Lug Nut Torque

[gregk]

Preparing for trip to Kerrville and it dawned on me that I needed to check torque on Lug Nuts on the Rv. For the life of me I cannot remember the torque value and thought some body on the forum here might remember off the top of their head. Seems like it is 160 ft lbs. If no one can remember I will drag out the New Horizon's manual and find. Guess I am taking the lazy mans path asking here on the forum but thought asking might remind folks to check them from time to time. Thanks in advance for any replies from anyone that has a better memory that me.

[rollondown]

5/8 Wheel stud 130-140 with no lubricant.

[DTVGuy]

Originally Posted by gregk

Preparing for trip to Kerrville and it dawned on me that I needed to check torque on Lug Nuts on the Rv. For the life of me I cannot remember the torque value and thought some body on the forum here might remember off the top of their head. Seems like it is 160 ft lbs. If no one can remember I will drag out the New Horizon's manual and find. Guess I am taking the lazy mans path asking here on the forum but thought asking might remind folks to check them from time to time. Thanks in advance for any replies from anyone that has a better memory that me.

Depends on the size of the studs:

5/8” need 140 – 150 foot lbs.
120 foot lbs for the 9/16”

If you don’t know which size you have: the 5/8” have what looks to be a flat washer, a flange, on the nut that clamps down on the wheel. 9/16” nuts don’t have the flange and set down into the hole of the wheel.

Remember to check the torque after you drive for a couple of hours the first couple of times at least. It can take, depends, several hundred miles for the lugs to seat properly. Recall trailer tires aren’t like truck tires. Due to turning forces with multiple axles they can work themselves loose.

I check ours often and carry the torque wrench in the truck for easy access.

[shill]

Originally Posted by DTVGuy

Depends on the size of the studs:

5/8” need 140 – 150 foot lbs.
120 foot lbs for the 9/16”

I wonder how it is initially determined which size stud will be on a rig's hubs? If the rig is a three axle New Horizons fifth wheel, then are all likely to be the same or will it vary dependent on length and/or weight, or wheel size and tires? Example.....Goodyear H rated 215/75R17.5's are on our fifth wheel and on many other fifth wheels which may be longer, shorter and have varying GVWR's. What is the determining factor in stud diameter?

[DTVGuy]

Originally Posted by shill

I wonder how it is initially determined which size stud will be on a rig's hubs? If the rig is a three axle New Horizons fifth wheel, then are all likely to be the same or will it vary dependent on length and/or weight, or wheel size and tires? Example.....Goodyear H rated 215/75R17.5's are on our fifth wheel and on many other fifth wheels which may be longer, shorter and have varying GVWR's. What is the determining factor in stud diameter?

Not a direct answer but a comment / opinion:

Are the 5/8” stronger? Yes, but overkill regardless of the trailer weight as the limiting factor, on 7 or 8K axles, is the hub, not the bolt / stud. The hubs are the same hub regardless of the axle be it 7K or 8K. (“H” tires are not the load limiting factor – it’s the hubs or the axle rating PER SIDE, not total, combined weight on the axles.)

Lug nuts will come off way more often than a bolt breaking due to not being torqued properly and checked often. And if one bolt breaks, unlikely if properly torqued, the other 7 will hold the wheel until inspected at the next stop. Everyone does inspect the lugs at each stop, don’t they? Read on please.

We spec-ed 9/16” for two reasons: 1) If one torques 48 lugs @ the 150 lb feet required its really hard. Your wrist will hurt. At least many will. And this needs to be done several times after a tire is removed and reinstalled to get all 8 to seat properly. 2) One should always check the lug torque and with the 5/8” there is a plastic “Hub Cap” that is a real pain to install and remove. So, either the lugs never get checked or the cap is left off.

As the 5/8” are not required the 9/16” are, IMO, a more practical and just as safe lug. If one wants to overkill, go ahead. But checking the lugs is really important and those that leave the hub caps on usually don’t check the lugs. It’s just too much trouble.

Many, many miles of experience determining these opinions – most with 9/16” Actually removed the 5/8” due to issues mentioned.

Naturally if one has 9K or 10K axles that’s a different story and opinion. But 9K / 10K axles are not that common on NH rigs and are usually found on 2 axle trailers.

FWIW

[shill]

Originally Posted by DTVGuy

Not a direct answer but a comment / opinion:

Are the 5/8” stronger? Yes, but overkill regardless of the trailer weight as the limiting factor, on 7 or 8K axles, is the hub, not the bolt / stud. The hubs are the same hub regardless of the axle be it 7K or 8K. (“H” tires are not the load limiting factor – it’s the hubs or the axle rating PER SIDE, not total, combined weight on the axles.)

