So, bought an 04 Revolution 40c this past summer with Freightliner chassis and ISC.
Planning on a 6 week trip this summer and am crawling around inspecting and making notes of things to fix and do maintenance on before the trip...
Wow this thing has a lot of filters...
Fuel/water, fuel, water, air, gen set air and fuel, air dryer, etc! This is my first medium duty chassis, so still getting used to finding everything. Manuals I have seem to be very generic.
Zerk fittings seem to be everywhere! Has anyone found any that aren’t obvious when crawling around under the MH? Or certain things to look for?
Suspension bushings, specifically sway bar up front. My sway bar link bushings are, well, MIA! They don’t exist anymore. Not even a tiny little piece. It’s been parked 99% of the time I had it, so it hasn’t been driven much. But, with a 5500 mile trip planned, it’s probably a good idea to get this corrected.
So, anyone have ideas on sway bar bushing kits? I try to search and I get a lot of random parts that, without part numbers in hand, I have no idea if they work. Anyone have any input on finding the actual part numbers for these? It’s an 04 Revolution with Freightliner chassis with beam front axle.
And, looks like there are a couple hoses coming from the tail area of the Allison and go to an exchanger of sorts (looks to be plumbed to the coolant lines). The fittings on these two hoses screwed into the exchanger are really rusted; both hoses seem to be overly wet and dripping fluid. I suspect I’ll probably replace these hoses before the trip but really wanted to understand what this exchanger is and if these hoses leaking is common?
The bottom of the trans is wet from some minor leaks (possibly from dip stick gasket) but nothing seems to be dripping, even when parked for several months. However, these hoses appear to be dripping, creating a spot on the concrete about the size of a dinner plate since being parked this past October.
Radiator seems to be leaking or a hose leaking from somewhere I can’t easily see. Still looking around to find the source of the drips. It has a side radiator; do these radiators seem to leak? The water is coming from what looks like a spot up on the inside face of the top of the tank. I don’t see any corrosion anywhere. MH has 67k miles. Fluid seems normal. The fluid I suspect as being a leak doesn’t have any color to it, so I’m really hoping it’s just water dripping from above from something else. Still working on finding the source.
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All OEM boots made out of rubber probably disintegrated after 20,000 miles. It's typical. What is odd is that very few shops know you can replace these boot with a high quality poly-urethane boot. So you are in luck...
This may help you address your front suspension boot problem:
All the other stuff sounds like a typical $500-$700 PM job. Or are you the mechanic? (The air filter alone is $125, but if you order off Amazon or find a discount truck dealer you can save a lot of money on filter prices.)
As for your water leak... send a picture... and describe where it's coming from a little better. Maybe then someone will have a good answer for you.
You might also consider adding a FASS-TS or AirDog-4G electric pump. This one very important upgrade you can read more about here:
And... everyone overlooks the ph in their radiator. So IMO you really need to educate yourself on coolant types; and you need find out if you have OAT coolant or the "green stuff" that needs additives from time-to-time. This too is very important!
Air filter too? ...If you MP is 24" then you probably don't have a a leak somewhere after you air filter, but you still need to check all our rubber boots for cracks. You have a older coach, but 2004-2006 coaches from all manufactures generally used quality materials and components that will last. Your problem, is not atypical for the things you need to do at 60,000 miles.
Look for leaks in your exhaust manifold too! ...You will need 2 people so one can step on the peddle and the other can examine your exhaust manifold AS YOU DRIVE. In my coach, the exhaust would only leak when the exhaust brake/Jake Brake kicked in.
The good news is that you will have reliable machine after all this PM stuff is out out the way.
Check your hot water heater too... flush it out too!
And if your tires are older than 10 years you really need to replace these. ...What you really don't want to do is run on "good looking rubber" when those tires are over 10 years old. And if you every had a tire blow out, you would know why this is perhaps the most important PM you can do!
All the other stuff sounds like maintenance the previous owner did not do, but is sounds like you got a great price on all these unknowns... so just take it to a mechanic an do a $500-$700 PM job. Or are you the mechanic?
Yes, previous owner lacked on some of the maintenance. To be fair, in the 4 years he owned it he only put 3200 miles on it. It sat for most of the time. But, like anything, when it sits unused it can fall apart if not maintained.
I am the mechanic. I live in it during the week while I’m working out of town (aside from several long weekend trips with the fam, it’s been at the same RV park for 3 years). So, it’s not really practical to take it somewhere and mobile RV mechanics are hard to find around here. So, I get to be the one performing all the maintenance.
I don’t mind so much other than it being a little cool out and dark when I get off work. I am capable of doing a majority of any work needed, just time consuming learning this chassis and where everything.
