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Old 12-13-2011, 08:34 AM   #295
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JimEli...thanks for that info. We also believe it's the so called 'springs' under our mattress that's causing our sagging problem. Our trailer is in storage for the winter but if you come up with a solution please post it. Our dealer replaced the mattress and we took it out one time after that and still noticed it sagging in the middle. That's when we began checking out the foundation under it. We were just thinking of putting a plywood board under the mattress. In all of the various rv's we've owned across the years it's the first time we've ever had a 'foundation' under the mattress like our Cougar.
Also, we saw the plastic film you're talking about at an RV Show a number of years ago but haven't seen it offered for a long time anywhere. We thought maybe it did something to the paint and the company had to pull it off the market. Not sure about this though.
Keep us posted. Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrant09 View Post
Where did you find the plastic for the front of the trailer? I would like to order some prior to next summer.. Thanks a bunch..
Made by 3M, I think its called ClearGaurd or ClearMask, it comes in rolls of 10' and can be bought at an auto parts store ($$$). But clear, self-adhesive shelving paper is a far cheaper alternative.

Spray water on the adhesive side before applying which will allow you to adjust its position. Then use a plastic squeegee to squeeze out the water/bubbles. It will completely dry in the sun in about one day.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:57 PM   #297
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These attached pictures show what is under your mattress and why it sags. The platform under the mattress is completely covered in black cloth stapled to the wooden frame. I removed the staples and discovered a 2x4 frame, which lays flat, so the actual height is 1-1/2. Then a 7x10 interwoven matrix of 2-3/4 wide elastic strapping is what actually supports the mattress. The elastic straps appear to be a wider version of the elastic waist band found on Fruit-Of-The-Loom underwear.

Really.

Really?

Id say its about as strong as a 1960s vintage lawn chair. No wonder the mattress sags with anything heavier than a newborn baby on it.

Im contemplating options to strengthen the support without adding a substantial amount of weight.

More to follow.
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:41 PM   #298
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Experiment #1: 4 - 1x4x56" slats running laterally reduces the sag to about 1/3 of the original, and the additional weight is negligible. So, I think I can construct something lightweight that should nearly eliminate the sag.
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:10 AM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimEli View Post
Experiment #1: 4 - 1x4x56" slats running laterally reduces the sag to about 1/3 of the original, and the additional weight is negligible. So, I think I can construct something lightweight that should nearly eliminate the sag.

How about after the 1x4's, covering this in a luan? It is very light and may provide enough support between the slats to cure the sag. The struts may have to be beefed up to hold the additional weight as ours barely held the bed when it was made. Unfortunately, our trailer is at the repair facility for a long warranty list otherwise we would try this. I guess it goes on the to-do list..
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:31 PM   #300
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How about after the 1x4's, covering this in a luan? It is very light and may provide enough support between the slats to cure the sag. The struts may have to be beefed up to hold the additional weight as ours barely held the bed when it was made. Unfortunately, our trailer is at the repair facility for a long warranty list otherwise we would try this. I guess it goes on the to-do list..
Thinking of getting this model what are the problems you have had with it. Thanks DJB
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:39 PM   #301
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How about a sheet of MDF pegboard on top of you new framework?
If you really want your frame work to be light, 1" x 3" alluminum channel.
(granted, not cheap)
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:36 AM   #302
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How about a sheet of MDF pegboard on top of you new framework?
If you really want your frame work to be light, 1" x 3" alluminum channel.
(granted, not cheap)
The peg board would allow for a little air to circulate under neath the mattress.. I do not know which might provide a stronger backing..
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:48 AM   #303
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I think I can get substantial stiffness out of something much lighter than the simple pegboard/plywood solution. Or at least I'm going to try. I considered the aluminum angle channel, but the cost is too much for me.

I'm removing the frame from the TT today to start the project.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:55 AM   #304
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Let me just say I am completely and totally frustrated with my camper at this point!!!! I want to call Pete's RV and tell them to pick it up and give me my money back (which I know they won't do)!!!!

Does anyone have a list of things that Keystone will and will NOT cover under the 1 year warranty? I dropped my camper off for warranty work this past weekend at a dealership about 2 hours from me. (I bought from Pete's RV in Vermont and had it transported to me in Maryland since I got it for about $8,000 LESS than anywhere within 4 hours of me would do. -- Now, I'm kicking myself for that so please don't rub that in at this point! It's like rubbing salt into the wound and I don't need that right now!) I had it cleared with this RV dealer in Virginia that they WOULD indeed cover the warranty work for my camper even though I did not buy from them. I spoke to them on the phone about a month ago, told them what kind of camper I had.... Yep, no problem we will do it!

Well, on Saturday, I drove 2 hours each way (with a $12.00 toll) only for them to call me this morning and tell me they are NOT going to do the warranty work cause it's too many things. I'm livid!!!! How can they do this? I gave the man at the repair counter my list of warranty issues and he said, "no problem.. we will take care of it!" They told me weeks ago they would do the warranty stuff, I made an appointment to drop it off on Saturday and now all of a sudden when they start going through the list they won't do it!!! There is a HUGE sign in the repair department that says, "We do warranty work!"

I don't even know what to do at this point. I'm soo mad and ready to blow my lid!!!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:38 PM   #305
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Sorry to hear that some are having problems, I realize that they all have some problems but warranty problems are a different story. With that in mind I see that Jayco has a similar design with the 330 RLDS, I think I should look into that one also. There is a dealer close to me so that would be a big plus.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:14 PM   #306
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I would limit warranty work to 4-5 items per visit. All of my warranty work was preceded by a written letter identifying the problem/issue (with supporting photos) sent to Keystone service and sales departments with copies submitted to the repair station. I asked them to identify a repair shop and contact. They responded to all of my requests and advised.

I fix what I can, and limit the warranty work to what I can’t accomplish or items that need replacement. I imagine unreasonable, lengthy and/or nitpicky requests could very easily be turned down.
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:50 PM   #307
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I know that most of my TT instability comes from the suspension/springs with the stabilizers down, but the rocking is still too great for my liking. Has anyone experimented with a jack stabilization/triangulation system on their 321RES?

Like this one: http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/jts-strong-arm-jack-stabilizers-jts-stabilizers.html

Because simple jack stands like these are much cheaper: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979004.html

Yet they're far more time consuming to set up.

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Old 12-20-2011, 08:10 PM   #308
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I have had good luck with trailer rocking by using these - Ultra-Deluxe Chock and Lock . Once I've got everything leveled, I put the Chock & Lock's on and its pretty good, not totally eliminated, but the DW doesn't complain so I figure I'm doing good !

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