2014 Anthem overhead cabinet access panel?

[NowGo]

I am trying to determine if there is an access panel in the overhead TV/cabinet wiring cavity on my classic.

I have just changed out another 2 of the shade motors from United to MCD (12 motors so far). This time the drivers shades. The drivers night and day shades were wired from the motors up into a small hole that was actually under the shade assembly (when installed).

The motor wires went up into a cavity where the connections must have been made. I know I can drop the front padded "under panel" but I also note that in the passenger side overhead cabinet there is a thin carpeted plywood panel. The panel is vertical and appears to cover a cavity. I pulled a bit on it to see if it was Velcroed into place. No luck there. I also looked behind the TV with a flashlight, no apparent access panel there.

Anyone know if there is a panel of some type that can be removed to allow me access to the cavity where the wires run? I would rather not drop the padded under panel on the passenger side if I don't have to.

I have the shade assembly down with the new motors installed, time to put it back up.

I have searched the forum with no success. Thanks in advance for any help !

[RayandWendy]

You should just be able to pull some extra wire out to do the splicing and push it back up after you're done. I dilone it 3 times so far for front shades.

Later...
Ray

[NowGo]

Originally Posted by RayandWendy

You should just be able to pull some extra wire out to do the splicing and push it back up after you're done. I dilone it 3 times so far for front shades.

Later...
Ray

Hi Ray

3 times! Yikes, I hope I don't have to do that.

I have pulled some extra wire down and I can for sure splice, probably using butt connectors if I do it that way. But I plan to put connectors that I can plug and unplug in case I should I ever have to change motors again.

So, I thought if there was an access panel I would go that route, making the connections up in the cavity. If not I will install the connectors right next to the assembly, tie a little extra wire up neatly with them, then push the extra back up into the cavity.

Craig

[jmorse1]

Originally Posted by NowGo

I am trying to determine if there is an access panel in the overhead TV/cabinet wiring cavity on my classic.

I have just changed out another 2 of the shade motors from United to MCD (12 motors so far). This time the drivers shades. The drivers night and day shades were wired from the motors up into a small hole that was actually under the shade assembly (when installed).

The motor wires went up into a cavity where the connections must have been made. I know I can drop the front padded "under panel" but I also note that in the passenger side overhead cabinet there is a thin carpeted plywood panel. The panel is vertical and appears to cover a cavity. I pulled a bit on it to see if it was Velcroed into place. No luck there. I also looked behind the TV with a flashlight, no apparent access panel there.

Anyone know if there is a panel of some type that can be removed to allow me access to the cavity where the wires run? I would rather not drop the padded under panel on the passenger side if I don't have to.

I have the shade assembly down with the new motors installed, time to put it back up.

I have searched the forum with no success. Thanks in advance for any help !

I am currently working in the same area in my 2015 44b....I was unable to gain access from inside the overhead tv cabinets and had to pull the padded panels. They were a pain to reinstall by myself and I suggest using two people . One to hold the panel in position while the other places the screws....
I have mcd motorized day/night shades in the windshield only and all other are manual. My purpose for accessing the area was to beef up the padded panels structurally so they will hold the screws that secure the mcd blinds to the panels...the original padded panels are 1/2 junk plywood covered with vinyl. They don't provide any real structure while banging down the highway! I replaced the panel at the drivers window entirely with a 3/4 inch oak board and now attached the mcd directly to that. In front, the padded panels received 3/4 oak blocks glued at the mcd screw locations so longer, beefier screws can take a good bite. While in the cavity I also changed all the front clearance lights as you really need to get access to the back of the light as well as the front.

Hope this helps!

John
2015 44b Aspire

[NowGo]

Originally Posted by jmorse1

I am currently working in the same area in my 2015 44b....I was unable to gain access from inside the overhead tv cabinets and had to pull the padded panels. They were a pain to reinstall by myself and I suggest using two people . One to hold the panel in position while the other places the screws....
I have mcd motorized day/night shades in the windshield only and all other are manual. My purpose for accessing the area was to beef up the padded panels structurally so they will hold the screws that secure the mcd blinds to the panels...the original padded panels are 1/2 junk plywood covered with vinyl. They don't provide any real structure while banging down the highway! I replaced the panel at the drivers window entirely with a 3/4 inch oak board and now attached the mcd directly to that. In front, the padded panels received 3/4 oak blocks glued at the mcd screw locations so longer, beefier screws can take a good bite. While in the cavity I also changed all the front clearance lights as you really need to get access to the back of the light as well as the front.

Hope this helps!

John
2015 44b Aspire

Thanks for the reply John.

I do plan to upsize the screws to #10 if the #8s are at all loose when I reinstall. Your upgrade sounds like the way to go but I am not that ambitious at this point. Might have to later, as the roads are unbelievably rough these days, especially the Interstates in my opinion.

As to the front markers, when I do need to do that I plan to just cut a 1/4" hole into the rubber "gasket" with a craft knife (I think Brobox suggested that in another post). From what I understand the rubber "gasket" used by Entegra is installed and sealed from the back, making removal and reinstallation of that gasket from the front near impossible. I will be changing out all rear markers over the next week or so and I plan to cut out a square "plug", then wire up and seal the small area where the wires go through. I'll see how that works out.

I am tempted to try to remove the 4" or so covered 1/4" plywood in the passenger side overhead cabinet, but I don't want to break it while doing so and I am not sure about trying that. If I can get it removed I will have access to that cavity. Then I will install Velcro the panel and I will have something that is removable in the future.

Thanks again for your post.

Craig

[brobox]

On my 14, I just pulled the wires out enough to splice the motor wire, the push them back in the hole. I staggered the wire splices so both wire nuts were not going in the hole at the same time.

[jmorse1]

On my '15 the clearance lights were installed with what appears to be the same material as the roof seam sealant. This "plug" was more then 1 inch thick.There was NO flexibility at all
for removing the light. I had to break the lights out just to expose the plug. I clipped the wires flush with the plug on both outside and in ,then drilled a 1/4 in hole thru the center of the plug to run the new wires. Butyl tape and black silicon caulk makes it reasonably waterproof...

[NowGo]

Gave up on the overhead access concept. Wired in 2 bullet style quick connects. Connected them, then I laid them in the front channel that Gary mentioned in another post, covered the channel and wires with wide black electrical tape (can't see wires or connectors), then pushed the extra wire back up into the cavity.

If I have to do this again I can put bullet style connectors on the new motors on the workbench, then just have to plug them in when putting the assembly up again.

John I did have to upsize 4 or the wood screws to #10. I agree the manufacturer has used a pretty unsubstantial securement method. While searching the forum before posting this topic I did see a post where someone said the assembly actually fell while travelling on the road. That would be a shocker.

I have 2 more motors on order from MCD for entry door.

For now on to the rear marker light replacements.