From above posts, I agree Thor could do a better job designing a system. However, that would increase the cost to build and the price charged.
Running A/C on 200 amp hours of Li batteries is a fools task. Boost the size of the bank to 400 amp hours at least. This of course requires addition of significant electronic devices in addition to the Li batteries themselves.
First, never charge batteries of different chemistry from the same charging source. So, lead acid chassis battery plus 200 amp hours of Li charged from alternator is a no no.
Li battery installation instructions almost always contain this warning. So Thor not installing a bridge circuit to the alternator is a cheap way to install Li.
This requires separation of charging profile. There are several electronic devices that do this. A B to B charger between alternator and Li battery bank is one of them. "Just a relay" is not enough.
You may get by with a 100 amp hour Li, but 300 or more can destroy an alternator and motor home electronics under conditions that happen from time to time, especially trying to run A/C on 200 amp hours. 200 amp hours is pushing the limits for a motor home. It may work for a travel trailer because of higher resistance in the wiring harness.
Li batteries have a built in battery management system (BMS). The BMS will disconnect without warning (most drop-in Li) when electrical parameters are exceed. The sudden disconnect while charging from an automotive alternator can generate extremely high voltage spikes on the chassis 12 volt system.
The high voltage can fry computers and other electronic devices. Protection devices are required for large Li banks. The chassis lead acid battery will dampen the effect, but bigger Li banks can overwhelm some systems.
Li batteries can fry an automotive alternator because they draw high charging current. A B to B charger can limit that overload.
See the following article for better understanding.
Lithium Battery Systems
https://marinehowto.com/drop-in-life...ated-consumer/