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Old 07-05-2022, 01:50 PM   #1
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2001 freightliner XC chassis alignment specifications

Does anyone have an old alignment sheet from having their 99 to 02 freightliner XC chassis aligned? Mine is a 01 DSDP on a FL chassis with a solid front axle and a CAT3126B. The solid I-beam front axle is important. Rear Axle is a -AD200 Chassis 1996 -Oct. 2001 I'm at 38.5 feet so up to 40 feet or so is fine.

Need the alignment specs, camber, castor, toe in and rear cross thrust tolerances if possible but not required.

Should be on your alignment sheet in green shown as spec.

Can't seem locate the specific data for my year of chassis.

yes, I know specs for moho's can be subjective, but at least I'll have a place to start from. Yes, I can do my own alignments, do them on my cars and trucks.

thank you.
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Old 07-05-2022, 03:36 PM   #2
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Well I thought I could help

Grabbed the F/L Recreational Vehicle Chassis manual that came with my coach.

Went to the suspension section ... it goes into great detail about how to set up a Trammel bar to read the toe in ( which I believe is our only front end adjustment ) then refers you to the specs in Group 33 of the workshop manual .

I'll tag along to see if better info comes from another member , I suppose wedges for caster is a possibility .
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Old 07-05-2022, 03:41 PM   #3
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Have you asked Freightliner Gaffney? Have your VIN handy.
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:49 PM   #4
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Old 07-06-2022, 06:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Well I thought I could help

Grabbed the F/L Recreational Vehicle Chassis manual that came with my coach.

Went to the suspension section ... it goes into great detail about how to set up a Trammel bar to read the toe in ( which I believe is our only front end adjustment ) then refers you to the specs in Group 33 of the workshop manual .

I'll tag along to see if better info comes from another member , I suppose wedges for caster is a possibility .
Sipping morning coffee and thinking, so, yes, me too.. I searched there first too, looks like toe in set at about -1/16" total. But other than that, haven't been able to find anything anywhere. Camber for larger vehicles is usually set about 0* +-.25* (* denoting degrees). Setting camber on solid front axles is tough due to having to heat up and often bend the axle and it is seldom incorrect anyways.

Castor is the one that is adjustable with shims between the axle and spring. Castor/kingpin angle is what caused me some problems many years ago when I rebuilt a 21 foot class A. When I made suspension repairs it changed the castor and when I would hit certain bumps the steering wheel would go into a side to side shimmy, these days ford truck owners call it a death wobble. I had to increase the -castor to eliminate it. Now your wondering why I'm interested in checking the castor??? Had to replace my air springs, noticed that the rear of the coach is riding higher than the front. the rear ride height is clearly higher than the front. When I first got the coach, I had to make a steer damper because the wheel would get a shimmy on certain roads, not bad like some of the ford trucks, but still really noticed it. With the rear sticking up in the air I'm thinking that if I lower the ride height in the rear I will change the castor?????

Right now the coach tracks straight and I have not been motivated to check the toe in... yet... but now that I have to look at the ride height and castor I'd like to measure the castor before I change the ride height and it would be nice to know what it should be vs what it is now and if I need to change it.

Alignment fellas use to be pretty sharp but with computer alignment systems of today, they just need to be able to put on the wheel clamp sensors and read the computer screen, make the recommended adjustments and in comes the $$. Recently went to town for a alignment on my car and the cheapest in town was $110, most higher, wow... that got my attention... originally learned this stuff 50 years ago, but that was when alignments were $19.95 and free if you bought a set of tires... So, got out my string lines, bought some swivel plates and a new $90 camber castor gage. (these use to be $400) did alignments on my cars and trucks and found them all off specs.... one only had 300 miles on it since last front rear laser alignment???

Good news is I'm driving straight down the road again, could be due to all the extra moola in my pockets...

Re-learning all the little details is bringing back memories of how to adjust camber for road crown and castor for shimmy... how a simple washer inserted in the right place can correct an amazing amount problems. And cam bolts, wow, what a great invention!!! so very cool!! hope that fella made some money!!!!

Ok, back to the present, the computer spec/settings are usually taken from the manufacturers recommendations but often reset according to the "alignment specialists" experience. That is why I was asking to see if anyone had some in their maintenance files.... In my experience -1/16" is not enough toe in on a heavy vehicle, normally 1/8 to 3/8" total is what I would look for. First FL that I've dealt with, so who knows, they perhaps may be correct and 1/16' may be enough????

yes, I know that the specs vary according to the weight and length but that is why I wanted shop inspired data.
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Old 07-06-2022, 07:16 AM   #6
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I started doing alignments when toe spec was in inches not degrees , and a magnetic level to go on the front hub , switch to computers and lasers did make adjustments more precise .
Four head equipment to check " thrust angle ".
When exactly did they stop using terms like wheelbase check and dog tracking ?

Ford , Dodge and Jeep all have the death wobble issue .

I do believe my DW has just woken up , time to flip the switch on the coffee pot .
Have a great day.
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Old 07-06-2022, 09:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
I started doing alignments when toe spec was in inches not degrees , and a magnetic level to go on the front hub , switch to computers and lasers did make adjustments more precise .
Four head equipment to check " thrust angle ".
When exactly did they stop using terms like wheelbase check and dog tracking ?

Ford , Dodge and Jeep all have the death wobble issue .

