Community Forums

vseasport · 01-17-2022, 06:09 AM

Long story but I need a new radiator, fan, hoses and assesories. Would like all OME parts if available and am not sure where to start.

What parts are freightliner and what parts are Caterpillar?

A list of everything that should be replaced while the radiator is out would be appreciated. I'm in a land that believes if it still works don't replace it. My beliefs are different.

Any input is appreciated.

The beginning of this adventure started here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f64/tale...ow-567454.html

DerekF · 01-17-2022, 07:12 AM

Replied on other thread
Look for place that custom builds them. Google search will find some.
Good luck

wolfe10 · 01-17-2022, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vseasport

Long story but I need a new radiator, fan, hoses and assesories. Would like all OME parts if available and am not sure where to start.

What parts are freightliner and what parts are Caterpillar?

A list of everything that should be replaced while the radiator is out would be appreciated. I'm in a land that believes if it still works don't replace it. My beliefs are different.

Any input is appreciated.

The beginning of this adventure started here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f64/tale...ow-567454.html

Radiator is Freightliner, as is the serpentine belt (they spec and install the dash A/C compressor and alternator).

The water pump belt is Caterpillar.

With radiator and CAC removed, I would replace both belts and the automatic belt tensioner. Check bearings on the water pump belt manual tensioner.

Carefully check for play in the fan hub. You are right on the line for when Caterpillar went from greasable to sealed bearings. If you have a grease zirk, you will know. If any play or you know they have not been greased as they should replace them. Both greasable and sealed assemblies are available from Caterpillar. If you will grease them, greasable is better. If not, sealed are better.

Check the water pump for any play or for weeping coolant from weep hole. Replace if needed or if you know coolant has been neglected.

Replace hoses if not silicone. Flush and fill with new coolant if you have to drain coolant. This is something that is time consuming to do correctly, but is within the capability of even a sometimes shade tree mechanic.

vseasport · 01-17-2022, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfe10

Radiator is Freightliner, as is the serpentine belt (they spec and install the dash A/C compressor and alternator).

The water pump belt is Caterpillar.

With radiator and CAC removed, I would replace both belts and the automatic belt tensioner. Check bearings on the water pump belt manual tensioner.

Carefully check for play in the fan hub. You are right on the line for when Caterpillar went from greasable to sealed bearings. If you have a grease zirk, you will know. If any play or you know they have not been greased as they should replace them. Both greasable and sealed assemblies are available from Caterpillar. If you will grease them, greasable is better. If not, sealed are better.

Check the water pump for any play or for weeping coolant from weep hole. Replace if needed or if you know coolant has been neglected.

Replace hoses if not silicone. Flush and fill with new coolant if you have to drain coolant. This is something that is time consuming to do correctly, but is within the capability of even a sometimes shade tree mechanic.

Thanks for this info.

Just had a chance to speak with the radiator repair shop. They said mine is an easy repair and that I would be crazy to trade it for the aluminum and plastic junk they are selling today. I am about convinced but would like others opinions.

FIRE UP · 01-17-2022, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vseasport

Thanks for this info.

Just had a chance to speak with the radiator repair shop. They said mine is an easy repair and that I would be crazy to trade it for the aluminum and plastic junk they are selling today. I am about convinced but would like others opinions.

Well Sir,
It's a long, long story but, here's the ultra short version. We acquired our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 right close to 10 years ago, with 40K on the clock. Within a few months after we bought it, it developed a coolant leak. Not being familiar with all the arrangement, components etc. of a diesel rear radiator coach, I had to dive into the unknown. I yanked the radiator, CAC and a few other components. Well, my aluminum/plastic radiator was junk.

At that time, Freightliner wanted $1,750 for a new one and it would take over three weeks to get it to me. The radiator shop that was helping with my analysis told me not to waste my money on that one. Within about minute on his computer, he located a copper/brass one that was my exact replacement dimensions, AND, it would be a mere $1,250 AND, he could get it to me in 24 hours.

