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Old 05-18-2015, 11:11 PM   #1107
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Packed2Go,
I would be a little concerned with the expanding foam being compressed by the tank. When full, they are quite heavy. If I had any welding skills, it would have been an easy task. 2 uprights with a 3/8" rod 1/4" above the tank..
I was not concerned with your T.V., just the WDH.. Some 10k hitches only carry a 1k tongue weight. Others go up to 1.2k. We have a 1 ton truck (F350, 6.4L), our WDH has a tongue limit of 1.2k, I'd like a 1.4k.
Safe travels and happy camping..
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:19 PM   #1108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrant09 View Post
Packed2Go,
I would be a little concerned with the expanding foam being compressed by the tank. When full, they are quite heavy. If I had any welding skills, it would have been an easy task. 2 uprights with a 3/8" rod 1/4" above the tank..
I was not concerned with your T.V., just the WDH.. Some 10k hitches only carry a 1k tongue weight. Others go up to 1.2k. We have a 1 ton truck (F350, 6.4L), our WDH has a tongue limit of 1.2k, I'd like a 1.4k.
Safe travels and happy camping..
DGrant09,
Thanks for your reply. I decided to strap the tank down using 5/32" plastic coated wire rope with thin formed 90 degree angle mend reinforcing plates secured to the wire rope with zip ties . On the passenger side where the tank is closest to the outside frame, I used 2 each 5/16" X 4" eye bolts (each rated at 200lbs working) secured to the tank mounting, keeping the bolts as close to both the tank and outside frame as possible. On the driver side, where there is more room, I used 2 each 5 1/8" turnbuckles (each 180lbs static /120lbs motion). At each end of the two 7' wire ropes, I used a thimble and two 3/16" wire rope clamps. I secured the passenger sides first insuring none of the hardwire could contact the tank, then I crossed the wires so that the front passenger side went to the rear driver's side and vice versa. I then adjusted the wire rope on the drivers side to insure no tank contact with the hardware and then tightened the turnbuckle to insure only the slightest upward movement of the tank. I then secured each turnbuckle with a lock nut on the standard threaded hook end and used wire to prevent the reverse threaded eye from working loose. Time will tell how well this works but the tank isn't going anywhere anytime soon!

I have a Class V hitch with a 12K WDH so like you, it sounds like I will be close to maxing out the tongue weight. Now that I've fixed the potable tank issue, I will be leaving home with a full tank (mainly since most of our trips are 2-4 days at most and we have good water at home) so that will help somewhat. I ended up getting two GC12 Golf Cart wet batteries and have squeezed them in...just haven't been able to locate battery boxes for them.

Thanks again for all your suggestions etc....safe travels to you as well!
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:38 PM   #1109
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We need help from those of you that still own your 2012 High Country 321RES travel trailer.
The floor to ceiling rubber seal on the rear inside on the 'passenger' side of the rv slide out has pulled off from the slide going in and out. We just had the repair place tell us they have talked in length with Keystone about it and have come to the conclusion that there is no way to repair it. It is a bad design. The slide has 'moved' and is now tilted down just a very small bit that it is now somewhat lop-sided. It hasn't moved side to side ....just dropped in the back corner. The tech told us that is will not cause any water leakage but because it is slightly rubbing the side wall as the slide goes in and out the inside rubber piece will not go in the groove for it. Has anyone else noticed that the black rubber inside seal on your slide outs have torn or come out? Sorry if this post isn't clear.
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:15 AM   #1110
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Originally Posted by iluvcamping View Post
We need help from those of you that still own your 2012 High Country 321RES travel trailer.
The floor to ceiling rubber seal on the rear inside on the 'passenger' side of the rv slide out has pulled off from the slide going in and out. We just had the repair place tell us they have talked in length with Keystone about it and have come to the conclusion that there is no way to repair it. It is a bad design. The slide has 'moved' and is now tilted down just a very small bit that it is now somewhat lop-sided. It hasn't moved side to side ....just dropped in the back corner. The tech told us that is will not cause any water leakage but because it is slightly rubbing the side wall as the slide goes in and out the inside rubber piece will not go in the groove for it. Has anyone else noticed that the black rubber inside seal on your slide outs have torn or come out? Sorry if this post isn't clear.
Hi there Iluvcamping, been awhile..
We just returned from a 800 mile, 1 week trip and our forward, outside seal on the same slide had failed. I was able to buy one locally and install it quickly, however, there is a fit issue. The outside, forward area on our slide is not fitting correctly, as this seal sticks out beyond the edge of the slide when closed. I will probably call our shop on Monday about this. I also have my old seal and may re-install it just to check. I may have been given a slightly different seal. I'll be checking all seals when I open it up to clean it this weekend..
Please keep us up to date and thanks..
Dan
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:44 AM   #1111
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After 4-5 years of using this trailer we found another possible shortfall. The roof sealant, (dicor), for the area where the front cap meets the roof covering does not run the full width of the camper. On each side the dicor is about 18-24 inches short of the edge. This area on each side is sealed with what looks like silicone. Our shop recommends using dicor across the full width of the camper. When I get up on the roof for the repair, we'll take some pictures.
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:26 PM   #1112
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Slide Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcamping View Post
We need help from those of you that still own your 2012 High Country 321RES travel trailer.
The floor to ceiling rubber seal on the rear inside on the 'passenger' side of the rv slide out has pulled off from the slide going in and out. We just had the repair place tell us they have talked in length with Keystone about it and have come to the conclusion that there is no way to repair it. It is a bad design. The slide has 'moved' and is now tilted down just a very small bit that it is now somewhat lop-sided. It hasn't moved side to side ....just dropped in the back corner. The tech told us that is will not cause any water leakage but because it is slightly rubbing the side wall as the slide goes in and out the inside rubber piece will not go in the groove for it. Has anyone else noticed that the black rubber inside seal on your slide outs have torn or come out? Sorry if this post isn't clear.
Hi iluvcamping,

