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Old 09-21-2022, 03:25 PM   #1
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delcirose's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 235
2004 40DS03 rotted wet bay flooring

I am in the process of removing my fresh water tank so that I can replaced the rotted out flooring underneath. In the process of removing the low point drains I managed to catch the corner of my tank where the low point drain connects on fire melting the corner of the tank. First question, has anyone every had to remove their fresh water tank and had it repaired? Second question, I have everything removed from this tank and when I try to slide it out on the passenger side the tank is hitting the black and grey tanks suspended above it on the water bay side, it wedges in there and does not want to come out!. This tank is tapered from one side to the other with it being fatter on the passenger side than it is on the driver side. Due to all of the solid PVC connections on the grey and black tanks they will not raise up in the bracket holding them in place. What have others done to get their fresh water tank out of there...Frustrated on my end and sick over having damaged my tank! Thanks for any help from the TS family that has removed their damaged flooring and tank!Click image for larger version

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Tom & Margie
2004 TS 40DSO3
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Old 09-22-2022, 08:25 AM   #2
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Location: Lake OZ,MO summer-RiverBend Motorcoach Resort,FL winter
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I had to do this job on my '06 TS Insignia. The fresh tank came out very easy. Be sure to remove all lines from it including the 2 overflow lines on the pass. side. If you must remove some of the drain lines preventing the tank from sliding out the pass. side, that is no biggie, just replace using rubber couplings and or elbows as needed.
If the tank is damaged, the part numbers to replace are usually hand written on the top of tank and the mfg. is embossed, labeled, or stamped on it.
To repair a tank you need a plastic welder, knowledge to use, identify the type of plastic for use of proper welding rod. There are also some very good hot melt glues (Hot Stick Adhesives, LLC. HS-376 UltraBonder), Flexable Epoxies, and even fiberglass can be used with proper knowledge of each and their limitations.
I have done the welding and used Hot Stick glue and either would be best choice depending on location and size of damage not to mention the stress factor in the damaged area.
Goggle "rv tank repair" for more choices and insight.
As for replacing the floor, I used 1" polyboard or starboard. Polyboard is cheaper than starboard and is easy to find at farm stores as it is used in horse stalls, etc. Two layers of 1/2" poly works fine screw together using truss head screws in the areas not under tank or counter sink under tank.
Either will require addition of bracing underneath, which can be done easily with angle iron...welding is not required.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:14 PM   #3
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Thank you for taking the time to head me in the right direction . I will check out the availability of the non/rotting type board to replace the plywood with . HDPE has also been mentioned as a panel to replace the plywood..I will check with some of the plastic companies in my area once i get the tank out to see if they can cut that little bit of the corner off and seal it up . Might be my best bet. I am also pretty convinced that due to the gray and black tanks not giving me the clearance to drag the fresh water tank out that I will need to cut pvc going to them so that i can raise them up a bit to get the tank out . Wish they had given me just a little more room to do this, others have not run into this same problem from what i can deduce...Just my luck!
Tom & Margie
2004 TS 40DSO3
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floor, flooring

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