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Old 04-14-2012, 10:51 AM   #477
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Since buying new tires (Michelins and not sure why that changed everything) I have had a heck of time getting the right setup again as the trailer is swaying all over the place at highway speeds.
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Jimmie2,

I'm getting ready to replace my oem tires. I'm curious about the model/size of Michelins you installed?

Thx,
Jim
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:18 PM   #478
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Jimmie2,

I'm getting ready to replace my oem tires. I'm curious about the model/size of Michelins you installed?
Hey Jim,
These are the tires that I put on my RAM 2500 - Michelin*LTX A/T 2

They ride great but like I said, once they were installed, everything changed for towing. I'll let ya know after I go out again next weekend to see if changing the hitch setup worked.

Jimmie
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #479
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Jimmie,
Are you sure you got the load range E version? The same size tire also comes in a 113S load version which has a thinner side wall. This could make a big difference in sway. I had a tire shop make that mistake on my truck a few years back and didn't catch it until a couple weeks later.

Regards,
Mike
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:21 PM   #480
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Jimmie,
Are you sure you got the load range E version? The same size tire also comes in a 113S load version which has a thinner side wall. This could make a big difference in sway. I had a tire shop make that mistake on my truck a few years back and didn't catch it until a couple weeks later.

Regards,
Mike
Yep, Says Load Range E on the sidewall
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:01 AM   #481
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These are the tires that I put on my RAM 2500 - Michelin*LTX A/T 2
...
Thx, my vehicle uses both bfg and michelin as oem, and i will evaluate the 2 versions further before i make my decision. Do you think it possible one or more of your tires is defective? Good luck.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:42 PM   #482
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Has anyone tried to hang anything on the walls? My f-I-law made us a custom wood key box and we would like to hang it next to the door to the left as you walk in. (in between door and dining slide) any thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:11 PM   #483
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Jimmie2, we had a the 12k E4. My tongue scale read 1300 lbs with the water empty. That's with full propane tanks, two batteries, and the front storage loaded to the gills including a heavy full metal tool box and a rolling floor jack. The changing to Michelin tires thing has me perplexed. What confuses me is how insensitive the E4 is to changes in your setup. With mine, I towed with conditions all over the board. Tanks full, tanks empty, and even with 2500# worth of ATV's and generators in the bed. Never made a change to my setup and never had even a hint of sway. That's why I'm so confused about how tires could cause this. If everything else is the same, I'm lost at an answer there. You're 12k setup should be more than fine. Starting from scratch on setup would be where I'd start. My neighbor who bought ours did just that as his tow vehicle was very different than mine. He is currently on his second weekend and no reports of sway issues.

iluvcamping, for your situation, I would really recommend setting it up yourself. For one, it's VERY simple. Hand tools, a tape measure, the directions, and about an hour is all you need. Dealer's are notorious for bad hitch setup and overcharge to boot. Unlike Reese, the Equalizer directions are very easy to follow and while you may be intimidated, I think you will find it much easier than you anticipate. Thanks for the compliment on my new rig too...
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:16 PM   #484
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Has anyone tried to hang anything on the walls? My f-I-law made us a custom wood key box and we would like to hang it next to the door to the left as you walk in. (in between door and dining slide) any thoughts or suggestions?
I'm betting that when it's centered, you won't find a stud. I would use butterfly anchors as it doesn't sound like what your hanging is very heavy. They can be found at any hardware store and look like this.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:42 AM   #485
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I'm betting that when it's centered, you won't find a stud. I would use butterfly anchors as it doesn't sound like what your hanging is very heavy. They can be found at any hardware store and look like this.
Don't try to use a toggle bolt the exterior wall a composite of decorative plywood, adhered to Styrofoam and aluminum studs and then more ply then the fiberglass skin. The toggles won't be able to open due to the foam. Use a coarse thread screw (dry wall type) and just snug it in, you may even get luck and hit a stud, then you'll have to pre-drill it. I did the same thing on my trailer and the key rack and coat hooks are solid.

BTW: I had to drill a 2.5" hole through the side of the trailer to install a Spray Port and could see firsthand he composite.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:23 AM   #486
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Don't try to use a toggle bolt the exterior wall a composite of decorative plywood, adhered to Styrofoam and aluminum studs and then more ply then the fiberglass skin. The toggles won't be able to open due to the foam. Use a coarse thread screw (dry wall type) and just snug it in, you may even get luck and hit a stud, then you'll have to pre-drill it. I did the same thing on my trailer and the key rack and coat hooks are solid.

BTW: I had to drill a 2.5" hole through the side of the trailer to install a Spray Port and could see firsthand he composite.
Yes, the foam can be a pest with what I recommended but with some wiggling the wings open. You just need a large enough hole to make it work which should not be an issue as you are mounting something large enough in front of it to cover it. A sheetrock screw will pull out very quickly from travel vibration as well as pressure from grabbing keys and putting them back.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:09 AM   #487
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Taken...thanks! We're going to buy ours at Etrailer....(local .com company) and my thinking is that if I have 'problems' I can always take it back and yell at them : ) ! You're also right...they want $69 @ hr but the rv dealer wants $110. I've read on this thread where some with sway issues after buying the Equalizer have had to do a lot of adjusting and I'm trying to get away from anything that has to do with 'sway'! Sounds like you think the E4 1200# hitch will do the job. I don't know if getting the next size up would help.
One reason why I think you didn't have any problems with sway is the size of your truck...you could pull a house ; )
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:20 AM   #488
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Taken...thanks for the info! We're thinking of buying ours at Etrailer....(local .com company) and my thinking is that if I have 'problems' I can always take it back and yell at them ! You're also right...they want $69 @ hr but the rv dealer wants $110. I've read on this thread where some with sway issues after buying the Equalizer have had to do a lot of adjusting and I'm trying to get away from anything that has to do with 'sway'. There was one comment here that said the bolts on the tongue side of the hitch kept coming loose. That would be an accident waiting to happen!
Do you think going to the E4 1400# would make any difference?
One reason why you never had sway problems is.....your truck! You could pull a house with it
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:54 AM   #489
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I went with the 1400 version after talking to Equalizer tech support and the fact that I'll have a pair of T-145 GC batteries. The extra weight of the batteries will likely get the tongue weight close to 1200 lbs. The 1400 also has thicker (stiffer) bars which should improve sway control.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:39 PM   #490
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Hi all, I'm sure this topic hasn't gone away yet.

Think we might have found a solution to the sagging bed problem. Originally we thought it was just a cheap mattress so we replaced it with a higher quality one. There was still a noticeable sag. So the hubby beefed up the "box spring" by weaving then stapling to the frame about 8 straps cut from old ratchet straps, kind of like the old lawn chairs.

Upon further inspection, we noticed that the 2x2 ledger board supporting the hinges of the box spring at the head of the bed, which is secured with screws from the top down onto the bed frame and also into the studs in the wall board, were not hitting any studs at all. In fact, we couldn't find any studs with a studfinder. The 2x2 was also severely warped and had pulled all 4 screws out of the wall.

To fix this, we replaced the 2x2 with a 2x6, with L cuts at each end for the same support on top of the bed frame. Again, no studs, so we toenailed into the two studs that we did find which support the bed frame. I'm not positive if this helped fix the bed sag, but any improvement or fix is good.

After a test overnight in the driveway, I think problem solved!
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