That was as stated, close to 10 years ago. I've been running that Copper/brass one ever since and it's been working flawlessly. Of many radiator gods out there, many *claim* that an aluminum one will COOL BETTER than a regular copper/brass one. HORSE SH..... I know my coach and all its traits. I know exactly how that engine cools on any grades, outside temps, loads and more. It cools every bit as good with a copper/brass one than an aluminum one.

Are the aluminum ones bad? Nope, not at all. But, if a replacement c/b one can do the job equally, guess what my choice is!!!!!!

I have also replaced JUST THE BEARINGS of the serpentine tensioner, the serpentine idler, and the water pump tensioner. All of those components were good, they just needed the bearings replaced. If the serpentine tensioner has plenty of spring left, and shows no wear on the actual pulley, WHY purchase the entire unit for well over $200 ( alot more depending on where you procure your parts) if you can re-bearing it for $20.00? The same with the idler. And I recently (as in a couple of weeks ago) replaced the water pump tensioner bearings for $28.00 vs a new tensioner at a local CAT parts center at $220.00!!!

I used and continue to use DTNA to source as many part numbers as I can to assist in expediting what I need. It's a great source. One just needs to learn how to use it. But, there's alternatives too. I don't know if I've answered your question(s) or not.
Scott

desertdd · 01-22-2022, 04:07 PM

You might check these people. I got a CAC, and radiator from them. Fast shipping and they had it in stock. Use the Freighliner part number.
https://www.generalradiator.com/

vseasport · 01-23-2022, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Well Sir,
It's a long, long story but, here's the ultra short version. We acquired our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 right close to 10 years ago, with 40K on the clock. Within a few months after we bought it, it developed a coolant leak. Not being familiar with all the arrangement, components etc. of a diesel rear radiator coach, I had to dive into the unknown. I yanked the radiator, CAC and a few other components. Well, my aluminum/plastic radiator was junk.

At that time, Freightliner wanted $1,750 for a new one and it would take over three weeks to get it to me. The radiator shop that was helping with my analysis told me not to waste my money on that one. Within about minute on his computer, he located a copper/brass one that was my exact replacement dimensions, AND, it would be a mere $1,250 AND, he could get it to me in 24 hours.

That was as stated, close to 10 years ago. I've been running that Copper/brass one ever since and it's been working flawlessly. Of many radiator gods out there, many *claim* that an aluminum one will COOL BETTER than a regular copper/brass one. HORSE SH..... I know my coach and all its traits. I know exactly how that engine cools on any grades, outside temps, loads and more. It cools every bit as good with a copper/brass one than an aluminum one.

Are the aluminum ones bad? Nope, not at all. But, if a replacement c/b one can do the job equally, guess what my choice is!!!!!!

I have also replaced JUST THE BEARINGS of the serpentine tensioner, the serpentine idler, and the water pump tensioner. All of those components were good, they just needed the bearings replaced. If the serpentine tensioner has plenty of spring left, and shows no wear on the actual pulley, WHY purchase the entire unit for well over $200 ( alot more depending on where you procure your parts) if you can re-bearing it for $20.00? The same with the idler. And I recently (as in a couple of weeks ago) replaced the water pump tensioner bearings for $28.00 vs a new tensioner at a local CAT parts center at $220.00!!!

I used and continue to use DTNA to source as many part numbers as I can to assist in expediting what I need. It's a great source. One just needs to learn how to use it. But, there's alternatives too. I don't know if I've answered your question(s) or not.
Scott

Thanks for the tip on DTNA.

Just going through all the same stuff you did. My rig only has 47,000 miles so it is hard to believe but all the bearings were shot including the alternator.

It would be nice to have access to Freightliner part numbers so I just submitted an application to DTNA. They sent an auto reply that the app was in process. My immediate need is a new cooling fan and all radiator hoses. Hard to do anything without part numbers.