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07-31-2013, 10:57 PM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn1
All, Is there any reason one could not replace the plastic with any aftermarket aluminum?
Scott, Wish I had your aluminum fabrication abilities-- I would definitely make my own. Mine has many stress cracks and assume I have maybe a year or less before failure. I plan on looking into the aftermarket tank taking dimensions of the available space. I assume the hoses can be extended to fit the new configuration?? Hopefully I am not over simplifying my approach
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greenhorn1,
I've been welding, ARC, OXY/ACE, TIG, MIG for decades. It's been used for income as well as a hobby. Even at my present age, it's still fun. If I had access to breaks (as in metal), I'd even be doing more. Those particular tanks, many of us have, that sits on top of the radiator and nestled VERY CLOSE TO THE RIGHT WALL of the engine compartment are in many cases, very difficult to R&R. Not many of us want to do it more than once. But, due to the fact that it is plastic and, subject to heat and cold and, THE ELEMENTS, and, some serious vibration, the lift span of them, for the most part, is not all that long. Some get more years, others get only a short time and have had as many as three of them in the time they've owned the coach.
But, as I stated quite sometime back, I'm not sure a metal (aluminum) one, in that same environment, enduring the same conditions (as in VIBRATION), would endure. This is where, experimenting (as in building one myself) would come into play. That way, if it went south after a short while, cracked, broke welds, broke brackets etc. it would only be the labor that I would loose. But, it sure is tempting!! Mine is a year or so old so, it's in fine shape, (right now anyway).
As far as the fitment of the hoses, that's not an issue. But, there is a sending unit located in it too, some small overflow hoses and some baffling. Based on the amount and frequency of failure rate of these, I'm really surprised that no ones come out with an aluminum replacement, in the same dimensions/size/brackets as the plastic ones. I think they'd make a killing on those. And, especially if they put a "sight glass" in them for level of coolant.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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08-01-2013, 04:12 PM
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#58
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,034
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Our other MH is a Dynasty rear rad. It too has a plastic tank and they have very short lifespan The Dynasty tank is probably 3 times as thick as the Bounder and still owners have problems. I replaced mine with an aluminum tank from Source Engineering and so far so good. The Bounder tank is in an awkward spot and building a tank from metal could be a problem. Is there a reason why it has to be mounted in that spot? Am I right in assuming it has to be higher than the rad?
__________________
Moisheh
2008 Dynasty 42' Diamond IV
1988 Bluebird PT38
2009 Silverado Toad
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08-04-2013, 02:46 PM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moisheh
Our other MH is a Dynasty rear rad. It too has a plastic tank and they have very short lifespan The Dynasty tank is probably 3 times as thick as the Bounder and still owners have problems. I replaced mine with an aluminum tank from Source Engineering and so far so good. The Bounder tank is in an awkward spot and building a tank from metal could be a problem. Is there a reason why it has to be mounted in that spot? Am I right in assuming it has to be higher than the rad?
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Sorry for the late reply,
Now, basically, since that's the entry point for all the coolant, I'm assuming that yes, it must be at the highest point and, it also incorporates the air space that's used to compress when the fluid expands due to heat. I'm no radiator/coolant expert here, just surmising. As I stated way earlier, one of my main concerns in replicating that plastic tank to aluminum would be vibration. If the mounting system could be somewhat "suspended", as in some decent rubber grommets, spacers etc. so there could be some sort of movement allowed. Oh, and yes, some sort of "eye" that the coolant level could be seen too. Or, I guess one could install some sort of "sight tube" that could of course take the heat etc. This might be a fun project. Hmmmmm.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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11-20-2016, 12:23 PM
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#60
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 28
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Plastic expansion tank
I am replacing the expansion coolant tank on my 2004 MADP, ISL Cummins,400hp with the Dorman 603-5201 plastic tank from Big Machine Parts. I have several questions about the tank;
(1) Is there opportunity built in the tank to install the coolant sensor ?
(2) I plan on fabricating/installing a UV protection shield over the tank. Will this preserve the tank?
(3)The tank is $65.00 + shipping. Has anyone replaced their tank with this particular model?
Thank you for any and all the info. I have read all the blogs I can read on this subject on our hangout. The 'metal' tank is a plan 'B' because of $$$.
Lowell & Judy
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12-27-2016, 08:47 PM
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#61
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Canyon, TX
Posts: 525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeandClaudia
I replaced mine in 2003 on my 1999 DSDP and that was the neighborhood I paid. I am frankly surprised that they hadn't gone up 20--30%. Look at the price of milk!
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Well fellow VICTIMS, I just had to replace my SECOND tank and "YIKES"
I feel as if the TERRORISTS have struck! It is metal, but it is not 24 K GOLD but it did cost me OVER $ 800 with shipping, a new $ 75.00 thermostat, and $40 + freight to get it from NEVADA.
I hope my Fl dealer took a very good look at me because it is absolutely the last time I am darkening their door.
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12-27-2016, 09:00 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 325
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I was lucky enough last year to find a plastic replacement from a vendor in Michigan. It was about $225. I installed it myself.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f26/plast...ml#post3105067
__________________
Bill
2002 Dutch Star
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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12-28-2016, 11:32 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ciderdog
Unfortunately on mine the plastic coolant tank is part of the pressurized cooling system (not an overflow tank like they used to use) so I think it would take quite a bit of engineering to make a replacement tank.
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Making a pressure vessel is not that hard for an engineer, and including the coolant level sensor likewise..
But when someone said "Cost of owning a motor home" any vehicle, the parts cost now days is outlandash.. Not to mention....
Well, in another thread the topic was Bicycles, the man went shopping and stopped when he saw the OVER SIX THOUSAND DOLLAR price tag... That is more than my one and only new car only about 40 years ago. Replacing a wheel on my bicycle today costs more than the bicycle it replaced did.
SO it's not just motor homes.
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Home is where I park it!
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01-07-2017, 01:40 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Apollo Beach & Key West , FL
Posts: 3,837
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FWIW- I replaced the tank on my old F53, v-10 about 7-8 years ago and the cost for the tank was about $150. Crazy for a piece of plastic.
__________________
2013 DS 4338
2015 F-150 toad with kayaks,bicycles and a Harley in the back
new toad 2023 Sprinter with all the toys inside
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02-06-2017, 06:33 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Granger, TX
Posts: 595
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I ordered a metal tank direct from FCCC parts a couple years ago. It was about $220. For an ISL 8.9. Side fan configuration.
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