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Old 12-21-2011, 12:28 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie2 View Post
I have had good luck with trailer rocking by using these - Ultra-Deluxe Chock and Lock . Once I've got everything leveled, I put the Chock & Lock's on and its pretty good, not totally eliminated, but the DW doesn't complain so I figure I'm doing good !

Jimmie
Jimmie,
Thanks for the link there on the chocks.. We have been using the plastic ones from Wally World and I bet these are much safer and with the current sale, not much more $$..
For the instability, I was able to get the trailer comfortable with the standard electric stabilizers, it takes an adjustment or two, but we usually can get it.. I have been careful not to over load the stabilizers as they are not meant to jack the trailer up.
Dan
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:28 PM   #310
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Gettin' ready for our New Year's trip with Turtle-1 and few others. Just finished waxin' the Cougar and it looks "smooth as GLASS"!!! Oh and I also put 303 on all of the outside seals so as not to have any leaks to ruin our trip. Can't wait to go campin', been 4 weeks since we were out last. Going this time for almost a week!!!

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Old 12-21-2011, 02:31 PM   #311
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Quote:
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Jimmie,
Thanks for the link there on the chocks.. We have been using the plastic ones from Wally World and I bet these are much safer and with the current sale, not much more $$..
For the instability, I was able to get the trailer comfortable with the standard electric stabilizers, it takes an adjustment or two, but we usually can get it.. I have been careful not to over load the stabilizers as they are not meant to jack the trailer up.
Dan
Yea I started out using those plastic ones, but I could never get them in far enough under the tires to keep it stable and keep the DW happy. Much better now with the locking chocks. Try them out!!!

Jimmie
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:48 PM   #312
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JimEli-
I just installed the Eliminator stabilizer kit by Ultra Fab and was told it is the same as the JT strong arm. Got it from Tweety's RV in TX. for $262.87 free shipping. This type of stabilizer triangulates the stabilizer arm to the frame and does a great job to take the movement out of our RV. I used 2 arms forward and 2 rearward and the other 2 I added about 31"s to the 1 1/4" pipe to allow it to reach from arm pad on one side to the oppisite side frame. With the way the stabilizers are mounted to the bottom of the rv in a channel that slides back and forth no wonder there is so much rock and roll. This kit is good quality and has plenty mounting options.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:56 PM   #313
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JimEli-
One other thing, I was using wheel chocks and tire chocks which was better than nothing but with the eliminator stabilizer you don't need the tire chocks at all and it eliminates 98% of movement IMO.
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:37 PM   #314
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JimEli-
One other thing, I was using wheel chocks and tire chocks which was better than nothing but with the eliminator stabilizer you don't need the tire chocks at all and it eliminates 98% of movement IMO.
Thanks, that's the kind of feedback I was looking for. We're using the BAL expanding tire chocks too. IMHO, the chocks don't eliminate enough of the rocking. We have been in the TT approaching 2 months now and we need something more. When our 15lb dachshunds run between bedroom and living room, the rocking is amazing, and unacceptable.

ON another note, the bed support is out and modifications are being performed. It comes out easily, after removing the 4 hinge screws and popping the struts ends off.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:14 AM   #315
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clickster-
When you get chance, can you post a picture of how you set that up? How did you bolt to the frame and where does it connect to the levelers? I'd be interested in that setup if it makes the DW even happier
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:50 PM   #316
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I am happy to report, the mattress is not the problem.

I screwed (4) 1x4 slats laterally across the top of the wooden frame. The slats started approximately 1’ from the head of the bead, and are spaced to fit in the area between every other elastic strap. Underneath the 1x4 slats, I placed a 2x2 to form a ‘T-bar’. The 2x2’s were screwed/glued to the 1x4 slats. The resulting strength is phenomenal, as I can stand on an individual slat without any sag. Total cost for the project was under $20 with negligible weight gain.

Sweet dreams…
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:03 AM   #317
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I am happy to report, the mattress is not the problem.

I screwed (4) 1x4 slats laterally across the top of the wooden frame. The slats started approximately 1’ from the head of the bead, and are spaced to fit in the area between every other elastic strap. Underneath the 1x4 slats, I placed a 2x2 to form a ‘T-bar’. The 2x2’s were screwed/glued to the 1x4 slats. The resulting strength is phenomenal, as I can stand on an individual slat without any sag. Total cost for the project was under $20 with negligible weight gain.

Sweet dreams…
Thank you for looking and working on this problem - - looks like I have an item on the honey-do list for this spring.. Sure do miss not being able to camp or even having the camper at the house..
Did you get the factory cover back on the bed frame?
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:33 AM   #318
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Thank you for looking and working on this problem - - looks like I have an item on the honey-do list for this spring.. Sure do miss not being able to camp or even having the camper at the house..
Did you get the factory cover back on the bed frame?
If the mattress does turn out to be a problem. Check out the options at the Mattress Ranch.

I had a Class C with the world's worst mattress. I bought a replacement at the Mattress Ranch. I know the commercials can be annoying but the prices were reasonable and I got a great mattress. Nice pillow top queen.
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:01 AM   #319
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I reinstalled the black cloth as it easily covers my modification. It has lots of excess material. BTW, the Keystone installer was probably paid by the staple.
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:06 PM   #320
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It may be awhile before I can post pics, I just took it back to storage, but I will try to spare a thousand words and describe the install. On all 4 stabilizer pads you replace the bolt that holds the pad on the arm with an eye bolt from the kit. On the front I mounted the other end attachment to the bottom of the tongue frame, this will locate the stabilizer bar low enough to not interfer with the middle pivot arms and I used the square mount with a short eyebolt(drill and tap 2 holes for the square mount and eyebolt locates in middle of the mount). Inside tube end bolts to pad eyebolt on each of the 4 pads so the locking t-bolt is reachable. The rears I drilled thru the I-frame on RV toward the front and used stiffener plates top and bottom of frame with short eyebolt and other short bolt(also in kit). On the 4 bars (pipe inside a pipe 2 front 2 rear) bolt to the pad eye bolt first with stabilizers up and extend at least 1" then find the mount location for the other end. Where the bar ends bolt to the eyes I replaced the supplied bolts with 7/16 bolts because they tightened up the connections may have to drill out powdercoat in bar ends. The cross bars I decided to lengthen to reach from backside pad to frontside frame. On the front I put a short eyebolt thru the pad bolt that connects front bar to connect the cross bar and on the frontside I drilled thru the tongue frame and installed a medium eyebolt with washers for the other end mount. On the rear cross bar I drilled a hole thru the pad arm to install a short eyebolt because angles and clearance was a problem otherwise. On the other side I drilled thru the lower bumper frame (short piece) and mounted Medium eyebolt simular to the front. This will probably make no sense untill you are looking at the kit and under your cougar. There are install instructions that come with the kit but they are general and not specific to our units. It took me about 5hrs to complete not counting extending the 2 cross bars. This link will show install options and parts break down.
http://manage.ultra-fabproducts.com/...48-9790078.pdf
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:27 PM   #321
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No problem clickster...I'm sure I can figure it out but thought it would make more sense if I saw some pictures of the installation. I probably won't even get to it for a few months yet...the DW has some backyard work for me to finish from last year that I have been putting off.

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Old 12-26-2011, 04:26 PM   #322
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FYI:
12v converter manual:
http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/Image...rDocs/14-3.pdf
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