Community Forums

Djtrooper1 · 05-06-2022, 02:05 PM

I have a 2004 Fleetwood Revolution on a Freightliner chassis that has around 63,000 miles. It has never given me a problem until recently I started out and about a mile from home, as I decelerated it shut down like all electrical power was lost. It will intermittently start, and sometimes not do anything. It is now at Freightliner dealership and they have no idea what's wrong, because nothing will power up. No dash lights, except automatic jack controls. Does anyone have an idea or a starting wire schematic? Fleetwood cannot help because of the age.

waroland · 05-06-2022, 02:36 PM

Have all battery connections checked including chassis ground connection! They loosen up as you travel.

Djtrooper1 · 05-06-2022, 02:55 PM

Thanks for your reply…unfortunately all batteries are brand new and all grounds have been cleaned and tight and still nothing. A wiring schematic may be our only hope unless someone else has witnessed this issue.

Tha_Rooster · 05-06-2022, 04:14 PM

How about the ground going from frame to engine?
How long had new batteries been installed before problem started?

twinboat · 05-06-2022, 04:23 PM

Sorry to be blunt but,,

You have your rig at a dealer and your asking a fourm whats wrong with it ?

You should be asking where another dealer is, if that one can't fix it.

radar · 05-06-2022, 04:44 PM

Let me guess. You have house power but no chassis power right?

radar · 05-06-2022, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djtrooper1

I have a 2004 Fleetwood Revolution on a Freightliner chassis that has around 63,000 miles. It has never given me a problem until recently I started out and about a mile from home, as I decelerated it shut down like all electrical power was lost. It will intermittently start, and sometimes not do anything. It is now at Freightliner dealership and they have no idea what's wrong, because nothing will power up. No dash lights, except automatic jack controls. Does anyone have an idea or a starting wire schematic? Fleetwood cannot help because of the age.

Ok. I just went thru my old archives and found a pic that may help you get your coach going. We had a 2003 Revolution that did the same thing in the Harris Ranch parking lot. I was able to get it going buy bypassing something with a jumper. But I need to know if your house (coach) side of things is working first. In other words your chassis is dead but the house is good. Yes?? No??

Djtrooper1 · 05-07-2022, 07:20 AM

Yes house electric is good. The chassis is the problem. When you turn on the key, sometimes it will work and crank, run for a minute and then it's like you kill all power. Other times you can turn it on and nothing comes on.....no dash warning, etc.

Djtrooper1 · 05-07-2022, 07:22 AM

I'm trying to avoid another $800 tow bill by researching the problem for the technician. I have already paid them $1500 for house batteries that they said were bad and was the problem.

Djtrooper1 · 05-07-2022, 07:25 AM

Batteries were all changed when the problem appeared

Djtrooper1 · 05-07-2022, 07:27 AM

Correct

radar · 05-07-2022, 07:52 AM

OK. DJ. So I don't necessarily know what the problem is but I can tell you what I think is happening, what happened to us and a place to check. And you are not allowed to laugh at the buck shee fix I used to get the coach to my mechanic. We were on the road and used what we had in the tool box. Here goes.

The picture below is a picture of the front cabinet right below your drivers position. It is where all the electrical comes together on the coach. Both the house side and the chassis side. When our coach went dark it did EXACTLY what yours did. I was bewildered. Where to start. I went hunting with my meter and realized I had house 12 volt to the big stud on the right where you see my make shift jumper attached. However I had no chassis power to the big stud on the left hand side where the other end of my jumper is attached to. You cant see the stud in the picture but you will if you get in there. That chassis 12 volts is fed by a line from the battery compartment at the back of the coach. For giggles and grins I jumped or back fed that chassis line from the house 12 volts as you see in the picture. Boom, everything lit up and started clicking etc. Scared the crap out of me because I had left the key in the on position. Went inside, cranked it up and it started.

So I knew that a single wire was probably too thin for the current needed for the electronics so I twinned it as you can see, and I fused it...just in case. That buck shee fix got me back to Canada and my mechanic. They found a corroded connection somewhere underneath the coach. The coach ran fine until we sold it last year.

My suggestion is maybe show this to the tech or try it yourself. Like I say, I don't know the fix, but this got us on the road.

Feel free to ask any questions. We can arrange a phone call if necessary.

Good luck sir.

Skip426 · 05-08-2022, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djtrooper1

I have a 2004 Fleetwood Revolution on a Freightliner chassis that has around 63,000 miles. It has never given me a problem until recently I started out and about a mile from home, as I decelerated it shut down like all electrical power was lost. It will intermittently start, and sometimes not do anything. It is now at Freightliner dealership and they have no idea what's wrong, because nothing will power up. No dash lights, except automatic jack controls. Does anyone have an idea or a starting wire schematic? Fleetwood cannot help because of the age.

A Freightliner dealer who can't get a chassis wiring schematic ; from Freightliner ; boy are you at the wrong place.
Fleetwood probably never had the chassis wiring schematics and I'm surprised they didn't direct you to Freightliner for a chassis power/ starting issue.
Even without a schematic ; 12 volt electrical isn't rocket science ; if the batteries and connections are good and you're not getting power to the dash, follow the power cable .
My 99 has a 12 volt circuit breaker ( manual reset ) 3' from the chassis battery positive post to protect the 33' of chassis power cable run to the dash ; if in later years Freightliner upgraded that 110 amp , manual reset C/B to an auto reset that would explain your erratic condition or even bad connections at the C/B could be the problem .
I got wiring schematics from Freightliner 12 years ago by joining Access Freightliner ( now DTNA Connect ) took three weeks ; but a Freightliner dealer with your chassis serial number should have access to schematics for your chassis in a heartbeat.

Skip426 · 05-08-2022, 10:35 AM

[QUOTE=radar;6173002]

So I knew that a single wire was probably too thin for the current needed for the electronics so I twinned it as you can see, and I fused it...just in case. That buck shee fix got me back to Canada and my mechanic. They found a corroded connection somewhere underneath the coach. The coach ran fine until we sold it last year.

In radar's temporary fix he has supplied coach battery power to the front, power stud of the chassis cable , and I'll bet the corroded connections were at the 110 amp circuit breaker by the battery tray .
On my chassis the C/B is on a plate mounted to the frame behind the battery tray ( behind the passenger side duals , in my case ) only visible from ground level under the coach . Photo below ,

Items in the photo are ,
C/B for the power cable to the dash .
C/B for power to the diesel engine grid heater ( Cummins engine will have 2 of these)
and the starter relay . red arrow.