We have not had that problem yet. If you don't have it Accu Slide has their service manual on line it has an pretty extensive troubleshooting section that seems to address some of the issue you are having. Reading your description and the manual you should be able to adjust the cables or repair a bent bracket to get the slide back in place. Will be interested in your solution...good luck!

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Old 06-21-2015, 10:50 PM   #1113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrant09 View Post
After 4-5 years of using this trailer we found another possible shortfall. The roof sealant, (dicor), for the area where the front cap meets the roof covering does not run the full width of the camper. On each side the dicor is about 18-24 inches short of the edge. This area on each side is sealed with what looks like silicone. Our shop recommends using dicor across the full width of the camper. When I get up on the roof for the repair, we'll take some pictures.
We hadn't noticed that about that seal on the roof that you are talking about but last year, just to be on the safe side, we had all of our cut outs on the roof re-caulked. We had noticed some water on the floor by the bathroom sink and determined that the water lines around the sink was not the problem so we took it in and it was coming from the skylight in the shower when it rained. Problem fixed but very expensive. The caulking the factory does on the roof leaved much to be desired.
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Old 06-21-2015, 11:03 PM   #1114
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. The crazy part of this slide-out tilt is Keystone saying there isn't any fix. They told the tech that the rollers can be adjusted under the slide.....he told them ours doesn't have rollers. Then they told him about a box (I think that's what he called it) that's could be under the slide but I forget what he called it. He said he could put a long metal shim to try to help but he wasn't sure it would stay and would be expensive. Really the drop is only about 1/2-3/4 inch and isn't noticeable except there isn't enough room to put that rubber strip in.......$60 down the drain. I've heard it isn't good to use the support that is sold for slide-outs but I think I may call the tech to see if he thinks that will keep it from getting worse. Our recliners sit there and with people sitting in them it isn't exactly light weight. With as much rain as we've been having in STL we're going to the storage lot to check to make sure he was right when he told us it should be ok ....no water inside. A while back I put on here that the oxidation on our front cap is terrible and that's after keeping it waxed. We still have that to work on. Oh the joys of rv ownership!
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #1115
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We haven't had any issues yet with the slides. However the front cap has faded. We have washed and waxed it every year. I called Keystone and was told you should wax it every 3 months. Unbelievable!!
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:10 PM   #1116
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pkemmerlin.......check out page 73 of this thread for a pic of our front cap problem. We're going to try something a guy a Camping World suggested and that was to get a good oxidation remover from a car paint store and a high speed buffer and then wax it. He said that we might have to do it over and over to get any of the shine back. We think the gel coating or clear coat Keystone used on ours wasn't any good. It doesn't do any good to contact Keystone. They only care until the warranty is up. They don't even offer any suggestions......about anything!
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:11 PM   #1117
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Thanks for passing the suggestion along Iluvcamping..
Dan
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:32 AM   #1118
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My front cap faded with in a year, i had them repaint it with AUTOMOTIVE paint. Been shinny ever since
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:41 PM   #1119
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Who still has their 321 res

We just traded our 2011 KZ Spree for a 2013 Cougar High Country. One trip out so far and loving it. Interested in how its held up for everyone and if there are things we should be watching out for. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:00 AM   #1120
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We just traded our 2011 KZ Spree for a 2013 Cougar High Country. One trip out so far and loving it. Interested in how its held up for everyone and if there are things we should be watching out for. Thanks in advance.
Hi, We have had ours since 2011, new, and I'll try to list the items.
Front cap - keep it waxed - they fade quickly.
Bed frame pulled out of the wall.
Several slide cables frayed, watch the alignment with these.
Pad the rocking chairs, then tie them down, the fabric can wear quickly against the straps.
Check the table clearance with the large slide in. The tables were installed too far in and can rub on the kitchen counter.
That's all I can think of for now.
We have loved ours and hope the same for you and yours.
If you have any issues, let us know, we may have crossed that bridge and have a fix.
Dan
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