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Old 07-31-2014, 08:46 PM   #1093
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Question for all of you experts on this model! I purchased a Cougar 321 last year ('14 model). Everyone said that at some point I would leave a rear cabinet door openned and bind up the slider when openning. Well thanks to my daughters help with the slider we did it. Good news is the door didn't break off or crack before we realized. Bad news is the lower rear cable became lose when askew and popped out of the clip that it pulls on. I tried pulling it back and it is about 1/4" short of hooking back in.

Question: Any idea how to losen the cable so I can hook it back in to the bracket and then tighten it back up?

Thanks all for any input on this strange issue!!!
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:02 AM   #1094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tniles View Post
Question for all of you experts on this model! I purchased a Cougar 321 last year ('14 model). Everyone said that at some point I would leave a rear cabinet door openned and bind up the slider when openning. Well thanks to my daughters help with the slider we did it. Good news is the door didn't break off or crack before we realized. Bad news is the lower rear cable became lose when askew and popped out of the clip that it pulls on. I tried pulling it back and it is about 1/4" short of hooking back in.

Question: Any idea how to losen the cable so I can hook it back in to the bracket and then tighten it back up?

Thanks all for any input on this strange issue!!!
Fortunately and unfortunate, everything that has been in the way of the slides was simply crushed.. Fortunately, no trailer components.. TV remote, garbage can, etc.. now I always open the slide slightly, then check for things in the way..
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:34 AM   #1095
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water tank

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Here is a picture of the tank in the RV..
I circled a portion of it. In the lower part is the rear tank support, to the lower left is a piece of angle iron used to stop the left - right movement, on top of the rear tank support is an ice pick. The tank easily had 2 1/2 inches of vertical movement. On this corner of the tank, you can see where it was repaired.
To reduce the vertical movement (which damaged the tank), I am using hanger or plumbers tape from left to right across the front and rear. To protect the corners, I got a piece of UHMW, cut it into 15"x6" strips, then bolting this to the tape with 2 bolts away from the tank. You can bend this, however, it has not been easy. The two pieces for the aft strap are under weights in the garage and hopefully this will give them a little memory with the bend. I should have had the plastic company bend these for me, at least to 45 degrees. The front pads were very hard to get into place.
I did not want the tape tight as the tank does expand, in the front I now have about 1/2" vertical movement.
New member here & I would like to report that I may have similar issue with bad water tank on brand new 2014 HC. If so, that is pretty sad that keystone has not yet fixed this issue after others have reported water tank problems with earlier models. My problem starts with a return home from a 1300 mi. round trip a few days ago. While temporarily parked in front of house waiting to back up tt onto inclined driveway, I noticed water dripping near fresh water tank drain & also some coming from black underbelly seams. Big red flag! Too much water as pavement was completely dry & tank was 'supposedly' empty from previous nights attempt at using water pump for toilet. Then upon backing tt up inclined driveway, more water spilled out from front of tt. All told, probly 2 gallons. I removed about 5 underbelly screws near tank drain as ddrant suggested, and found all is wet on top of underbelly. Took tt for warrany work 2 days later & the bright service fellow suggested that since I drove thru heavy rains the night before, that some moisture is expected to get up under underbelly. I told him to get it inspected as too much water should not be trapped up in there. If anyone is interested, I will keep you posted as to results when we get the TT back in a few weeks. MY question is, is it unreasonable to expect dealer to remove & dry out entire underbelly since water poured out the front end of tt also while backing up driveway?
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:20 PM   #1096
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Originally Posted by mrski View Post
New member here & I would like to report that I may have similar issue with bad water tank on brand new 2014 HC. If so, that is pretty sad that keystone has not yet fixed this issue after others have reported water tank problems with earlier models. My problem starts with a return home from a 1300 mi. round trip a few days ago. While temporarily parked in front of house waiting to back up tt onto inclined driveway, I noticed water dripping near fresh water tank drain & also some coming from black underbelly seams. Big red flag! Too much water as pavement was completely dry & tank was 'supposedly' empty from previous nights attempt at using water pump for toilet. Then upon backing tt up inclined driveway, more water spilled out from front of tt. All told, probly 2 gallons. I removed about 5 underbelly screws near tank drain as ddrant suggested, and found all is wet on top of underbelly. Took tt for warrany work 2 days later & the bright service fellow suggested that since I drove thru heavy rains the night before, that some moisture is expected to get up under underbelly. I told him to get it inspected as too much water should not be trapped up in there. If anyone is interested, I will keep you posted as to results when we get the TT back in a few weeks. MY question is, is it unreasonable to expect dealer to remove & dry out entire underbelly since water poured out the front end of tt also while backing up driveway?
Heavy rain will collect water in the belly,.. Let is dry out fill the tanks and see what happens..
The belly will dry fine by itself.. If a leak is suspected, I would take it in and explain the issue while it is under warranty.. I would like to see their fix for this issue.. Next time, I'll buy an Arctic Fox! Make sure the water tank does not have vertical travel of over an inch after the fix.. This will keep it in the designed mount..
We used metal straps, Left to right (front and then rear), then another strap from the front to the rear of the tank. To protect the tank, used UHMW on the corners of the straps running from left to right (drivers side to passenger side)..
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:13 PM   #1097
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321 High Country

