Last year, I bought a new Dometic Penguin II 651816HXX1J0-M to replace a 15K DuoTherm Heat Pump. I used the Dometic 3313107.107 5 BUTTON THERMOSTAT HEAT PUMP CONVERSION KIT to 'dumb down' the unit so it worked with the 5-button as otherwise, I would have had to buy a new controller for the old unit (if there was one) or replace it, AND also buy the CCC 2 12-button thermostat. That conversion went fine, and we got another year before the rear DuoTherm (same age as the other) refused to even come on. Turned out Camping World in Robertsdale, AL, (about 69mi away) had both the Penguin II Heat Pump 651816HXX1C0-01 (white) and Comfort Climate Control II (CCC2) 3314082.000 (black) in stock. Only issue was, how to 'un-mod' the Penguin II from last year back to OEM so it would work with the CCC2. I still had the 5 Button Thermostat Conversion Kit instructions, and had saved the board and original heat sensor. Still, there are some nuances to doing that in reverse. So...for those who are faced with this, here's how to do it. NOTE: I had a brand new Penguin II unit as a reference, and I used the wiring on it to check my work. If you are doing this 'un-mod' then likely you, too, have one to use. Highly recommend this as a check.
Tools and hardware required:
1) Wire stripper & crimping tool
2) Three flat female "Flag" connectors (crimp-on; 16-18ga) to replace the ones you removed
3) Wire Cutter
4) Square drive or Phillips Screw driver (to remove the shroud)
5) 5/16 Nut Driver (or socket) to remove the electrical cover and temp sensor screw
6) Needle-nose pliers
7) Flat-blade screwdriver (small)
My steps to remove the conversion board:
1) Shut down power to the AC (the manual advises shutting off both DC and AC power)
2) Remove the cover and set aside
3) Remove the access cover to the control board
4) Discharge the capacitor with a capacitor discharge tool (recommended since you will be handling the wire off of the main capacitor). In my case, the cap had no charge on it when I checked, so I didn't have to do this.
5) Find the yellow (medium speed) motor wire you capped for the conversion, and the violet (or black) reversing valve wire and thick white wire (from the capacitor; make sure it's discharged) you butt-spliced together. Remove the cap and butt splice. See Picture
6) Put a flag wire connector back on each of these wires, ensuring you crimp the connectors securely. See Picture
7) Disconnect the three wires (flat connectors) from the top of the board (red and black fan wires; and either purple or black reversing valve wire)
8) Remove the thick blue wire and thick black wire from the left and right "K6" terminals on the black relay on the right side near the top of the board
9) Remove the 6-pin connector from the P6 port just below the K6 module
10) Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the standoff posts and slide the board off of each. Work one at a time, starting at the top. There are two top; two bottom (hardest to reach). You might need to use a flat-blade to push the standoff post catches 'in' so the board slides out. This was the hardest part...not damaging the standoffs
11) Once free, remove the remaining connections, one of which is the temp sensor, along with the CAN-bus RJ-11 (telephone plugs) from the bottom.
12) Remove the temp sensor from where you mounted it on the unit and save that screw
13) Note the positions of the DIP switches; make the DIP switches on your original (new) board match these positions
To re-install the original 'new' controller board:
1) Feed the temp sensor through the hole on the left side of the controller mounting area and secure it to the exterior frame with the screw removed from the conversion sensor. Ensure you put the plastic bushing back over the wire and into the hole to prevent fraying of the wires. You can use a rubber grommet or other wire protection if you've lost this. See Picture
2) Connect the CAN-Bus connectors (telephone plugs) to the two ports on the bottom. It doesn't matter which one goes where
3) Connect the temp sensor and other wire connectors to the connections on the bottom. They all only fit on one connector. Note, you removed some of the wire cover for the conversion. You can re-wrap that wire with tape, though I didn't find this necessary. See picture
4) With the bottom connections made, carefully place the board back into the control area and push it onto the four PC board standoffs. Make sure they latch and hold the board securely as this area vibrates; if a standoff is loose/broken, replace it. See picture for locations
5) Connect the two reversing valve wires to the board (violet or black; one has a new flag connector you installed). One is on the right side edge, the top of two spade connections in the "T6" box. The other is up and left from this and almost between the two black relay plastic boxes and is labeled "REV-VAL" below the connector.
6) Connect the thick white wire from the capacitor (with new flag connector) to the bottom "T6" box spade lug below where you connected the reversing valve wire. See pictures for these and the reversing valves.
7) Connect the thick black wire to the left side of the "H" relay module on the upper right side
8) Connect the thick blue wire to the right-side connector on the "H" module
9) Connect the three motor wires as labeled on the board to the spade connectors near the top: Red to "FAN LO"; Yellow to "FAN MED"; and thin black to "FAN HI" which is at the top left corner. See previous picture.
10) Check all connections and double-check the DIP switches are set correctly. NOTE: there is no connection to the center black module, bottom spade lug.
11) Ensure all wires are routed so as not to rub/bind, and reinstall the cover over the module.
You now should have an OEM Penguin II (again) ready to connect directly to your CCC 2 thermostat.
ALSO NOTE: I confirmed this with Dometic, and it matches the wiring diagrams from all their manuals. If (like me) you happened to have a 3106515.012 (or similar) control box inside the inlet of your AC, you DO NOT need this for any reason. In fact, it represents another place for 'noise' or errors to get onto the CAN-bus. Simply route your CAN-bus connection directly to your unit via either of the RJ-11 phone connectors, then use the other connector to feed the CAN-bus signal to the wire leading to your other units. The Penguin IIs have built in controllers and do not need this control box. There will be a thin, two-wire connector inside that leads to your zone temp sensor, and two blue wires that connect to the AquaHot system that tell the AquaHot to provide heat (or not) to that zone. These are enabled when you select "Furnace" on the DIP switches. An external controller is not needed.
Hope this helps.