I do believe my DW has just woken up , time to flip the switch on the coffee pot .
Have a great day.
Don't feel bad, I have to change the degrees on the toe in to inches.... I still use string lines to check the rear axle for dog tracking to make sure it is straight, I called that the rear thrust angle, but I've heard a lot of new fancy names for it. I have found that most shimmies are caused by poor castor settings unless one is towing behind a moho or such, then need a steer damper to prevent it.
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Old 07-06-2022, 10:05 PM   #8
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air ride control valve

So, measured the ride height today, found all of them within specs. Apparently when the coach is in motion the rear of the coach should be higher then the front?????? When checking I sprayed each ride control valve with soapy bubbles and dang if the front driver side didn't have a leak coming out of the vent tube. Jiggled around the valve wand and more bubbles... Ordered a new one. called local truck center for the correct part number for my 01 DSDP on a FL chassis and he came back with a Haldax#90054007 $106.99 wow... amazon wanted $57 for the Haldax brand and a knock off with 1200 reviews was $37... figured it must be the one all he truckers use. so, for $40. I have a brand new one on the way! In my research, found a vid that showed how one can cut the connecting link and insert both ends into a hose with hose clamps to make fine adjustments if you can't reach your ride control valve with out removing your rear tires.... very clever...
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Old 07-07-2022, 04:45 AM   #9
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For my coach, a 2001 newmar 3852 on a FL XC chassis with a cat 3126B.

Factory ride height specifications:
Front: 10.5 +-
The rear: 9 +- 1/4

Strange with these specs that the rear of the coach rides slightly higher than the front.
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Old 07-07-2022, 10:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonfu View Post
For my coach, a 2001 Newmar 3852 on a FL XC chassis with a cat 3126B.

Factory ride height specifications:
Front: 10.5” +- ”
The rear: 9 ” +- 1/4”

Strange with these specs that the rear of the coach rides slightly higher than the front.
You have to have the info on exactly where to measure .

I think from your description , that your XC chassis is like mine , 2 ride height valves on the front axle and a single on the rear . So built before the changes that saw the two valves on the rear and single on the front.
I've never had issues with the air suspension so , I haven't had to collect the specs , and adjustment info .

Was your chassis involved in the tire recall , that saw the front tires replaced by Newmar for a different size with a higher rating to match the axle GAWR ?
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Old 07-08-2022, 06:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
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You have to have the info on exactly where to measure .

I think from your description , that your XC chassis is like mine , 2 ride height valves on the front axle and a single on the rear . So built before the changes that saw the two valves on the rear and single on the front.
I've never had issues with the air suspension so , I haven't had to collect the specs , and adjustment info .

Was your chassis involved in the tire recall , that saw the front tires replaced by Newmar for a different size with a higher rating to match the axle GAWR ?
Not that I know of, I'm the third owner, first 2 didn't really do any maintenance, so over the years I've learned to check everything. I now use toyo's that are the correct weight rating. yes, 2 in front and one in the rear...

hmmm.. that sound strange...

So, when setting on level ground does the back of the coach set higher than the front?

Gut feeling is that the rear is setting a couple of inches higher than it should be.
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Old 07-08-2022, 05:08 PM   #12
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In suspension design, the front roll center is normally lower than the rear roll center. This does *not* directly relate to ride height, as the roll centers are a function of suspension design, but it seemed worth mentioning.
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Old 07-09-2022, 07:18 AM   #13
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In suspension design, the front roll center is normally lower than the rear roll center. This does *not* directly relate to ride height, as the roll centers are a function of suspension design, but it seemed worth mentioning.
I've never heard of a "roll center"?? Looked it up and dang... something new for this old dog... the only thing I don't get is how can the front roll center be lower than the rear roll center when the tires and wheels are the same size and the axle OC's are exactly the same??? But I get the concept... Now on a Mcpherson strut system/fully independent suspension I can under stand the importance.... if one were off cornering it could become a swishing tail nightmare... hmm but on a solid axles???

thank you for something new to learn about... very interesting..

ok, so aired up again yesterday. I'm still waiting on the air ride control valve for one side. and found that coach trim to ground at axle OC is off exactly 2" back to front. Front being lower. that said it coach is unloaded right now. I consider that with in specs as it would throw more weight on the front of the coach which is tough to do with a DP and must have been deliberately at the factory to control front end light weight shimmey.

Say, since you seem to know something about steer geometry, any guesses at what some of the alignment specs might be for this monster??? Biggest vehicle that I've ever tried to align. Plan on string line for front and back toe in, turn plates for camber and caster with a wheel clamp. Any suggestions? It doesn't pull to either side but I would say it kind of feels like the toe in is off and wanders just a little in it's lane at freeway speed of 65.

Going to try to rebuild the air control valve for a spare. If I can't then going to order 2 more for spares. Prices are all over the place, wow.. $27 on amazon to $106 at the local truck shop. bought the $37 one with 1200 reviews. Emailed one of the buyers and he said after 5 years no problems on his wanderlodge. Ain't amazon great!!!
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Old 07-09-2022, 07:59 AM   #14
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In suspension design, the front roll center is normally lower than the rear roll center. This does *not* directly relate to ride height, as the roll centers are a function of suspension design, but it seemed worth mentioning.
Ok, so it seems that since the roll center can't be adjusted through the suspension (due to multi use chassis) then the rear of the coach is raised slightly to compensate for lack of suspension adjustments to lower the roll center in the front thus putting more weight on front. What got my attention was when I first got the coach the steer wheel would shake when it hit bumps in the road. I installed a steer damper to solve the problem but suspected the castor was off which happened to me years ago on another coach. Clearly the 2" diff is intentional. I wonder if they leveled the frig to the 2" diff in ride height? Wonder if the ride height diff/fig level is related to the "frig fires"????

All good questions and things to check out.
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