Pump and Pressure Tanks etc.

[ralper]

I recently changed my cold water plumbing. I installed a pressure reducing valve permanently in the water feed as it enters the trailer (inside). The outlet of the pressure regulator has a pressure gauge installed. I closed the barn door after the horse got out as I had previously connected to a 100 PSI water source, without the pressure regulator, and blew out the diaphram in the pressure tank. With the gauge, I set the pump pressure at 25 PSI start and 45 PSI stop. There is an adjustment screw on the pump end of the pump, as opposed to the motor end. The new (next week 4/12/2010) pressure tank will be pre-pressurized to 21 PSI. Keeping the tank pressure below the pump start pressure stops the tank chatter. The chatter is the tank diaphram closing off the tank discharge. Start the pump before that happens. Without a pressure gauge it is impossible to do any adjustment correctly.

I also installed a pipe with a valve from the hot water pipe under the bath sink to the fresh water tank feed. To get hot water from the rear water heater to the sink takes 2.5 cups of water. I now put that water back into the fresh water tank instead of into the gray tank. I open the valve just inside the vanity door and count to 8 then shut it off. The hot water is there. I like to boondock and every drop saved counts.

I also got rid of the two three way valves that had to be operated to fill the fresh water tank and installed one valve that is easy to reach.

See you all at the RALLY.

Ralph & Snickers

[ralper]

With the pump and tank adjusted as above my pump runs about 30 seconds between start and stop.