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Old 09-07-2020, 03:03 PM   #1
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Won't start intermittently

Staying in Virginia on the way to Florida. Went to leave this morning and started (2003 41 select 500hp ism) up to raise no prob, shut down and brought sides in went to restart and nothing. Batteries (2 months old) 13.3v. Beat on starter, swapped ignition relays in front fuse box, loosened wires and cleaned on start solenoid next to starter and nothing, sat and researched then went back and it started??????? So figuring last thing touched was starter solenoid, got new one and replaced back to nothing. Then 5 min later starts up. It is currently 5 o'clock so you know what that means!!!!! Any thoughts??? Were staying another night and will start with this insanity again in the morn. *#!@&
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Old 09-07-2020, 05:23 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ferg00 View Post
Staying in Virginia on the way to Florida. Went to leave this morning and started (2003 41 select 500hp ism) up to raise no prob, shut down and brought sides in went to restart and nothing. Batteries (2 months old) 13.3v. Beat on starter, swapped ignition relays in front fuse box, loosened wires and cleaned on start solenoid next to starter and nothing, sat and researched then went back and it started??????? So figuring last thing touched was starter solenoid, got new one and replaced back to nothing. Then 5 min later starts up. It is currently 5 o'clock so you know what that means!!!!! Any thoughts??? Were staying another night and will start with this insanity again in the morn. *#!@&
Will be watching you as I've just replaced the starter and the relay now doing the Box relays and repairing soe wires - a piece of the Foil insulation fel lacross the relay and shorting it out and fried everything - may have to dive into the starter wire next.

Best of Luck,

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Old 09-07-2020, 06:11 PM   #3
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i swapped the relays in the box already, next checking some wires and the ignition
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Old 09-07-2020, 06:34 PM   #4
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There will be a solenoid between the batteries and the "S " terminal of the starter mounted solenoid. Its so the " S " terminal current doesn't run all the way to the front and back.

Loma like the old Ford starter solenoid. They hide it back there somewhere.
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:51 PM   #5
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There will be a solenoid between the batteries and the "S " terminal of the starter mounted solenoid. Its so the " S " terminal current doesn't run all the way to the front and back.

Loma like the old Ford starter solenoid. They hide it back there somewhere.
Would this be in the battery compartment? Or what it looks like?
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Old 09-07-2020, 08:07 PM   #6
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Would this be in the battery compartment? Or what it looks like?
Pretty sure you need to go inside and lift the access door and it should be on the back of the battery box. Outside the box but only access is from inside
I think ✅
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Old 09-08-2020, 04:15 AM   #7
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Begin checking at the starter relay.

You'll need someone to hold the ignition switch in the start position while you check for power at the large starter relay that's mounted on sheet metal on the passenger side of the engine. You can access it most easily from the engine hatch in the bedroom in front of the closet.

A quick test of the starter circuits and relays is to simply jump between the two large lugs on the starter solenoid. If the starter operates when this is done, further testing is needed.

Use a test light or voltmeter to check for power at the starter relay's large lugs. One lug will be hot constantly (feed side). The other side goes to the starter.

Both sides should have power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

If the starter doesn't operate and the feed side of the relay shows a significant voltage drop (test light very dim or goes out) check for bad chassis battery/batteries or poor connections between the cable running directly from the chassis batteries to the starter.

If both the feed and starter sides have power when trying to start and the starter doesn't operate, the problem is in the either the starter or the wiring going directly to the starter.

If the starter side of the relay does not get power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position, use your test light or voltmeter to check the two small posts on the starter relay. One goes to ground, the other should become hot when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

If the small post has power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position but big lug going to the starter does not, the starter solenoid is defective.

If the small post on the starter solenoid does not get power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position there's one more relay to test.

The ignition switch does not feed the starter relay directly because of the long runs of wiring. i.e. Chassis battery to ignition switch, then back to the starter solenoid is about eighty feet of wire could create excessive voltage drop.

In the engine compartment you'll see a small relay and fuse holder mounted on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. The box is mounted vertically on the engine compartment bulkhead toward the front of the coach forward of the starter solenoid. you can see it looking into the engine compartment from the back.

This box contains a number of relays. One is the feed for the starter solenoid.