Do you know if the previous owner changed the oil and other fluids?
...And you didn't hear these things from me if you are on a budget?
* I would not worry about time... other than tire rot. And you can't see this all the time. So if your tires are older than 10 years, you really need to replace them... and don't drive above 55 mph until you do.
I assume the RV was on jacks for the 3 years it was "laid up?" ...which is better for the tires, but if they were not covered then the sun plays a factor.
* As for the fluid changes, just make sure you get a laundry bucked that can accept 5 gallons of fluid, and a lot of weight, but other than that you will find your diesel engine fluid change is just like a car... only bigger in every respect.
* Pick-up 1 cheap strap-wrench to help you spin-off all those different size filters.
* You need to get creative when it comes to re-filling your oil with funnels.
* If you know the previous owner changed the oil when he bought it, some 3,200 miles ago, then I would not worry about it now. Just change it at 10,000 miles total use instead of 15,000 miles.
* And it's time for your Tranny fluid to be changed. This can be expensive. And I wouldn't take the coach to anyone but an Allison authorized service center to do it... or if you want to just change the fluid you will need 5 gallons of the right fluid!
If you have an Allison 3000MH tranny then most everyone uses TranSynd, but if you do your homework you may be able to find a trans fluid that meets the Allison TES-295 specification, and then you can probably save money there too... and skip the filter... if you want to just change the tranny fluid yourself.
And since you are taking a 5,000+ mile trip then I think replacing your tranny fluid would be a very good idea
* I wouldn't worry about the time between oil changes. But you do need to check the ph of your coolant for sure.
* And you might want to inspect your air filter for piece of mind.
Safe travels.
PS
Read about changing your two solenoids. These tend to fail around 70,000 miles and when they do it's a pain. You can get these for cheap off Amazon and Napa only caries the lesser quality solenoids for pick-up trucks.
"Read about changing your two solenoids. These tend to fail around 70,000 miles and when they do it's a pain. You can get these for cheap off Amazon and Napa only caries the lesser quality solenoids for pick-up trucks."
My coach is nearly same as yours (2004 Vectra).
Where are those two solenoids located?
Thanks
The tires were replaced when the oil was changed. They have a date code of late 2016, so I should be good. Previous owner never mentioned anything about transmission service. So, that’s on the list.
Is is a 3000 series Allison. Did I read that right? Change fluid but not filter?
As far as all the other filters. I have all new filters for everything except the engine air filter. That darn thing is so expensive, I can’t just toss it with 75% of its life left just for “peace of mind”.
Generator fuel and air filters were recently replaced as well. I have new but will probably just have them on hand if there is an issue on the road.
What solenoids were you talking about? Start solenoids? I think I saw a few of those last night while I was crawling around under there.
I will be performing a majority, if not all of the work myself because I live in it 4 nights a week while working. It’s not very practical to take it somewhere and I don’t know I’m up for paying a mobile mechanic the $$$ when it’s something I can do myself in the evening away from the family out of town.
As for filling oil, I have a small 1.5gpm 12V electric pump just for this. I use it for filling oil in hard to reach areas. Seems to work well. I’ll just need some extensions for my alligator clips.
Strongly caution however on your idea of air filter replacement.
This filter is a life bloodline and cleans the air your $30,000 engine/turbo uses. For the $120 or so (plus the headache of the labor) it is a must change item if older than 5 years. Normal replacement generally called for at the 3 year mark.
It isn't the dirt, but the materials the filter is made of that can break down.
Don't dust your engine for a filter!
Okay...thanks for reading.
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2008 Fleetwood Bounder 38S 2022 Grand Cherokee WK Limited 2021 Polaris Slingshot R Limited
The tires were replaced when the oil was changed. They have a date code of late 2016, so I should be good. Previous owner never mentioned anything about transmission service. So, that’s on the list.
Is is a 3000 series Allison. Did I read that right? Change fluid but not filter?
As far as all the other filters. I have all new filters for everything except the engine air filter. That darn thing is so expensive, I can’t just toss it with 75% of its life left just for “peace of mind”.
Generator fuel and air filters were recently replaced as well. I have new but will probably just have them on hand if there is an issue on the road.
What solenoids were you talking about? Start solenoids? I think I saw a few of those last night while I was crawling around under there.
I will be performing a majority, if not all of the work myself because I live in it 4 nights a week while working. It’s not very practical to take it somewhere and I don’t know I’m up for paying a mobile mechanic the $$$ when it’s something I can do myself in the evening away from the family out of town.