Lug nuts will come off way more often than a bolt breaking due to not being torqued properly and checked often. And if one bolt breaks, unlikely if properly torqued, the other 7 will hold the wheel until inspected at the next stop. Everyone does inspect the lugs at each stop, don’t they? Read on please.

We spec-ed 9/16” for two reasons: 1) If one torques 48 lugs @ the 150 lb feet required its really hard. Your wrist will hurt. At least many will. And this needs to be done several times after a tire is removed and reinstalled to get all 8 to seat properly. 2) One should always check the lug torque and with the 5/8” there is a plastic “Hub Cap” that is a real pain to install and remove. So, either the lugs never get checked or the cap is left off.

As the 5/8” are not required the 9/16” are, IMO, a more practical and just as safe lug. If one wants to overkill, go ahead. But checking the lugs is really important and those that leave the hub caps on usually don’t check the lugs. It’s just too much trouble.

Many, many miles of experience determining these opinions – most with 9/16” Actually removed the 5/8” due to issues mentioned.

Naturally if one has 9K or 10K axles that’s a different story and opinion. But 9K / 10K axles are not that common on NH rigs and are usually found on 2 axle trailers.

FWIW

Thank you so much for that highly informative reply. I admit to ignorance regarding the significance of the 9/16 vs 5/8. As a result, our NH has what it has without my specifying one or the other (Guess I'll have to call and find out). Our NH is sitting at NH awaiting our pickup and that won't happen until our truck is finished at the upfitter..... I am one who will torque the lug nuts appropriately whichever size I have.....guess if I have the 5/8", I'll either be sore as H... or buffed up....lol. Again, thanks....that clears up my confusion.

[Burrington]

I have the 5/8" nuts with hub caps. Yes, the hub caps are a pain to remove, but I found that using a pry bar like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-...515K/100093815 it is easy to remove the cap and eliminates any excuse to not check the torque.

I wrap the end of the pry bar with duct tape to avoid scratching the wheel or hub cap.

[HDrider]

I know one thing, I checked the lug nuts at every stop on our way down from NH to the rally and we made at least 2 stops for no other reason than to check them and each and every time I found at least one that I was able to tighten some, not much but some. I'm guessing but I bet I checked them 4 times in the 750 mile drive down here not counting when we originally left NH. I guess I will keep doing it that regular until I stop finding that I can turn at least one every time, then maybe I'll go to every other stop I guess. I don't know, it's not really a big deal to do, unless it's pouring down rain I guess, then I might change my tune.

[Dennis Z]

We recently completed 3,000 plus miles. Like HDrider, I checked every 250 to 300 miles or so and found 3 to 6 tighten just a little. After 1500 miles or so I found maybe 1 or 2 barely move. At that point I checked every 500 to 600 miles barely moving 0 to 2. I’ll probably stay at that distance. I also check before starting a trip if were parked a week or more. During our orientation, Harold at NH told me to torque at 140 - 145 lbs.

[DTVGuy]

Originally Posted by Dennis Z

We recently completed 3,000 plus miles. Like HDrider, I checked every 250 to 300 miles or so and found 3 to 6 tighten just a little. After 1500 miles or so I found maybe 1 or 2 barely move. At that point I checked every 500 to 600 miles barely moving 0 to 2. I’ll probably stay at that distance. I also check before starting a trip if were parked a week or more.

Based on our 150,000 miles of experience, that's the same. They will eventually "seat," but it takes about 700 miles or so before they really settle in and then the checking can be less often. One way to get them "seated" quicker is to tighten in 3 steps of torque the first time. 80, then 120, then 150 ft lbs. or so for the 5/8". Obviously for the 9/16" those numbers are a bit lower. Just works better, but not required. All this from MORryde who know a lot about all this.

[jenandjon]

Glad to see that I'm not the only one who carries a torque wrench.

[dadej]

I thought I had seen the correct torque somewhere in the manual or on the GVWR sticker on the NH fifth but can't find it. Could the factory give us advice as to the correct wheel torque on the NH. I understand 16" vs 17.5", 7000#, 8000# etc axles are different but ALL of my vehicles have this number in the manual. Please clear this up for us!

[ChrisK.]

New Horizons is currently overhauling its owners manual to make sure all info is up-to date. We are also considering a digital copy for owners so they can add it to their desktop for easier access.

[dadej]

Originally Posted by ChrisK.

New Horizons is currently overhauling its owners manual to make sure all info is up-to date. We are also considering a digital copy for owners so they can add it to their desktop for easier access.

You did not answer the question of the wheel torque. How tight should my 7000# dexter axles be torqued to?