Can some one tell me how you went about winterizeing your 321.Don,t have a clue done it on a tt and mh befor but not my 321
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:45 PM   #1098
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Can some one tell me how you went about winterizeing your 321.Don,t have a clue done it on a tt and mh befor but not my 321
We just dump about 2-3 gallons of the RV anti-freeze in the fresh water tank and let it pump up through the system. Make sure you run it through your outside shower and pour some down all of your drains and let some sit in your toilet bowl. We also empty our hot water tank from the outside.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:38 PM   #1099
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A couple of small issues found while putting our trailer up for the year.
3 Cracks in the Air Condition shroud, from 3 screws. The outdoor shower box sealant had cracked and opened up which could start a delamination issue.. Ours is a 2011, a little older than most yet, areas to watch. The shroud should be repairable with the right epoxy..
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:39 PM   #1100
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Originally Posted by iluvcamping View Post
We just dump about 2-3 gallons of the RV anti-freeze in the fresh water tank and let it pump up through the system. Make sure you run it through your outside shower and pour some down all of your drains and let some sit in your toilet bowl. We also empty our hot water tank from the outside.
How do you clean the tank in the spring? Do you ever get the residual anti-freeze taste in the water? Curiosity here, as this is too simple..
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:13 PM   #1101
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Does everybody have plastic battery boxes? If so, have you found an easy way to remove the batteries? I tried an engine lift but could not get good clearance with the truck attached..
Thanks..
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:40 AM   #1102
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Has anyone installed house batteries physically larger and/or heavier than the stock Group 27 batteries by modifying their 321RES factory battery tray?
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:54 PM   #1103
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Has anyone installed house batteries physically larger and/or heavier than the stock Group 27 batteries by modifying their 321RES factory battery tray?
We use 2 6v golf cart batteries. There may be room for your idea, however, I would be concerned about the new tongue weight. I have heard from many we are pushing 1200 lbs stock. I need to check my tongue weight..
Thanks for the reminder..
Dan
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:17 PM   #1104
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Has anyone installed house batteries physically larger and/or heavier than the stock Group 27 batteries by modifying their 321RES factory battery tray?
We installed a pair of the large Trojan T-125 6V's in a polyethylene battery box. These weigh in at 66 lbs each. Chose these as they were better suited for our solar panels. I also installed a remote watering system that allows topping off the water without having to remove the LP bottles. Our tongue weight comes in at 1250 lbs with full LP tanks, ready to travel but, with empty water and holding tanks. 1250 lbs will take most factory hitches to or beyond their limit. We had a Reese Titan hitch installed which took care of any issues on our F-350.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:35 AM   #1105
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Smile

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We installed a pair of the large Trojan T-125 6V's in a polyethylene battery box. These weigh in at 66 lbs each. Chose these as they were better suited for our solar panels. I also installed a remote watering system that allows topping off the water without having to remove the LP bottles. Our tongue weight comes in at 1250 lbs with full LP tanks, ready to travel but, with empty water and holding tanks. 1250 lbs will take most factory hitches to or beyond their limit. We had a Reese Titan hitch installed which took care of any issues on our F-350.
Clayhammer and DGrant09,
Thanks for your replies. I'm a bit nervous going with 2 6V batteries in the event one fails, hence, I think I will go with 2 GC12 size batteries. Based on your replies, additional tongue weight aside, it doesn't sound like adding the larger batteries will over stress the factory battery brackets. As far as the tongue weight goes, I have a 3500 dually with Class V and a WDH, so I think I should still be good there. I appreciate knowing the tongue weight as I've wondered how much beyond it has pushed the 10% yardstick! I'm off to remove the angle steel battery stop on the passenger side of the battery bracket!

Thanks much for the info!
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:45 AM   #1106
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This can easily be checked. Forward of the rear stabilizer, remove about five screws holding the under cover on, on the driver side, then you should be able to reach in and push the tank upwards. If it travels about the braces, I would find a way to secure it. I stuck with the hanger tape, however, i had to run two more straps on the sides of the tank to keep the rear strap on. Now that I am done, I think I might have been better off using sheet metal..
DGrant09,
Thanks for the info regarding the tank. I explored my TT (built 10/2013) this weekend and it also does not have anything securing it from bouncing. I'll follow your advice in your previous post for making the mounting more tank friendly. With regards to preventing the tank from bouncing upward, I was thinking about spraying cans of expanding insulation foam at each top corner of the tank, thereby, filling the space between the tank and subflooring. Past experience seems to indicate the cured foam is pretty solid albeit it isn't closed cell so wicking/holding moisture may be a problem.

Comments welcome!

Thanks in advance....
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