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learn2coach · 05-11-2021, 04:24 PM

I have a 2004 38DS04 with a GE microwave/convection. The microwave is not working and I would to get a replacement unit. The unit is mounted with 2 - 16" long bolts which pass from the bottom through to top and attach to a mounting plate above the microwave. The bolts pass through the front corners of the microwave via 2 aftermarket (probably dealership) drilled holes in the microwave body. There is also a mounting bracket on the rear wall which is not a problem replacing. Wondering if anyone out there has replaced their similarly mounted microwave, if you drilled the same holes in the new one, what make/model of microwave you replaced it with, etc. Or if you found another way to mount another microwave? Many thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.

Craig1960 · 05-11-2021, 06:26 PM

I had the same set up and replaced it without using the long screws again. I did use the mount on the back. I can't remember exactly but I think there was a couple holes in the top of the microwave that I was able to use as well.
I will try to have a look at it for you tomorrow to see what I did.

Airboss68 · 05-12-2021, 05:56 AM

I had the same setup in my TS when the microwave crapped the bed.
Replaced it with a new GE but couldn't use the long bolts as there were components inside the microwave in the way.

Replaced the rear bracket with the one that came with the new oven. Not a problem there just screwed it in.

Had to drill 2 holes in the slide roof to bolt from the top. Put a 6"X40" 1/8" thick plate of aluminum on the roof to bolt through. Sealed it well and used running thread for bolts with low profile nuts.

Make sure when you buy a new microwave that the door hinges the same way as the old one and doesn't bind on your cabinet walls when opening.

learn2coach · 05-12-2021, 08:53 AM

Thank you Craig1960 for your response. Any further info would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you Airboss68. Did you drill oversize holes in the slide ceiling, say 1 "++ in order to hit the receiving holes in the top of the microwave, then seal the aluminum plate well to prevent leaks? It would seem very challenging to get them exact enough to match up.

tap4154 · 05-12-2021, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airboss68

I had the same setup in my TS when the microwave crapped the bed.
Replaced it with a new GE but couldn't use the long bolts as there were components inside the microwave in the way.

Replaced the rear bracket with the one that came with the new oven. Not a problem there just screwed it in.

Had to drill 2 holes in the slide roof to bolt from the top. Put a 6"X40" 1/8" thick plate of aluminum on the roof to bolt through. Sealed it well and used running thread for bolts with low profile nuts.

Make sure when you buy a new microwave that the door hinges the same way as the old one and doesn't bind on your cabinet walls when opening.

That last sentence is a great point. I install kitchen appliances all the time, and some of the microwaves, when you open them the door will move over to the left, and if it's up against a sidewall it's going to hit. There are certain models that do not do this, and you almost have to go into the store and check it out.

I'm also curious if the OP actually uses the convection portion of the microwave, because you could just get a standard over the range microwave and they're much cheaper, and much lighter in weight. I've installed thousands of over the range microwaves over my working career, and very few were convection. Personally I would get a regular microwave, and if you want something convection, just get a stand alone air fryer.

Airboss68 · 05-12-2021, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Did you drill oversize holes in the slide ceiling, say 1 "++ in order to hit the receiving holes in the top of the microwave, then seal the aluminum plate well to prevent leaks? It would seem very challenging to get them exact enough to match up.

Drilled 1/2" holes for 1/4" bolts in the roof, 1/4" holes in the plate.

Your new microwave will come with a template to tape to the ceiling with the holes marked for drilling.

Yep sealed the crap out of the plate and the bolts.

Craig1960 · 05-12-2021, 03:58 PM

So I had a look and remembered what I did. The microwave actually came with a new bracket for the back with a template for mounting it to the wall. It then tilts down so that you can attach it to the back of the microwave. It also came with a template for the top like Airboss's but I don't have access to the top of my cabinet. So I used a 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle that I screwed to the top of the microwave and the front of the cabinet. It's been that way down some rough roads and never moved so it works for me.

learn2coach · 05-13-2021, 07:41 AM

Thank you for that idea Craig1960. That just may work in my case. It would be so much easier if I could find a microwave that has vacant space to pass the bolts through to match the old mounting system. Unfortunately, the salespeople at the appliance outlets, the repair techs, or the GE helpline do not possess that knowledge and GE tells me to hire an installation tech to install it.

learn2coach · 05-13-2021, 07:58 AM

Thank you Tap4154 an you're right, Airboss68 does make a good point with the door opening clearance. I just measured it again and according to my measuring tape, I have 1/8" excess with the door opening. The other point you mention about the use of the convection: we are snowbirds and winter in Arizona and Mazatlan from November to April. We have no conventional gas oven, only the stovetop. The wife will often put a roast or a chicken in the convection a couple of hours before we stop and voila, dinner is done by the time I get parked and set up. We actually now prefer it to a conventional oven. Thanks again for everyone's help and here's to hoping we can travel again in 2021.

Airboss68 · 05-14-2021, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by learn2coach

Thank you for that idea Craig1960. That just may work in my case. It would be so much easier if I could find a microwave that has vacant space to pass the bolts through to match the old mounting system. Unfortunately, the salespeople at the appliance outlets, the repair techs, or the GE helpline do not possess that knowledge and GE tells me to hire an installation tech to install it.

If you replace it with a GE There WILL be internal components in the way of using the long bolts.

If you are putting it in a Travel Supreme most likely your only option is through the slide roof.

learn2coach · 05-21-2021, 10:09 AM

Thank you all for your help. I have done hours of research and even more in store shopping to find the right convection microwave. I have finally found the best one for my application which is the Frigidaire model FGBM15WCVF. It is a 1.8 cu. ft. with a zero clearance door. I will mount it using the factory mount holes and do as Airboss68 did and drill down through the slide roof with an exterior supporting metal plate. This unit is also about 1" taller which means removing a very nice beveled mirror on the back wall and cutting it down 1" - if that is possible. Thanks again for everyone's help. Hopefully we will be back to travelling south this winter.

tap4154 · 05-21-2021, 10:33 AM

One option you could do is cut some plywood a little bit thicker than your mirror, and fill the area where the mounting plates going to go with that. Then just leave the mirror where it is, and let the bracket overhang an inch below the plywood. The microwave will still hook onto the bracket and once you get the upper bolts in securely that should hold everything fine. Just make sure the plywood is well secured to the wall, then mounting the plate is just a matter of driving in a bunch of screws. I do a similar thing when I pull down a microwave out of a house, and it's been tiled up to the bottom, or has a granite backsplash. I just shim out the wall and let the mounting plate overhang on the granite or tile. Just a suggestion.

learn2coach · 05-22-2021, 08:52 AM

Thank you Tap4154. That is a great idea and will work for sure. I think the mirror is about 3/16 - 1/4", so it would move the microwave forward by perhaps 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch - certainly doable. Then run the plywood all the way up the back and cut a hole for the vent and voila. Thank you. Easier and cheaper than messing with the mirror.

delcirose · 05-24-2021, 10:51 AM

It would be great if when you are finished installing this microwave that you could follow back with some pictures. Looking at a Lowes web site with this model number, it sure looks like the door when it swings open has to move to the outside of its cabinet. I would love another alternative to the sharp model that I have due to noise considerations? The fan runs on forever after using it for Convection Cooking...I loved my old GE, but sadly it died in the performance of its duties.