As for filling oil, I have a small 1.5gpm 12V electric pump just for this. I use it for filling oil in hard to reach areas. Seems to work well. I’ll just need some extensions for my alligator clips.
Thanks for the info!!
I would change the trans filters especially if they have never been changed. Why put clean expensive fluid in dirty filters. Make sure to get torque values and use a torque wrench when reinstalling the bolts that hold the filer covers.
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Tigerfan1
2016 DSDP 4369, Freightliner Chassis, AF One brake system, 2016 Chevy Equinox
TenMillie asked about solenoids. This is somewhat off the OP topic, but since we are on the subject of PM, I guess it applies.
The following information may help you on the road when you think some of your solenoids may be the problem.
I put together a couple .pdf documents you can download for more information.
The first .pdf talks about my 2 coach solenoids. Note: I have a 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD so your system may be different, but the principles are the same. Also, my solenoids are located behind a large cover plate just above the inverter. (Your solenoids could be located elsewhere?)
The second .pdf document talks about our my HWH slide and jack solenoids. And on my coach these solenoids and HWH motor are located under my entry steps. ...I also just learned about this information so I suspect many don't think about the HWH motor or don't want to think about it... failing. So hopefully you will find this information interesting too.
But what will you do if you can't put your slideout in or out? Do you know how to trouble shoot your HWH motor and solenoids? (See attached .pdf to learn more.)
...And maybe after 15 years it's time you do a PM fluid change? ...And by pumping fluid out of the reservoir tank, maybe that will remove any "crud" other people have written about in their posts. Note: I understand it will take 3.5-4 quarts of dexron III, but I can't confirm that since I plan to do a HWH fluid change this summer.
I hope both documents come in handy some day if you ever get stuck on the road.
I would change the trans filters especially if they have never been changed. Why put clean expensive fluid in dirty filters. Make sure to get torque values and use a torque wrench when reinstalling the bolts that hold the filer covers.
Absolutely, perhaps change the filters and not the fluid but never the other way around
Transmission fluid has changed over the years and is more susceptible to heat than back in the day when it was made out of whale oil. (Yes that's what I said, and whale oil was the "good stuff.")
I think Allison transmissions were only spared a short death (like so many car transmissions) due to the fact they hold a lot of transmission fluid. However, that does not mean you can trust the time between fluid changes now.
Allison says you don't need to change your Tranny fluid for 300,000 miles, but I would never go more than 50,000 between fluid changes.
Allison also recommends changing filters every 75,000 under normal driving conditions, but from my experience this is overkill.
I also find it funny/interesting that so many manufactures are all in a race to say their products can last a life time, but then tell you you need to change the filters. My guess is that they really just want you to "recharge" your tranny fluid by mixing in a large percentage of new fluid with the old fluid you can't remove.
Most people don't want to change their tranny fluid and the transmission mechanics will agree with the manufactures. However, I not in this camp!
Specifically, I like changing my RV tranny fluid every 50,000 miles, and when I do that I'm also comfortable waiting until 100,000 before I change the tranny filters.
On the other hand, if you like to "pull out your wallet" then just keep doing what you know best!
*** Changing tranny fluid is something anyone with just a little mechanical ability can do. So to the OP, that is what I recommend. An Allison/Freightliner shop will charge you $650 to do a Tranny PM fluid and filter change.
Or...
Here's the best deal I have found. This TES295 fluid is only $135 on Amazon and it includes shipping:
Note: Most TES295 fluid runs $35/gallong, and the Allison Transend fluid is int the $50 range. Also, not all Dexron VI meets TES295 spec so it's important to verify your brand of fluid does.
Moreover, if you examine your tranny filter at 100,000 miles, under normal driving conditions, you will not find it very dirty... at all!
You can follow the Allison recommend fluid changes, but I choose to be more conservative/agressive; I.e., I think it is better to change the fluid more often and when you do (IMO) it's not as important to change the filters.
=== ~ ===
Here's some additional information about your Allison 3000MH sump pan type (2" or 4"):
Allison 3000 transmissions can hold approximately 29 quarts of fluid; the larger Allison 4000 can hold approximately 48 quarts.
But not all of this fluid is in the transmission pan. Much is contained in the transmission cooler, cooler lines, and torque converter.
Therefore, an Allison 3000 could require only 19-23 quarts on a refill rather than 29 quarts when filled for the first time.
...and an Allison 4000 could require only 39 quarts on a refill (instead of 48 quarts when changing fluids).
NOTE: If filters only are changed, these numbers drop markedly. Only two quarts are lost when changing the main filter. ...But Eight quarts are lost when changing the lube filter. (According to Allison.)
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