Community Forums

JimEli · 02-13-2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iluvcamping

JimEli....to answer your questions....1. our F-150 doesn't have manual shifting option. 2. I don't have any suspension modifications and 3. There isn't any rear axle sag. It does have a few second vibrate on slow take off when were pulling the trailer. Again, 2 different dealers say there isn't anything wrong with the truck. Go figure!
We travel with very little water ...just enough for an emergency if needed and our propane tanks are usually full....at least 1 of them always is. I've heard the theory before that there should be some water in the tank for equal weight....Guess I'll give that a try. Our truck does have the so called 'trailer sway' feature that you can turn on and off which, I guess, is part of the max towing feature of a Ford.
Lots of good information and suggestions on this forum...really appreciate it!

I compared the wheelbase and track of an F150 vs. Tundra and they are nearly identical. I assume your F150 is a SuperCab or SuperCrew, which increases your wheelbase 20-40"--longer being better. That leaves shocks and tires. Both are important ingredients to reducing sway. Old, cheap tires and warn shocks will contribute. I assume a stock suspension. Given good tires and shocks, you might want to look into air-bags. I put a set on my truck for under $300 and ½ day work. I wouldn’t go without them. Many claim they don't increase capacity, and while that statement is technically true, consider air-bags are exactly how a tractor-trailer handles load variance. I have an onboard compressor and pressurize my bags to 30-40 psi. All I can add is that I have no sway issues.

Finally remember, speed causes sway. I’ll say it again, SPEED CAUSES SWAY. A truck/trailer combination could be dynamically stable at 50 mph and completely unmanageable at 55. I try to keep my speed near 65. If you are attempting 75 or more, then I would suggest a bigger truck/smaller trailer combination.

golfpro · 02-13-2012, 08:54 PM

now I know why I never have any sway with my TT. I don't ever drive that fast. Once I told DW I wanted to buy a radar detector. Her response, "Why? When was the last time you ever drove over the speed limit on the Highway?" I hate it when she's right!

martyf · 02-13-2012, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimEli

I compared the wheelbase and track of an F150 vs. Tundra and they are nearly identical. I assume your F150 is a SuperCab or SuperCrew, which increases your wheelbase 20-40"--longer being better. That leaves shocks and tires. Both are important ingredients to reducing sway. Old, cheap tires and warn shocks will contribute. I assume a stock suspension. Given good tires and shocks, you might want to look into air-bags. I put a set on my truck for under $300 and ½ day work. I wouldn’t go without them. Many claim they don't increase capacity, and while that statement is technically true, consider air-bags are exactly how a tractor-trailer handles load variance. I have an onboard compressor and pressurize my bags to 30-40 psi. All I can add is that I have no sway issues.

Finally remember, speed causes sway. I’ll say it again, SPEED CAUSES SWAY. A truck/trailer combination could be dynamically stable at 50 mph and completely unmanageable at 55. I try to keep my speed near 65. If you are attempting 75 or more, then I would suggest a bigger truck/smaller trailer combination.

I too have a Tundra, with air bags, WD hitch and I am running 285/65 tires, kinda tall, but I run them at 60 psi, and I dont go over 65. I have seen 75 but not on purpose.............and still no sway

golfpro · 02-14-2012, 12:10 AM

Have another question. this is about lack of out side storage. Do you find you have enough storage for camping stuff with only the front storage? How do you transport you floding chairs, generator, tools, etc. the list goes on and on.

martyf · 02-14-2012, 05:22 AM

if it dosent fit in the small up front storage it goes in the back on the truck..........................

Jimmie2 · 02-14-2012, 10:05 AM

I actually took the wide plastic drawer that was in my last trailer and installed it in my Cougar. Not quite as much room for storage as my Outback, but I do like the drawer as I can reach the middle of the unit very easily. I then store long narrow items along side the drawer. I then stack any folding chairs between the two couches when the slides are in. I usually put my loaded cooler just inside the door right before I am ready to leave. I also keep a couple of the Rubbermaid totes in the bed of the truck that carry electric cords (that monster 50amp momba) and my leveler blocks.

Plastic drawer: Plastic Drawer, 87 1/2 x 15 x 8, fits Pilgrim 03-R451

Rubbermaid totes: Amazon.com: Rubbermaid 1172 ActionPacker Storage Box, 24 Gallon: Home & Kitchen

I just made it work I guess.

