ISC Fan running all the time

[HoodWelds]

Originally Posted by mschaffer66

I guess I should be happy that the fan running all the time only took me down to 6.5 from roughly 8 when we started our trip.

What I don't get though is if my fan running is sapping power and MPG, how does going to a fan that is direct drive going to be a benefit? Wouldn't it too suck power?

That's very true. With that minor of a drop I think your fan is still working intermittently, I'm seeing around 4.5mpg. Now it isn't all flat out here in Vegas and I'm always towing about 6k on a trailer but from what I've been reading I should still see around 7.5mpg give or take a bit.

It's because the blade design and it's essentially a flex fan so the blades flex to increase efficiency. I agree though I had the same thought but after reading all the folks that have put them on their pushers I don't see anyone that regrets their decision to do so. From what I understand is the stock fan is very dependent on that clutch to work properly. If it doesn't the efficiency of the stock fan in a direct drive situation due to a failed clutch is terrible.

[HoodWelds]

How did your coach do on your trip to Florida? Any fan issues?

[mschaffer66]

Originally Posted by HoodWelds

How did your coach do on your trip to Florida? Any fan issues?

Funny you should ask that that. We just got back today from our trip. Haha.

Fan worked great. Temps get up around 207-210, fan kicks on and takes it back down to the 180s.

I averaged around 7.5-8mpg. I'm pleased.

But one the way home I got a check engine light. Stopped at a TA and they ran the code to find that the crank case filter is clogged. No one had one in stock so I ram the 500 miles home with the light on. Didn't seem to affect mileage though. Another project now... haha

[HoodWelds]

What a coincidence. That's good to hear. I am about to order my new clutch from horton. I spoke with them and they seem to think mine is toast which I agree. Not happy about the cost but they actually have them in stock. We will be running from Vegas to Ohio and back this summer so I want all the MPG I can squeeze out of thing.

I just finished dealing with the crank case pressure saga on my coach. I believe my final fix was to gut the CCV filter aka make my own lifetime filter. It seems happy the one trip I've been on since I did that. Hopefully just changing your filter does the trick as it does for most. I couldn't get that lucky.

[Toribk]

CCV filter is an easy change. The hard part is getting everything out from under the bed and dismantling a portion of the bed frame to lift the engine hatch for access......at least on my coach.

[mschaffer66]

Thank you guys for all the help on this issue. I think I can say for now it's put to bed...

Not to distract from the topic...
Since the unit is new to us and even though the previous owner was very diligent about maintenance I'm going to go through all of the points and get my own baseline.

Right now my list is:
Crank case filter
Engine oil/filter
Trans fluid/filter
Fuel filter/water separator
Air system desiccant
Engine air filter
Flush/fill engine coolant
Generator service(oil, filter, fuel filter, air filter, coolant flush/fill)
Lube everything I can find...

Some of that might be a little bit of overkill, but the little bit of cost is worth the peace of mind knowing that its all fresh and I can monitor from there.

[HoodWelds]

It wasn’t cheap but hopefully it’s the answer to my fan turning at warp speed constantly. I’m kinda stoked to get it in and try it out.

[mschaffer66]

Originally Posted by HoodWelds

It wasn’t cheap but hopefully it’s the answer to my fan turning at warp speed constantly. I’m kinda stoked to get it in and try it out. Attachment 390313

Is that a stock replacement?

[HoodWelds]

Originally Posted by mschaffer66

Is that a stock replacement?

Yessir. That’s the part number Horton gave me when I provided my vin. I believe it’s an updated number from what they originally put in our coaches.

[HoodWelds]

Well it's changed and works as advertised. I couldn't find any numbers on the old one so not sure if it was a horton or had been changed to an inferior brand. It was toast though. Locked up solid.

[Toribk]

Hoodwelds,

Glad to see you successfully replaced your fan clutch....good job!

Perhaps you can provide some insight for MSCHAFFER on the steps to replace it since he is dealing with the same issue....unless he already had it done?

By your photos, it looks like you accessed it through your engine hatch in the rear of the coach?

[seadaze]

I just pulled mine and did it from the top. Little hard on the knees and back, take your and a couple of breaks. Most important - be patient. The attached PDF I found on an old post here. It is for an ISB engine, but the general way to go about it should work on the ISC. The ISB engine only has 4 bolts holding clutch flange to the hub through the spacer. I had to back out all 4 on mine since there is not enough clearance remove them one at a time. That looks to the case with the ISC too. Spray penetrant on the bolts and let soak for a day.

Lessons learned by me during removal:
1. Remove anti-rotation bracket first.
2. Have a strap wrench or even a pipe wrench handy for rotating the hub to get to all the bolts.
3. I took the fan/clutch off the hub and then unbolted the clutch from the fan.

New clutch will be here in a couple days. Installation hopefully goes smooth. I think the hardest part will be aligning the clutch and fan holes to start the first one.

Mike

[Toribk]

Thanks Mike.....I copy and pasted your notes and the pdf for future reference.

[HoodWelds]

I second that it is hard on the back and knees. Toribk you are correct on this model of coach the fan is accessed through the floor panel of the closet. My anti-rotation "plastic" strut broke when I touched it. But step one remove the 2 small bolts that secure electrical connection to the clutch. I then removed the fan bolts from the clutch. The reason I did it in this order was that once the clutch was removed from the hub I could easily fish it out between fan and shroud. Now when you remove the hub to clutch bolts you only have to partially remove the last bolt since the flange holes are slotted. This will help with alignment when installing the new clutch onto the hub. When you're doing the install make sure you don't tighten the hub bolts until they are all started because they are the perfect length and can get wedged between hub and back of clutch. I didn't need the strap wrench until I got to the point of doing the final torque on everything. But its definitely necessary. I used Horton Part number 9904010 purchased from freightliner here in Las Vegas.