I know this is long winded but I'm trying to make the steps clear for someone not completely familiar with the testing steps. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 09-08-2020, 05:43 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Begin checking at the starter relay.

You'll need someone to hold the ignition switch in the start position while you check for power at the large starter relay that's mounted on sheet metal on the passenger side of the engine. You can access it most easily from the engine hatch in the bedroom in front of the closet.

This is the Relay in the rear of the Coach that feeds the Solenoid - Correct

A quick test of the starter circuits and relays is to simply jump between the two large lugs on the starter solenoid. If the starter operates when this is done, further testing is needed.

Use a test light or voltmeter to check for power at the starter relay's large lugs. One lug will be hot constantly (feed side). The other side goes to the starter.

Both sides should have power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

If the starter doesn't operate and the feed side of the relay shows a significant voltage drop (test light very dim or goes out) check for bad chassis battery/batteries or poor connections between the cable running directly from the chassis batteries to the starter.

If both the feed and starter sides have power when trying to start and the starter doesn't operate, the problem is in the either the starter or the wiring going directly to the starter.

If the starter side of the relay does not get power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position, use your test light or voltmeter to check the two small posts on the starter relay. One goes to ground, the other should become hot when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

If the small post has power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position but big lug going to the starter does not, the starter solenoid is defective.

If the small post on the starter solenoid does not get power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position there's one more relay to test.

The ignition switch does not feed the starter relay directly because of the long runs of wiring. i.e. Chassis battery to ignition switch, then back to the starter solenoid is about eighty feet of wire could create excessive voltage drop.

In the engine compartment you'll see a small relay and fuse holder mounted on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. The box is mounted vertically on the engine compartment bulkhead toward the front of the coach forward of the starter solenoid. you can see it looking into the engine compartment from the back.

Help Here with this Relay - might just be I need to Look harder - but a not sure what/where exactly, I'm looking for here - What's it Look Like?

This box contains a number of relays. One is the feed for the starter solenoid.

Is this the small wire or the heavy wire?

I know this is long winded but I'm trying to make the steps clear for someone not completely familiar with the testing steps. Hope this is helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this in Simple Steps - Amazing how much you can forget if you are not in the Shop every Day for twenty Years

I'm not the original poster - my starter blew when a piece of foil from the insulation fell across the relay engaging the stater for 30+ minutes and burning everything up - I have replaced the starter and the relay - will replace the relays for the Switch that are located in the front fuse box b y the tire - also had on set of 18 gauge wires melt the insulation and have replaced them -

When I rehook the batteries - fully charged - and turn the switch I get nothing - no dash no starter -

TIA,

Bill

THANK YOU!
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Old 09-08-2020, 06:44 AM   #9
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Tested all three relays
In The fuse box in the front all are good - will run out to get a remote starter as that may answer more questions once I dive into this again.

Still searching for the small relay??
Thanks

Bill
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:24 AM   #10
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You may want to check continuity on the master chassis/engine disconnect switch in the engine compartment, normally to the passenger side near the diagnostic interface.
Rotate it off/on a few times, could have corrosion on contacts.
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:32 AM   #11
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No power at all

If nothing is switching on with the ignition switch, pull out the chassis battery tray. You will find an in line fuse holder on a 10-12 gauge wire coming off the positive terminals. Good chance that blew out.

If I recall it's a Buss large size 30 amp fuse.
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Old 09-08-2020, 08:36 AM   #12
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If nothing is switching on with the ignition switch, pull out the chassis battery tray. You will find an in line fuse holder on a 10-12 gauge wire coming off the positive terminals. Good chance that blew out.

If I recall it's a Buss large size 30 amp fuse.
Checked that very early on - Good.
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Old 09-08-2020, 08:40 AM   #13
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You may want to check continuity on the master chassis/engine disconnect switch in the engine compartment, normally to the passenger side near the diagnostic interface.
Rotate it off/on a few times, could have corrosion on contacts.
Will check it but it never worked - looked in the connected position and has never worked - I have always been hooked to 120 so never have had a need to use it.

But I'll check it,

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 09-08-2020, 09:08 AM   #14
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This is the switch I was referring to.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1599577622


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