Restore fiberglass roof

[Old Steve]

I want to reach out to rv community and ask what you are using to restore your fiberglass roof. My roof is not bad but very oxidized and in need of something.
I have been using all the popular stuff such as 303, wax, cleaning with simple green then wax, etc.
I’m interested in your ideas and stuff you use including marine products. I’m not interested in how hard or easy it is to use just how good it is and how long it lasts.
What’s your secret?
Steve

[rag_ftw]

There are numerous different ideas that people swear work.

Always keep it clean to avoid streaking no matter what you use for a coating.

I used to apply mop-n-glo a couple times a year on my previous coach. Never had streaks. Not sure about UV protection and it did get slick when wet.

I now apply Dicor fiberglass roof coating once a year. No streaks, good UV protection, and when applied with a roller it creates a textured surface that is not overly slick when wet.

Dicor also has a good cleaner that is a prep for the roof coating. I always have someone on the ground with a hose to rinse the sides of the coach when I use this as it really gets all the gunk off the roof and will streak the sides if you don't get it off quickly.

Here is part of a good booklet for roof maintenance. To big to attach all of it!

[Old Steve]

Great information, thanks
Steve

[Old Steve]

Originally Posted by rag_ftw

There are numerous different ideas that people swear work.

Always keep it clean to avoid streaking no matter what you use for a coating.

I used to apply mop-n-glo a couple times a year on my previous coach. Never had streaks. Not sure about UV protection and it did get slick when wet.

I now apply Dicor fiberglass roof coating once a year. No streaks, good UV protection, and when applied with a roller it creates a textured surface that is not overly slick when wet.

Dicor also has a good cleaner that is a prep for the roof coating. I always have someone on the ground with a hose to rinse the sides of the coach when I use this as it really gets all the gunk off the roof and will streak the sides if you don't get it off quickly.

Here is part of a good booklet for roof maintenance. To big to attach all of it!

Do you clean and coat the lap sealant when doing roof ?
Steve

[rag_ftw]

Originally Posted by Old Steve

Do you clean and coat the lap sealant when doing roof ?
Steve

Yes, I use mineral spirits to clean the lap sealant and then a mix of 50/50 alcohol and water to remove any mineral spirit residue. Run a length of painters blue tape to create a straight line that is not visible from the ground. This should include the lap sealant.

I have installed EternaBond tape on all my seams now and and coat the inside edge to create a seal over the edge of the tape. Not sure how long the EtenaBond will last but I know it is longer than lap sealant. I have had it on my end caps now for 5 years and it is still as good as new.

[Old Steve]

Thanks for your ideas, I like them. As soon as the weather cools a little I’m going to work (I’m in calif)

[2 Stroker]

My roof was chalking and white streaks running down the side, it was time to do the fix. It took me 3 days, but turned out great.
Surface Preparation:
Determine if you need to remove any of items on the roof; ACs, solar panels, etc. Normally this should not be needed given those areas receive literally no sun damage. A thorough cleaning with a pressure washer should suffice. Inspect the condition of the Dicor sealant used to seal around the roof items. If there are significant cracks you should consider adding another coat of self-leveling Dicor to these areas. Pressure wash the roof with Simple Green to remove the dirt. When dry, lightly scrub the roof with 3M Red Scotchbrite scuff pads. These are available on Amazon, auto paint stores, and some home improvement stores. This will slightly roughen the surface to promote better paint adhesion. Next wash the roof with an automotive wax and tar/grease cleaning solvent available at Walmart, Home Depot, etc. Use plenty of rags. Keep exchanging for a new cloth surface as you wipe areas of the roof down. The intent is to remove surface waxes or oils so the paint will have adequate adhesion. Once the roof is dry, tape the edges where the roof joins the painted areas. Apply the masking tape (2” recommended) so a slight amount of the painted surface is visible. This will enable the roof paint to “seal” the edge of the RV paint’s clear coat and help prevent it from peeling. Also consider taping off roof items like the ACs to protect them from possible over-paint.
The complete prep takes 3-4 hours.
Application:
Apply the paint using 6” rollers available from any paint/home improvement store. Smaller diameter rollers work better around the air conditioner edges and other obstacles. Painting the Dicor sealant around the various roof structures will protect it from UV effects. Use a brush when necessary to cover the Dicor and to get under the edges of structures like ACs and solar panels. The paint is oil based so allow it to dry overnight before applying a second coat. The first coat will appear somewhat rough but the second coat will dry smooth. For added protection you may apply a 3rd coat but 2 coats will normally provide the needed protection and durability.
Ordered from Amazon
4 qt Rust-Oleum 206999 Marine Topside Paint, White Gloss $16.78
5 Red 3M Scuff Pads Scotch Brite 3M Brand $10.36

Kleanstrip Prep-All Wax & Grease Remover, Gallon (KLE-GSW362) $25.20

2 stroker

[1doodadd]

I did mine because it too was streaking the sides of the coach. I used simple green diluted with water to clean. Then used 3M red pads to scuff it to prepare for the paint. Then I used Rustoleum Marine Topside gloss white 2 coats. Came out great but it was a lot of work but worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-20...-2&tag=mh0b-20

[JimGraley]

I am a retired automobile painter with forty years of experience of painting vehicles. I think you covered the process pretty well, but with one exception in my humble opinion. The wax and grease removal should be done before sanding, not after. The reasoning behind the wax removal before sanding is that the wax will be "sanded" into the surface if not removed first. Not trying to open a can of worms. Just the way it is done in the auto paint world. Otherwise you can get "fisheyes" in the finish.

[Old Steve]

Originally Posted by JimGraley

I am a retired automobile painter with forty years of experience of painting vehicles. I think you covered the process pretty well, but with one exception in my humble opinion. The wax and grease removal should be done before sanding, not after. The reasoning behind the wax removal before sanding is that the wax will be "sanded" into the surface if not removed first. Not trying to open a can of worms. Just the way it is done in the auto paint world. Otherwise you can get "fisheyes" in the finish.

Ok. Looks like paintings the way to go. Any idea how long it should last before you have to paint again?
Steve

[bpu699]

Paint eventually peels... then you have a mess. Rustoleum is not a quality automotive paint...

Why not buy a real 2 part car paint and use that?

Or, why not just wax every year with a roller? Wouldn’t NuFinish do the job?

[rag_ftw]

See #2. Have been using this annually on my roof since 2013 with no adverse results.

Have not tried the Rustoleum products so I have nothing to compare.

Maybe Mr. Graley will share a little more of his experience with us!

[Brianna]

My roof is 20 years old.
The surface was intact but the thin gelcoat was heavily weathered/oxidized.
Rather than adding something temporary (and heavy) like dicor fiberglass roof coating, I used Wet Edge primer and paint from total boat. It's a one-part polyurethane coating.

It leaves a strong, durable, UV resistant finish.

[Azee]

I redid our roof last fall and used the process as outlined above. I did the wax and degreaser after the first wash and before sanding with the Red Scotch Brite pads. I used Rust Oleum Top Side Marine paint. I was and remain very happy with the results. I would recommend that you consider using Simple Green Extreme, normal Simple Green is corrosive to Aluminum.

Where my roof is only coming up on a year old, I can't say for sure how long it will last. I have read that others have used the same method and they reported 8-10 years before having to put another coat of paint on. I put two coats on when I painted it and the paint doesn't cover real well.

IMHO it is a project that when completed you will be happy with. The results shown in the photos posted speak for themselves.