Jimmie

golfpro · 02-14-2012, 08:06 PM

started reading the post on this 321 RES from the first page. one said that it gets and stays hot in the bedroom at night. I found that you can turn the A/C vents in the living area closed and you can get more air in the bed room. this works for me as I only have one other person in the TT and that is the wife. I am getting the bed room vent wired for a second A/C in case this doesn't work out for us. Also thinking of getting a 12 volt fan for the foot of the bed.

golfpro · 02-14-2012, 09:14 PM

just thought of another question. I saw the awning is only 12 foot but can it it be lowed at one end for rain run off? Is there an electric plug in the bed side of the bedroom or the clothes closet for my CPAP machine?

Grizz · 02-14-2012, 10:17 PM

Golfpro, yes the awning can be lowered on one end for rain run off. My DW also uses a CPAP machine. There is an electrical outlet on the bathroom side of the bed. Her machine sits in the shelf above the bed and so far has worked out okay.

golfpro · 02-14-2012, 11:24 PM

thanks Grizz. so many things to think about. we want so much for this TT to be the one for us. Just a lot of little things we are thinking about and/or keep popping up and I am hoping we can get this to work out. The one thing I am not really happy with is the only storage is in the front. If I can't get that one to work for me, I may have to go to a fifth wheel for more storage.

dgrant09 · 02-15-2012, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfpro

started reading the post on this 321 RES from the first page. one said that it gets and stays hot in the bedroom at night. I found that you can turn the A/C vents in the living area closed and you can get more air in the bed room. this works for me as I only have one other person in the TT and that is the wife. I am getting the bed room vent wired for a second A/C in case this doesn't work out for us. Also thinking of getting a 12 volt fan for the foot of the bed.

Our problem was even heat distribution in the trailer - so we replaced round vent by the fuse box on the hall side of the kitchen counter with a vent that we can close. This is area pretty close to the thermostat and I felt it had a strong impact on what the heat and AC were doing. The new vent was a perfect match. I may change out more vents with vents that we can control the opening on..

golfpro · 02-15-2012, 10:12 AM

as of some the previous posts about cost of this unit. I got a quote from my local dealer for35K and called the dealer in a near by state and he quoted me 40K. lot of money difference, can buy a lot of little things for the TT. and some gas to pull it. The dealer in the other state believes in supply and demand. he just sold one to a guy who was heading for the oil state of North Dakota. bet he didn't pay any thing less than 42K. he needed it and he got it, right in the back. we are going to a rv show on this Friday, will really take my time and look this unit over. then come home and order one from local guy. right now it's too cold to do a complete walk around. Friday is suppose to be in the 50's. lot better than the 30's. I hate you guys who already have yours LOL

martyf · 02-15-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfpro

started reading the post on this 321 RES from the first page. one said that it gets and stays hot in the bedroom at night. I found that you can turn the A/C vents in the living area closed and you can get more air in the bed room. this works for me as I only have one other person in the TT and that is the wife. I am getting the bed room vent wired for a second A/C in case this doesn't work out for us. Also thinking of getting a 12 volt fan for the foot of the bed.

WE live In hot humid south, soooo when I was offered a second AC in the bedroom for 750$ I jumped!!! the main unit will be a 15000 btu and the second over the bedroom is a 13500

golfpro · 02-15-2012, 09:00 PM

I have been rereading all the posts on the 321 RES starting from page one. I know for a fact that all trailers and 5'ers and MH's are not built as if it was rocket science. they fall apart and the appliances do not work when you want them too. they go down the road and simply shake themselves apart. one guy said one dealer would give him 10% off accessories for one year. I bought my forest River in 99 and I still get the !0% off at the RV store to this day. But then I did work there for two years recently and now I still get the employee discount which is better yet. When I was there all customers who bought from us got 10% of and they were customers from way back like I am. Maybe it's just my local dealer saying thanks for buying from us. I plan on making my water pump quiet when mine comes in, there are simple ways of doing that. I found out the A/C ducts are able to be closed and if it's warm in the bed room just close off a few out lets in the living area. the bed room vent is not wired at the factory unless you order it wired and it is a $100 option you pay for or negotiate for. I will be back with more when I finish reading the rest of the posts again.