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06-09-2015, 07:53 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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A 100 amp converter needs at least 330 amp hours (C/20) of batteries.. that would be 2-pair GC-2 batteries.
I think the biggest error many make with batteries (And it took me many years to learn this myself) Is thinking batteries last a long time..
When in fact it is a mathmatics game (My major too so really need to kick myself on this) A pair of GC-2 has 210-250 amp hours depending on the specific sub model.. and 210 to 220 is most common..intersteate U-2200 is 220.
That's 110 amp hours (At C/20) of usable power
or roughly 5 amps constant draw (bit less over 24 hours)
You said the batteries lasted 1 day.. how much draw?
My Dometic Fridge manual does not list the DC draw but the fuse is 3 amps so the assumption is 1.5 amps.. Opening the door adds at least an amp.
Most RV light fixtures are either 16 watt Florcesnet, about 2 amps with convrsion loss or dual about 1.5 amps each or 3 amps total.
See how swiftly the amp hours add up? the fridge, one dual fixture and the propane detector and you have that 5 amps.
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Home is where I park it!
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06-09-2015, 10:33 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Henderson NV
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcham
What caused you to replace the batteries? At any time during your trip did you check the battery voltage? You should have 13.8V to 14.5V while charging, 12.6 to 12.7V at rest with no load and between 11.5 and 12.7V while discharging. Ideally you never discharge below 12V (resting voltage). If the charger is working, then you have a large load on the battery.
You didn't pull the brake emergency disconnect while you camped by any chance?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
A 100 amp converter needs at least 330 amp hours (C/20) of batteries.. that would be 2-pair GC-2 batteries.
I think the biggest error many make with batteries (And it took me many years to learn this myself) Is thinking batteries last a long time..
When in fact it is a mathmatics game (My major too so really need to kick myself on this) A pair of GC-2 has 210-250 amp hours depending on the specific sub model.. and 210 to 220 is most common..intersteate U-2200 is 220.
That's 110 amp hours (At C/20) of usable power
or roughly 5 amps constant draw (bit less over 24 hours)
You said the batteries lasted 1 day.. how much draw?
My Dometic Fridge manual does not list the DC draw but the fuse is 3 amps so the assumption is 1.5 amps.. Opening the door adds at least an amp.
Most RV light fixtures are either 16 watt Florcesnet, about 2 amps with convrsion loss or dual about 1.5 amps each or 3 amps total.
See how swiftly the amp hours add up? the fridge, one dual fixture and the propane detector and you have that 5 amps.
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The coach new comes with a 100a converter and the battery tray is only built for 2 batteries. I do not understand the electrical system at all. I have asked for a voltage meter to be installed so I can see what is happening.
The entire coach has been swapped with LED in every fixture possible. There must be like 30 or so LED bulbs in the 5th wheel so I know that the amp draw is minimal on those.
I am going down to speak with the service guy about 2 on Wednesday to discuss. As of now, I have no idea how many volts are running through the system besides my 4 different lights on my panel.
__________________
2011 Keystone Fuzion 405
2015 Ram 3500 DRW HO Diesel, Aisin Tranny 4.10
Wife 2 sons 8 & 12 Duke, Rosco, Rocky and Princess
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06-09-2015, 11:01 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
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Good call on checking the E-break cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcham
Well, at least now we know what drained the batteries. Let the RV shop know and they will inspect the brake wiring. It's not particularly heavy duty and some of the wire insulation could have melted... Learn and move on!
Your battery wiring sounds fine the way you describe it.
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We went through this exact same scenario and frustrations a few years ago. Nice to know it wasn't anything serious but also scary that the wires got so hot!
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06-10-2015, 01:15 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 166
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Does your fridge have a climate control switch? It controls a heater strip to prevent condensation around the doors. It will drain your battery if you run it when you dry camp.
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2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
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06-10-2015, 06:38 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Forgot that one.. Both Climate control and LAT eat more battery.
I would add a 2nd pair of GC-2s to your coach
The folks who yammer about "Old/New" battery mix being bad are correct if looking at a single PAIR of six volt batteries in series.
You should think of each pair as a single 12 volt battery
However when it comes to paralling two 12 volt batteries (or 2 pair of sixes) the 12 volt batteries need not be identical..You can put an older with a newer or an older pair of sixes with a new pair.
You should not have a problem.
This will MORE THAN Double your run time (Long story but the slower the discharge the longer^2 they last)
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Home is where I park it!
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06-12-2015, 11:46 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Henderson NV
Posts: 14
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Well I picked up the trailer from the shop and all is good. I asked for a volt meter to put in but they didnt have one handy. SO I will look for other options to test the battery levels.
As we were walking outside to look at something else, my service guy looks at me and says, "you have a triple axle?". Yep, he then laughed and said, "Your batteries didnt have a chance to charge." Issue fixed, stupid me.... oh well, lesson learned.
On another note, I do have that sensor thing but there is not a switch to turn it off. I pulled off the front panel, nothing. Looked on the side for one, nothing. I am a little worried though about snipping wires.
__________________
2011 Keystone Fuzion 405
2015 Ram 3500 DRW HO Diesel, Aisin Tranny 4.10
Wife 2 sons 8 & 12 Duke, Rosco, Rocky and Princess
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06-12-2015, 11:49 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Henderson NV
Posts: 14
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__________________
2011 Keystone Fuzion 405
2015 Ram 3500 DRW HO Diesel, Aisin Tranny 4.10
Wife 2 sons 8 & 12 Duke, Rosco, Rocky and Princess
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06-12-2015, 11:54 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasRam3500
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That is the temperature adjustment for the fridge, you don't want to snip those wires!
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
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06-13-2015, 12:06 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasRam3500
On another note, I do have that sensor thing but there is not a switch to turn it off. I pulled off the front panel, nothing. Looked on the side for one, nothing. I am a little worried though about snipping wires.
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The switch for mine is just a little rocker switch on the top inside edge of the freezer door frame.
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
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06-13-2015, 02:36 AM
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#24
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Input your year TT and MFG in the search block for cabling of batteries and use your converter if you have electric power from a house 110-120 outlet.
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06-17-2015, 04:26 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 596
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For the voltmeter, there's lots of options, doesn't have to be complicated.
http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Ligh...plug+voltmeter
As for learning about batteries and 12v systems, there's a website post called "the 12v side of life" which will cover the basics.
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