to try & limit the "newbie" expensive lessons to just one. !!

Best,

Good luck, then. I've added some edits to my original post, so you might want to re-read it.

[FayreLylith]

Afternoon Winterbagoal,

Driving up to see the AI tomorrow morning. I spoke with the guy about it earlier & he's sent me some pics of some areas of rust. He says it's all superficial, but it's showing up around areas where screws are located, under and at the running boards, and in one case, in the corner of a little box on the exterior of the van that is something I don't know about. Would you take a look if I post the pics?

Much appreciated,

Best,

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by FayreLylith

Afternoon Winterbagoal,

Driving up to see the AI tomorrow morning. I spoke with the guy about it earlier & he's sent me some pics of some areas of rust. He says it's all superficial, but it's showing up around areas where screws are located, under and at the running boards, and in one case, in the corner of a little box on the exterior of the van that is something I don't know about. Would you take a look if I post the pics?

Much appreciated,

Best,

I could look, but I couldn't say for sure, it would be a guess, at best. I have seen other models in that age range on the T1N chassis, and they're pretty badly rusted, to the point where I wouldn't touch them without a prior repair estimate from a qualified body shop. Is that the one at the BOE MARINE & RV dealership? If it is, it looks pretty clean.
The Roadtrek in the facebook post also looks pretty good. My 2002 was in great shape, very little corrosion, but I rarely drove it in winter and even more rarely on wet, salted roads. If it did see road salt it went to the nearest car wash and got a thorough rinse underneath.
The T1N near me that's in pretty rough shape body-wise, never seems to go anywhere, it's always parked in the driveway, and they've recently added a full weather cover over it.
EDIT: After further review, I'd probably consider surface rust just as bad as full perforations, because that's where they're headed. Unless you know a very reliable body shop that could also look at the pics before you go to see it?

[FayreLylith]

Rog-that is the one.

I've been reading about rust on the forums...ugh. The pics show surface rust (not broken thru the paint) at the screws that hold the city water line; also in one corner of what I think is the LPG compartment, and also on the body above the black/grey lines. Dang-it Dang-it, Dang-it.

I asked for pics from underneath as well-not sure I'll get those before tomorrow. He did say there was rust on the skid plates underneath...but denied that it had been dipped or dunked in water. It has a tow hitch, and that's pretty much covered in rust-not grossly so, but definitely rusty. Better to know ahead of time.

All the little tiny clues...just noticed that the inspection sticker is dated 12/07. Hmmmmmm.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by FayreLylith

Rog-that is the one.

I've been reading about rust on the forums...ugh. The pics show surface rust (not broken thru the paint) at the screws that hold the city water line; also in one corner of what I think is the LPG compartment, and also on the body above the black/grey lines. Dang-it Dang-it, Dang-it.

I asked for pics from underneath as well-not sure I'll get those before tomorrow. He did say there was rust on the skid plates underneath...but denied that it had been dipped or dunked in water. It has a tow hitch, and that's pretty much covered in rust-not grossly so, but definitely rusty. Better to know ahead of time.

All the little tiny clues...just noticed that the inspection sticker is dated 12/07. Hmmmmmm.

The listing says "make an offer". If you do go and see it and like it, that's an option. You could go low and see how badly they want to move it.
The inspection sticker may be a clue. I'm not familiar with that facet of US vehicle sales. Not done where I live.
Also, the "brochure pics" interspersed with the photos, seems a little odd?

Try running the VIN through a MB VIN decoder and see what comes up.

Honestly, I have no idea on the AI, but the "real" pictures don't look that bad.
The final decision falls to you.

[magicbus]

A heads up on the VIN... it is incorrect as the first O should be a zero as in WD0... not WDO. BTW there are no outstanding recalls on this 2006 chassis.

[NAZcampervan]

FayreLylith, As you consider that Airstream Interstate Class B, you may find this blog informative.... THE INTERSTATE BLOG If you find yourself still looking, I can recommend Leisure Travel Van Free Spirit. A few are listed on rvtrader in the East.

NAZ CamperVan
2010 LTV Free Spirit
1989 VW Westfalia