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Old 07-02-2022, 09:37 AM   #1
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Supersteer SS100 Bellcrank Installation

Has anyone with a 2011 or 2012 Freightliner XC Chassis installed the SS100 Bellcrank themselves.

If so, what puller did you use to seperate the arm from the bellcrank and did you do so without removing the lower two nuts on the arm holding the steering linkage.

Supersteer instructions say their is enough play to allow for the exchange, but I'm not convinced at this point after my pre-installation assessment.

Thanks.

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Old 07-03-2022, 07:18 AM   #2
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I tried and failed to remove the arm from the bellcrank even using their puller. After removing most of the play from the system by tightening the literally finger tight retaining nut on the factory bellcrank, I decided to just drive it and watch it
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Old 07-03-2022, 10:12 AM   #3
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Thanks for your response....sorry you couldn't get the arm off.

I've watched the video from Supersteer where they indicate that striking the side of the arm on the side directly at the shaft will jar it loose from the taper.

Others have confimed this on previous post I have read and the general consensus is to use at least a 5 lb sledge hammer as shown in the video.

I had no problem loosening the large nut holding the arm on with my large double ended trailer ball wrench, nor did I have any problems slightly loosening (for now) the 3 half-inch bolts holding the bellcrank to the frame rail.

What I'd really like to confirm from someone who has completed the task themselves is if their is enough play in the arm once it's loose at the top to remove and install the new bellcrank.

The lower part of that arm has two large nuts holding steering linkage fore and aft and the Supersteer instructions say it is not necessary to remove them?

Anyway, I intend to call Hendersons Lineup following the holiday weekend for additional clarification if I don't get a satisfactory response before then.

Enjoy your holiday!



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Old 07-03-2022, 10:33 AM   #4
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I installed one on a 2007 model FL XC chassis. I don't meet your requirements though...as mine is older so I can't answer your question. Good luck. BTW I didn't remove the lower linkage and didn't find any of it difficult.
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Old 07-03-2022, 10:50 AM   #5
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Rich,

Thanks for your response.

By the attached photos, can you tell me if your 2007 XC bellcrank, arm and steering linkage is the same?

Thanks.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-03-2022, 11:12 AM   #6
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I can confirm it is the same. My replacement was about 4 years ago...and I've slept since then and I'm old, so details aren't fresh in my mind. I don't recall having any issues though. Used air tools and I think the install was less than 30 minutes. I guess I was fortunate as my arm came off the bell crank easily with a few taps.
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Old 07-03-2022, 11:40 AM   #7
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Thanks....I presume then you were able to pull the top of the arm out far enough without removing the two bottom linkage bolts if the install was 30 minutes.

Enjoy your 4th.

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Old 07-11-2022, 02:25 PM   #8
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To all that were following this thread.

I finally got around to installing the Supersteer SS100 Bellcrank on my 2012 Freightliner XCM chassis this weekend and here are a few answers (and tips) to my original post regarding the installation.

On my year (2012) XCM chassis, the bellcrank is mounted on a square plate welded to the chassis rail and provides limited access to the 2 bolts at the top and the single bolt at bottom.

For the large 1 1/2 inch castle nut holding the bellcrank arm to the bellcrank tapered shaft, I used a large box head wrench for trailer hitch balls/nuts which you can find at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or most auto parts stores.

The large (long) box wrench gives you plenty of leverage to get the castle nut off without much effort once the cotter pin is removed.

Now, unless your lucky, the hardest part is dislodging the arm from the tapered spindle. I can say, the 5 Lb handheld sledge tapping on the side of the arm adjacent to the spindle recommended by Supersteer in their video didn't work in my case.

I went to plan B and bought a heavy duty two claw puller from Auto Zone (see photo). Because of limited space, I cut off the (threaded) center punch and was able to release the tapered arm from the shaft with a good deal of torque and a startingly (Oh #@%*!) thud.

I then pulled the arm off the spindle and gently moved it down and forward on the front steering linkage.

Now, with your coach aired up, you can sit up inside the drivers wheel well and use a typical size slanted 3/4 box head wrench for the 2 top bolts and a smaller (stubby) slanted box wrench for the bottom nut to hold them in place while using a 1/2 inch drive and standard 3/4 inch socket and ratchet to remove all three nuts and bolts.

This should be your removal order. Nine o'clock first, six o'clock second and 3 o'clock last. Careful removing the last one as the bellcrank does have some weight to it.
(Note: For safety, I left 3 and 6 finger tight until I was ready to remove the whole thing)

I installed everything in reverse order tightening the bellcrank bolts to 95 ft lbs. and the bellcrank castle nut to 150 ft.lbs which lined the inside cotter pin hole up in the shaft perfectly for my Freightliner set-up.

Took it out for a test drive and the steering characteristics are noticeably different than before....smooth and tight.

I hope this helps others who are contemplating the same upgrade.Click image for larger version

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