|
06-21-2020, 08:12 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Johnson Vermont
Posts: 179
|
Solar Panel Output
anyone know what the direct output is for small solar panel on roof mu fluke meter reads -20 dc
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
06-21-2020, 10:28 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,145
|
Those small roof mounted optional solar panels are 8 watts and 10 watts. Totally useless. The 20 volts is the open circuit voltage. After going through a Solar Controller, it's supplied to the batteries at ~14 volts. So using the wattage above, you could expect on a sunny day, 0.57 amps or 0.7 amps of charging. Totally worthless with today's big batteries in RVs.
The roof mounted small solar panels are basically a sales gimmick and virtually worthless. But the good news is that I have seen some manufacturers now days advertising a roof top solar panel as being optional and 100 watts. That's better...7.1 amps in full sun. That would do a lot to keep your Chassis battery charged while the RV is sitting during the off season.
You can check easily enough by reading the brochure for your model. That will list your solar panels wattage. And you can get a copy of that by googleing "brochure for Your brand and model".
|
|
|
06-21-2020, 01:30 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Johnson Vermont
Posts: 179
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek
Those small roof mounted optional solar panels are 8 watts and 10 watts. Totally useless. The 20 volts is the open circuit voltage. After going through a Solar Controller, it's supplied to the batteries at ~14 volts. So using the wattage above, you could expect on a sunny day, 0.57 amps or 0.7 amps of charging. Totally worthless with today's big batteries in RVs.
The roof mounted small solar panels are basically a sales gimmick and virtually worthless. But the good news is that I have seen some manufacturers now days advertising a roof top solar panel as being optional and 100 watts. That's better...7.1 amps in full sun. That would do a lot to keep your Chassis battery charged while the RV is sitting during the off season.
You can check easily enough by reading the brochure for your model. That will list your solar panels wattage. And you can get a copy of that by googleing "brochure for Your brand and model".
|
guess that explains why it was unplugged better option for long down time might be a battery tender thanks for your help
|
|
|
06-21-2020, 01:40 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,145
|
It's easiest to leave the RV plugged into shore power if you can...after verifying that you have a 'keep charged' circuit for the chassis batts. But if you can't, you can just disconnect the battery grounds from both sets or the grounds from the chassis batts and the middle jumper from the 6 volt set. I keep a wrench and a pair of gloves in the battery compartment just for that. That way the RV can sit for months and be ready to head out the morning after you plug back in to shore. OR, it'll start right up using the AUX switch on the dash and you can let the alternator top them off for you.
I see you're a senior member so you probably already know all this stuff but I'll leave it here for lurkers.
|
|
|
06-21-2020, 03:17 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 823
|
TS coaches with Magnum inverters should NOT have the negative battery cable removed first...it creates a risk of damage in your circuitry as the inverter searches for a ground elsewhere.
Remove positive first.
__________________
[COLOR="Blue"]Doug, Robyn, Ross & Ryan
06 Travel Supreme Select 45'
|
|
|
06-28-2020, 06:39 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: SD
Posts: 900
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Driver
TS coaches with Magnum inverters should NOT have the negative battery cable removed first...it creates a risk of damage in your circuitry as the inverter searches for a ground elsewhere.
Remove positive first.
|
It's tidbits of info like this that make cruising this forunmdaily a must.
__________________
2012 Dynamax Dynaquest 390 XL
|
|
|
06-28-2020, 07:37 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Johnson Vermont
Posts: 179
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airboss68
It's tidbits of info like this that make cruising this forunmdaily a must.
|
thanks for tip I always seen to do the wrong thing first
|
|
|
06-29-2020, 06:13 PM
|
#8
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 51
|
Solar panels
Has anyone tried upgrading the solar panels and leaving the factor controller ?
|
|
|
08-08-2020, 04:31 PM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 2
|
Sounds like a great Question
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|