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Old 09-15-2020, 06:42 AM   #1
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2000 chassis, Freon or R134A?

My 2000 Winnebego Ultimate Advantage chassis AC works poorly...

Before I start digging in, anyone know if it uses r134a or Freon/R12? Didn't see any stickers on the ports or compressor?

Any common areas to check for leakage or coolant?

Clutch on compressor works intermittently. Turns on for 1 second, then off for 1 second. I assume its likely reading low pressures or something similar.

Of interest the AC line to the compressor is incredibly corroded and the metal sleeve is cracked! Odd, since the rest of the RV has zero rust and looks great. The coolant return line to the block is extremely corroded in the same location (runs next to the AC line). Never seen that before? Not sure if coolant was leaking there at one time, or if r134a was leaking and caused the corrosion...

Next step is to try the dye test...but pretty sure that one cracked fitting leaked at one time.
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Old 09-15-2020, 07:01 AM   #2
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Assuming you are talking about dash A/C. Should be R134A since it was built after 1995. R134A systems have quick disconnect fittings and R12 has threaded fittings. The suction lines can get condensation on them causing rust. My 2 cents worth dyes cause more trouble than they are worth so I avoid them.
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:17 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcbbob15 View Post
Assuming you are talking about dash A/C. Should be R134A since it was built after 1995. R134A systems have quick disconnect fittings and R12 has threaded fittings. The suction lines can get condensation on them causing rust. My 2 cents worth dyes cause more trouble than they are worth so I avoid them.
Thanks.

IF the system is completely empty, are there better ways to check? Perhaps fill the system with dry air from a compressor at 50 psi and use soapy water?

Is the dryer a reusable item? Meaning, if the coolant is gone, is the dryer still good? Does it clean out once vacuum is done?
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:34 AM   #4
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A professional shop will use nitrogen to pressurize the system and check for leaks. But before that step, check to see if your AC system already has (had) leak dye in it. All the systems come that way from the factory (that I've seen) have leak detector dye in them. However, you may need to purchase a black light to see the fluorescent dye (depending on what type of dye was used originally). Your owner's manual should say what was put in with the factory charge.

Once the leak is repaired, you would need to change the Dryer. It is only designed to remove a little moisture in a closed system. once the Dryer is open to atmosphere it will become saturated and needs to be replaced.

The difficultly in this type of repair (fixing a leak and recharging) is that you cant tell how much oil came out with the leak.

If you recharge and add too much oil the system wont cool properly. If you don't add enough oil the compressor will fail in time. The proper way to do this is to remove the Evaporator, Condenser, and Compressor and drain the oil out, then refill with the correct amount of oil.

But it's hard to remove a Condenser and/or Evaporator so many don't. In this case the next best thing is to flush those components (using AC Flush) then assume there is no oil in them, and then add a full oil charge along with a full refrigerant charge.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:44 PM   #5
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What Country B said +2
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